Bringing my Dad's American Flyer back to life

[ChopperCharles]

My father died a few years ago, and left me the American Flyer trains he played with in his youth. Instead of allowing them to languish in a box, I'm building a layout around the ceiling of my library. (I'm actually renovating the room and building floor-to-almost-ceiling bookshelves, and running the train around the top).

I have a few questions about AF though. I have a transformer, but how do I hook this up to the track? The HO and N gauge stuff I have uses special connectors, but I haven't found anything like that online, or in the box of track and rolling stock that Dad left me.

Can you tell me anything about the locomotives I have? The Diesel is a 374, and the steam engine is a 21085. The tender for the steam locomotive has the coupler broken off at the base of the truck... is there a place I can order a replacement truck?

I need track... a lot of the track is rusted, and there are quite a few that are twisted or bent. The locos and tenders were wrapped in newspaper and packaged more or less well... the track was just thrown in a box and smooshed under other stuff in the attic. :( :(

I really need 19" radius curves, so i can keep the track as close to the wall as possible in the corners. Can I use k-line, or am I going to have to find original track? I don't want the wood ties, I want to stick with the original style.

This project made me dig out all my old n-scale stuff and now I'm considering building a layout into an Ikea glass-top coffee table to finish off the room! I forgot how much fun this is... :)

Charles.

[Reckers]

Choppercharles, welcome to the forum! I'm glad to see you're going to restore your father's American Flyer equipment back to running condition.

First, let's talk track. Unless your dad used sandpaper on the original track, it may simply need a good cleaning. AF plated their track with nickel silver to enhance conductivity---sandpaper should never even come into the same room as your track! The best cleaning I've found is to go to Walmart and buy GooGone (automotive), Isopropyl alcohol, 90% or better, and a Scotchbrite plastic scrubbing pad. Scrub it down with GooGone and the pad, then wipe it down with a paper towel or soft cloth wetted with the alcohol.
I can't answer your question about K-line, having never used it, but the original track is still available on Ebay and any train store that handles American Flyer stuff. You can pretty easily twist the old stuff back into shape unless it's bent to the point of getting the rail crimped.

Ebay is also a good source for a device to connect your transformer wires to your track, as is your Local Hobby Shop(LHS), i.e., the nearest American Flyer train store. You can also use alligator clips to temporarily fill the bill, solder the wires to the track for a permanent hookup, or carefully pry the rail open (seam underneath) and wedge the wires into the rails.

Replacement couplers come from the same sources; you can also order parts from a parts supplier. I'm partial to Port Line:

Port Lines Hobby Supplieswww.portlines.com/
Specialists in American Flyer trains and S-gauge model railroading.

6 Storeybrook Drive Newburyport, MA 01950-3408
(978) 465-8798


Your 374 is a GP-7; you can read about the real thing here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EMD_GP7

Your steamer is a Pacific, manufactured between 1958 and 1963 by American Flyer. It's a nice one with smoke and chuff sound: you need to buy some smoke fluid so as not to burn out the smoke unit by running it dry. LHS has it, and any brand will do. Here are a couple of reference sites:


http://www.trainweb.org/s-trains/FAQ/locospecs.html

http://www.americanflyerexpress.com/American-Flyer-Express/American-Flyer-Express-Pages/American-Flyer-Products-Directory/Steam-Locomotives/american-flyer-products-directory-steam-locomotives-01.htm

http://myflyertrains.org/gallery/GilbertFactoryManual

http://www.portlines.com/afrepairclinics.htm

Best wishes on your new addiction, and post some pics for us! You'll find lots of people on this site will want to help you get up and running as well as solving any repair issues.

Best wishes,

[ChopperCharles]

What is LHS? Unfortunately the coupler itself is not the problem, it's the arm that the coupler attached to. It was broken off completely, and I need to replace the entire rear truck assembly. I've found a site that lists the parts here: http://www.hobbysurplus.com/xviews/280spacHSS.asp but they have a $20 minimum order and frankly the site is such a hot mess I'm unable to find anything else to buy to make up the difference.

Also... same with portlines. it looks like the site was built in 1996, and I can't see any way to actually order anything.

thanks for the info though!

