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View Full Version : What is the best board to build the train set on


youngie72
12-17-2007, 08:11 PM
I am new at this model train hobby. I am wondering what is the best material ie timber board to buy to set up my HO model train set. What is the best or recommended size to start with especially if you want to allow for expansion later down the track.

Greenbrier
12-18-2007, 08:38 AM
The best thing to do is pick up one of many magazines at the hobby shop, Modelrailroader has a book called Form set to Scenery, This is a great starter book as it covers everything relativly easy & fast.
Good luck

tworail
12-18-2007, 05:20 PM
1/2 plywood seems to be the happy medium, but I would look for the material called 'homasote' (made of recycled egg cartons) which is far superior, although it would probably need some framing work.

http://www.homasote.com/

eagle37
12-29-2007, 07:23 PM
1/2 plywood seems to be the happy medium, but I would look for the material called 'homasote' (made of recycled egg cartons) which is far superior, although it would probably need some framing work.

http://www.homasote.com/


Advice from a retiring woodworker: be cautious with homosote. It would be fine for gluing down stuff but it doesn't hold fasteners like screws and nails as well as plywood or wood.

Edward

XavierJ123
12-29-2007, 09:12 PM
A think a beginner can't go wrong with a standard piece of 4 X 8 3/4 inch plywood with 4 X 8 piece of styrfoam on top. You can cut it smaller if you don't have space to begin with and you can expand it later on if desired. Also, start without grades to contend with; keep all your track mounted flat on the plywood. The first thing to learn is set-up and reliability of running your train, adding scenery