Charles.

[Nuttin But Flyer]

Chopper Charles --

LHS is simply an acronym for your Local Hobby Store. However, you might find more variety if you go to a local train show/flea market. I have found literally hundreds of the original items and parts at those and the prices are similar to that of Local Hobby Stores. The only difference would be the cover charge to enter the event. Welcome to the forum.

[Reckers]

Charles, do you have a camera with which you can upload a good picture of the truck? I just bought some parts at a train show and it's possible I'll have one like it. You're going to find you have an insatiable desire to buy assortments of random parts, just in case you might need something, someday.

[tjcruiser]

Charles,

Reckers is one of our our resident S gurus. Great info/advice from him, above.

I just wanted to chime in and offer an enthusiastic thumbs-up for your plan to resurrect your father's trains and incorporate them into the library build. History and family legacy, all bundled together! Do keep us posted with pics.

TJ

[flyernut]

Charles Lionel makes a "lock-on" for both flyer and 3-rail. I believe it's a one thing fits all. The truck for your tender is available at quite a few places, but be sure you get the truck assembly bushings. They are a must have for installing the truck.PortLines is great, and I do a lot of business with them. CALL them during their open hours, they're great to deal with. For track, ebay is the place if you want original, also train shows. Aftermarket track is available, and I highly recommend GarGraves Track!!

[ChopperCharles]

Okay, here are some photos of the most difficult turn in the layout. I'm going to need a small bridge for the corner... I toyed with creating a curved insert but really didn't have much luck with it.

Overview of the wall:
http://choppercharles.com/photos/train4.jpg

From the floor:
http://choppercharles.com/photos/train1.jpg

Eye level with the train:
http://choppercharles.com/photos/train2.jpg

Truck with missing coupler:
http://choppercharles.com/photos/train3.jpg

Charles.

[santafe158]

I think Lionel still makes the old style American Flyer track along with their new "Fastrack" style track.

[big ed]

Welcome to the site, Reckers ( The KING OF S ) already said it all.
And if he didn't, he will.:D

One suggestion, that is a long drop to the floor.
You might want to think about some kind of guard rail to keep those classics from taking a plunge to the floor.

You going to tunnel the rail all through out the house in different rooms?:D:thumbsup:

Just cut out a little corner piece (block) and add it up there where the curve is.

[Reckers]

Charles, I've got the truck on one of the pieces I picked up at a train show, recently. I assume, from the pics, you aren't actually running the layout yet. If you can be patient with me, I'll drill out the rivet to cut the truck loose this weekend. PM me your mailing address. Oh, and I sometimes get forgetful---if you haven't had an email from me by the end of the weekend saying it's coming, nag me like an ex-wife. I won't mind it and it will keep me on track, if you'll pardon the pun.

Best wishes,

[ChopperCharles]

I need to get soem kind of solid MDF and cut a curve in it, or make two half curves out of a 2x8 with a miter cut, so that the grain goes with the curve on both sides. I've tried the latter, I just need to do it a couple more times until I get it right. Thing is it's going to be kind of a big curve insert... makes the shelf look a little hokey I think. Ah well, I will think of something.

Charles.

[ChopperCharles]

Okay, so some questions. I cleaned the electrical pickup wheels on the tender and... how do I get the 21085 to go the other direction? Swapping the wires on the track doesn't do it... the 374 has a switch at the bottom which I assume is for the direction, but I haven't finished cleaning it up so it will run yet. (No idea what that little thing is that rides on the rail between the drive wheels is on the 374 either)

The 21085 also... buzzes a lot. It moves, but not slowly, and it makes a bunch of brrttzzz noises.

Charles.

[santafe158]

I need to get soem kind of solid MDF and cut a curve in it, or make two half curves out of a 2x8 with a miter cut, so that the grain goes with the curve on both sides. I've tried the latter, I just need to do it a couple more times until I get it right. Thing is it's going to be kind of a big curve insert... makes the shelf look a little hokey I think. Ah well, I will think of something.

Charles.


Just cut a triangle and mount it in that corner. It won't stick out as much as a big curve and will serve the same purpose.

[flyernut]

Okay, so some questions. I cleaned the electrical pickup wheels on the tender and... how do I get the 21085 to go the other direction? Swapping the wires on the track doesn't do it... the 374 has a switch at the bottom which I assume is for the direction, but I haven't finished cleaning it up so it will run yet. (No idea what that little thing is that rides on the rail between the drive wheels is on the 374 either)

The 21085 also... buzzes a lot. It moves, but not slowly, and it makes a bunch of brrttzzz noises.

Charles.

Your 21085 has the reverse unit in the cab, and those can be finicky at best. I suggest a good clean-up. Swapping the wires on the track will do nothing, as you found out.I believe the reverse unit is dirty, or the fingers are not contacting the drum for forward. What I have done in the past is cycle the unit until it should be going forward, and using a toothpick or something that is not conductible, push the fingers against the drum. I've seen fingers that I swore were touching were actually not touching!.

[flyernut]

About your 374. According to my service manual for flyer, the 374 is a engine that uses a second engine in combo,a 375. The 375 should be the power unit with air chime, and the 374 would be a dummy engine, with headlights. My manual shows the wiring diagram for the 374 with just lights, while the wiring diagram for the 375 shows the whistle, and single motor. Now I could be wrong, and probably are, but it's just a thought.

[ChopperCharles]

Okay, not a pic of mine... this is from eBay. The 374 is on the top. You can see the extra little doohickeys that contact the track between each set of pickup wheels.

Well, a little testing and all they appear to be are additional contacts to make electrical connection. I think they're lead, as they're rather soft. I'm missing one sideplate with that connector, but the loco still appears to operate. It's supposed to have a horn, no idea how to make it blow though. And also... that switch, as far as I can tell, doesn't do anything. It's definitely not a reverse switch.

Charles.

[ChopperCharles]

err, her'es teh pic: http://i.ebayimg.com/t/American-Flyer-374-375-Texas-Pacific-GP-9s-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/$(KGrHqNHJDkE63Zd!7UnBO8pQPeq,Q~~60_3.JPG

The 374 I have is most definitely a powered loco. Just got it running...

Okay... so I come from HO and N. You're going to have to explain to me how reverse is SUPPOSED to work.

Charles

[flyernut]

I have 1 engine with the reverse in the cab, and it's a nightmare sometimes. It's an Atlantic, cab # 21105. I have the entire set, but I don't run it because of the finicky reverse unit. I have the early versions of your 21085,(283), and they are wonderful engines.

[ChopperCharles]

WHAT IS A REVERSE UNIT?!? I'm really lost here guys.

[flyernut]

The reverse works like this... power on, the drum cycles to neutral...power off, then on, the drum cycles to either forward or reverse...power off then on, the drum goes to neutral...power off, then on, the drum goes to forward or reverse, depending on how/when you cut power originally..On your pictures, it appears the bottom engine is the dummy, top is the power unit as I can see the motor.I believe the small metal "buttons" in between the wheels are the power pick-ups for the whistle(?)I'm probably wrong again, as I've only have 3 diesels in my stable, 2 355's and a Santa Fe with dual motors. And I can't seem to remember what the heck those things are for, darn it...

[ChopperCharles]

Okay, well neither engine does anything like that. So I guess I'll be tearing them apart too, instead of just cleaning the wheels and hoping for the best :D

The diesel runs smooth when power is applied... the coal... it "lurches" at low power inputs, feels like something is binding, and it buzzes a lot and I feel the wheels should be turning faster based on the input power... so I'm going to have to take it apart and clean and lube everything I think.

Charles.

[flyernut]

I believe the reverse unit on your Pacific will cycle differently than on the diesels. It will go from forward to reverse by powering down and then powering up. There's no neutral on that one. The diesels get they power from the track through the wheels.

[flyernut]

Okay, well neither engine does anything like that. So I guess I'll be tearing them apart too, instead of just cleaning the wheels and hoping for the best :D

The diesel runs smooth when power is applied... the coal... it "lurches" at low power inputs, feels like something is binding, and it buzzes a lot and I feel the wheels should be turning faster based on the input power... so I'm going to have to take it apart and clean and lube everything I think.

Charles.

That will be your best bet.You will need a controller to operate your whistle.

[flyernut]

Okay, well neither engine does anything like that. So I guess I'll be tearing them apart too, instead of just cleaning the wheels and hoping for the best :D

The diesel runs smooth when power is applied... the coal... it "lurches" at low power inputs, feels like something is binding, and it buzzes a lot and I feel the wheels should be turning faster based on the input power... so I'm going to have to take it apart and clean and lube everything I think.

Charles.

That buzzing noise you hear could very well be your whistle. I have 2 b units with whistle, and a K335 Northern with air chime, and when they're running, you can hear noises or a buzzing coming from them.

[ChopperCharles]

no, this is an electric motor buzzing. Like a cheap drill that can't quite turn a long wood screw, "this is too much for me to take" buzzing. Time to disassemble and clean.

Can you clue me in on a whistle controller? What are they, what are they called, how do they work, and all that jazz? I'm a complete S-gauge noob. My only train knowledge is HO and N, and there was nothing like that.

Charles.

[ChopperCharles]

Okay, important questions:

1) What does the switch on the bottom of the 374 powered locomotive do?
2) Where is the reversing unit on the 374 powered locomotive, and how do I fix it?
3) How do I get the powered locomotive to blow the horn/whistle?
4) Where can I get a replacement truck sideplate/pickup for this loco?
5) What do I fix to get it to reverse?

For the 21085.... fixed the reverse doohickey with some contact cleaner, fixed the poor speed and struggling issue by cleaning the black soot off the armature. Chug-chug and smoke works! Gears are noisy, need to be lubed I think. The one I thought would be difficult was easy, now the diesel needs fixed :/

[ChopperCharles]

Yay, lubed up the 21085 and it makes significantly less noise now. It's not completely gone, and it's still pretty loud - the motor noise is louder than the chug-chug noise when the loco is just barely moving. But... wow, cleaning and lubricating made a huge difference. Reverse works, forward works, chug works, smoke works... but of course, things aren't perfect. This *is* me we're talking about.

It seems like after I unscrewed all the screws holding it together... now every single hole that mounts the body to the chassis is stripped! Hoping some CA glue will fix the threads.... unless you guys have better ideas?

Still not sure what's up with the diesel loco....

It's interesting, the 21085 has a switch that prevents the loco from switching direction. get it going forward, flip the switch, and it will never go in reverse. I wonder if that's what the switch on the bottom of the diesel is for as well...

Charles.

[ChopperCharles]

Okay. So, the diesel required a lot more work. That is a "don't change directions bro" switch on the bottom. After much cleaning and lubricating, the diesel works very nicely again! The reversing isn't perfect, but it's damn near good enough for me.

So all i need to know now is how to make the whistles go off.

Charles.

[Reckers]

Charles, I haven't spent much time on diesels---I run primarily steamers. Give this a look, though and it might help.

http://www.portlines.com/portlinesclinic21.htm

http://myflyertrains.org/gallery/album214?page=1
http://myflyertrains.org/gallery/album214?page=2

[flyernut]

This is the whistle controller.It has a base and a removable "generator" on top. These are available on ebay all the time, and usually they come as a 1 piece deal. The generator can be rebuilt, but off-hand I forgot who does it. Port Lines might and also LBR Enterprises are great... And for a guy who doesn't know much on flyer, I think you under estimate yourself.. Good luck, and I hope I haven't confused you....Loren

[ChopperCharles]

Cool, that's great info. I will pick one of those up!

Charles

[flyernut]

Charles, I just returned from GarGraves Trackage Corp., and I asked about the flyer track. One of the owners, Mike, jumped on his computer and located 2 distributors who still have new flyer track. He can get 10" straight, and also the 30" straight, but none of the curves. If you'd like, the phone number for GarGraves is 1-315-483-6577, and you can ask for Mike. They are great people, trust me.If you do talk to Mike, tell him Loren told you about the flyer track. Maybe he can help you a little.. Hope this helps....Loren

[ChopperCharles]

Well, I got my two locomovites working again... briefly. The 21085 needs work. Pretty much every screw in the body is stripped, but specifically the ones that hold the front of the wheel linkage thingies (I'm not sure what they're called), so after about a half hour of running the screws backed out and klunkity-klunkity-derail. The little rubber "tires" on one wheel keep coming off too. They're both pretty loose... can I get replacements?

The diesel runs normally in reverse, but forward it strains and will randomly just stop - especially if it gets to a slightly less than perfectly clean section of track. I've read a little about this, I have to reface the armature. Not sure HOW to do that though... anyone got a youtube vid? Diesel also seems prone to derailing when traveling forward, but not in reverse. At least, without cars attached.

Finally... man I've cleaned and cleaned and cleaned that track with #000 steel wool, but that train FLIES on the new track, and then goes significantly slower on the old track. When it nears the area with the power connected, it speeds up... and on some track it will go extremely slow, no matter how much I clean it. It's driving me nuts, making me think I need to just buy all new stuff, period.

Charles.

[flyernut]

Well, I got my two locomovites working again... briefly. The 21085 needs work. Pretty much every screw in the body is stripped, but specifically the ones that hold the front of the wheel linkage thingies (I'm not sure what they're called), so after about a half hour of running the screws backed out and klunkity-klunkity-derail. The little rubber "tires" on one wheel keep coming off too. They're both pretty loose... can I get replacements?

The diesel runs normally in reverse, but forward it strains and will randomly just stop - especially if it gets to a slightly less than perfectly clean section of track. I've read a little about this, I have to reface the armature. Not sure HOW to do that though... anyone got a youtube vid? Diesel also seems prone to derailing when traveling forward, but not in reverse. At least, without cars attached.

Finally... man I've cleaned and cleaned and cleaned that track with #000 steel wool, but that train FLIES on the new track, and then goes significantly slower on the old track. When it nears the area with the power connected, it speeds up... and on some track it will go extremely slow, no matter how much I clean it. It's driving me nuts, making me think I need to just buy all new stuff, period.

Charles.
NEVER,NEVER, clean track with STEEL WOOL!!! And don't use sandpaper.. Use a green or red scotch brite pad, or a bright boy. I like the bright boy.
You need to wire jumpers in various sections of the track. Just get a couple more lock-ons and run wires to them from the original lock-on. You're getting a power loss in those sections of track.
Use crazy glue to fix the rubber tires. Just be sure all grease/oil is removed from the surfaces.
To fix the stripped holes, sometimes I just put in JB Weld into the holes, and redrill. On other occasions I put a piece of wire into the stripped out hole, and leave it dangle over the edge of the hole. Just put in your screw and tighten. Or you can use a piece of toothpick.
I've never refaced an armature for a diesel, but I suppose you can chuck it up in a drill and spin it, holding a piece of 2000 grit against it.
I have 2 355 diesel switchers that can be a bear sometimes. I believe the derailing going forward can be attributed to a fast start or jerky start. The torque of the motor can pull the wheels off the rail, at least I've seen this with mine.

[Reckers]

Charles, here is the logic for the no-steel-wool, no-sandpaper rule.

1. Steel wool tends to have steel fibers break off, teeny little filaments that are perfect for magnets to lift into your electric motors and gnaw away at all that you hold sacred. It will collect in crevices around your track and await your passing trains like a hobo in the night.
2. Both steel wool and sandpaper will scratch the nickel-silver plating on your rails or the metal core of your rails. Ever notice how touching two transformer wires together will create a spark, and the spark leaves a carbon spot? This occurs when a connection is made and broken. Perfectly smooth rails and perfectly smooth wheels create an electrical connection that never breaks: they are always in contact. Introduce dirt, gunk and scratches and you begin to see sparks as your locomotive rolls past. Every spark leaves a carbon spot that insulates and bakes on any oil or grease. Sanding scratches the rails minutely, a zillion micro-scratches that each creates it's own tiny spark and soot. Sanding is an investment in your future: you ensure hours of additional track-cleaning to remove all that stuff, over and over. A Scotchbrite with Googone will take the soot and gunk off; a followup wipe with isopropyl alcohol will remove the residue of Googone and disolved gunk. And ethanol rewards you for your efforts.

[AF296]

Hi Charles: I just joined today.. Congrads on digging out dads old Flyer.. If I may give you a few suggestions on a few things I've read in your reply. The 21085 has a pikemaster coupler. I see there was some reference to Flyinel. I've been collecting flyer for 30+ yrs, and doing repairs and service for better than 20. I can tell you some nightmares about the current stuff, but being a newcommer I don't want to step on any toe's. Postwar trains were build when there was a certain level of pride in a product, no matter what it was. Today we live in a throw away world... Postwar trains have been around for 70 yrs. and still very fixable to be around for another 70... Enough on that topic.. I also see from your pictures, you are building a permitter wall layout. And your trying to build something to make your radius. I've spent much time developing truss bridges for this application. If your interested let me know..

[ChopperCharles]

I'm nearing completion on my layout, I have one custom bridge to build still... but in all honesty, I do need one 20" curve truss bridge. I hacked something together, but it doesn't look particularly good.

Charles.

[Reckers]

Let's see some pictures!

[ChopperCharles]

Soon! Once I've got all the track up. The detailing and structures will come later, but I will post pics (and a video!) once the track is all up.

Charles.

[ChopperCharles]

Okay, maybe one pic....
http://choppercharles.com/photos/trains/bridges.jpg

Charles.

[Aflyer]

Charles,
Very nice looking room. I like your shelf layout, and the bridges over the windows is a nice look.
Congratulations on all your progress!!
George

[ChopperCharles]

Thanks. I built all the shelves myself, except for the piers over the window. Those were hanging shelf units from Home Depot. They need some reinforcement and adjustment (they're not entirely level front to back, I need a couple of shims). Trim still needs primer and paint, and I have one bridge left to build. Then I can lay all of the track. I will be building some storefronts on foam board, as well as a shipping dock and industrial center, and some other details you can see from the ground. nothing special, going to keep it simple.

Charles.

[ChopperCharles]

Also, because I'm a GIANT dork:
http://choppercharles.com/photos/trains/delorean.jpg

Modified a 1:64 scale Back to the Future delorean with HO wheels. The wheels were off a tyco train, and had big "pizza cutter" flanges, which works well on the American Flyer track. The axle was metal, so all I did was pull the wheels out on the axle. I modified the car chassis for the bigger axle and worked some magic in there, and I can push this thing around my track easily. It only has a problem with one switch so far - it's a 720 I think, the switch part is about 1mm or so higher than the rails, which sometimes causes the delorean to derail. But only sometimes, it usually navigates it fine!

Did I mention I'm a dork?

Charles.

[tjcruiser]

Ha ha ... I like the Delorean. We had a fun one here:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2219

Nice work on the ceiling layout. I was intrigued by your book shelves in your earlier photos. They seem to be 'floating' without any midspan support over quite a long span. How did you fasten their edge to the wall?

Cheers,

TJ

[ChopperCharles]

This is how the shelves work:

These are links because the images are huuuuuge.

5/8" lag bolts screwed into the wall every 32":
http://choppercharles.com/photos/shelves/IMGP9997.JPG

Cut heads off of lag bolts, then hit them with a hammer until they're perfectly square with the wall (in this case, I wacked it to the left):
http://choppercharles.com/photos/shelves/IMGP0001.JPG

Then drill holes in the back of a 2x8 that line up exactly with the lag bolts in the wall. This is actually easy, just set the board on top of the lag bolts, and then mark the underside with a pencil. Then drill the holes using a drill press so they're perfectly square. Slide board onto lag bolts. (and by slide, I mean "beat the shit out of it with a hammer until it's finally against the wall"). Now screw it to the wall every 32", between the lag bolts. This keeps it from walking off the wall with vibration or settling.

How strong are the shelves? This strong:
http://choppercharles.com/photos/shelves/IMGP0021.JPG

Charles.

[ChopperCharles]

Those are on the right wall as you walk in. On the left wall, I've created two bookcases, separated by the window. This is the first one:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/404508_3241907455096_1489128093_33059059_113543841 1_n.jpg

It's a more traditional design than the floating shelves... the floating shelves were a ***** to do. These went together much faster. I wanted the focal point to be the floating shelves, but didn't want to overdo it, and these looked nicer with sides on them. This also allowed me to make them adjustable, so I can have DVDs or later remove a shelf or two and change the spacing for books instead.

Charles.

[ChopperCharles]

Here's construction of the last bookcase:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/407537_3299437813319_1489128093_33078634_481010000 _n.jpg

This bookcase has a long span of shelves that are unsupported in the middle. Since I'm using 2x8's I didn't think it would really be a problem, but just in case I attached a piece of 1-inch angle iron, 1/8" thick, on the back of each shelf. Screwed it in to the back and to the bottom of the shelf every 12 inches, there's no way those shelves are going to sag.

Charles.

[ChopperCharles]

Here is a good shot of the floating shelves all finished and nice looking:

http://choppercharles.com/photos/shelves/floating_shelves.jpg

And here's a shot of the other wall, completed with the built-in stereo cabinet as well:

http://choppercharles.com/photos/shelves/stereo_wall.jpg

Charles.

[gunrunnerjohn]

You need more electronic reading material, you're getting overloaded with paper! :D

[tjcruiser]

Charles,

That "floating" shelf system is totally unconventional, but very, very clever. Nice pics / description. The resulting "look" really baffles the mind, especially with the significant weight load.

Most people wouldn't use 2x8 for shelving, of course ... 1-by veneer ply or MDF is more common ... but your finished product looks great. I like the "beefy" edge thickness.

I hope that wall with the 5/8" lag bolts is a non-structural partition wall. I'm sure the holes for the bolts (along with some likely wood splitting in the studs in way of the bolts) compromises their strength a bit.

As I said ... totally unconventional ... but a really nice look!

TJ

[ChopperCharles]

I pre-drilled all holes for the lag bolts, so there should be no wood splitting. That's the reason I had to whack the bolts to get them square... can't use a drill press on a wall so I drilled the holes as straight as I could by eyeballing it. This is an upstairs room, no load on the wall.

I don't like 1-by veneer ply. I don't like MDF. I wanted wood shelving, but hardwood didn't come in the dimensions I wanted or at a price I considered reasonable. It is important to me that the shelves be strong, and last forever. So many floating shelf kits out there are weak and pathetic and sag terribly with any weight at all (*ahem* like the ones I put under my bridges. Crappy Home Depot shelf with a piss-poor design). I also wanted the big beefy edge, and really to do floating shelves of this magnitude and strength it was the only way I could come up with. I carried that over to the other shelves as well, just because I wanted to continue the same theme. Plus the stereo cabinet part was another big design issue - it had to be strong enough to hold a bunch of stereo equipment, attached to the wall so that walking through the room won't disturb the turntable, and strong enough so that if some moron decides to use it for a chair it doesn't collapse.

BTW, the floating shelves are completely my own design, I'm an engineer and it just seemed the right way.

Charles.

[tjcruiser]

Again, very nice.

I've seen people do a somewhat similar thing using hanger lag bolts (wood threads on one end, machine threads on the other, with no head). The underside of each bolt-hole location on the shelf has an open pocket where you can insert a nut, and then turn that on the hanger bolt to really tighten the whole shelf to the wall.

Just tossin' out a variation of what you've done for others to consider.

Cheers,

TJ

[ChopperCharles]

Heh, if I ever sell my house, and the owner decides to demo the shelves...I will feel sorry for him...

Charles.

[big ed]

Heh, if I ever sell my house, and the owner decides to demo the shelves...I will feel sorry for him...

Charles.


Now you have to get rid of the books and fill those shelves with old classic trains.:p

So your the one bidding against me for bridges?:D

Nice looking room.:thumbsup:

[ChopperCharles]

"you're". :D Not anymore, I got the four Lionel bridges for just over $100 on eBay a few weeks ago. I'm building a custom bridge for the last span, because there aren't any 44" long bridges on eBay :)

Charles.

[big ed]

"you're". :D Not anymore, I got the four Lionel bridges for just over $100 on eBay a few weeks ago. I'm building a custom bridge for the last span, because there aren't any 44" long bridges on eBay :)

Charles.


Sure there are, I have seen some.
Custom made stainless steel.....NOT CHEAP.

Beside being a train addict, I am also a bridge addict.
Some of my bridges, http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=8263

I still keep an eye open for them on e bay.:D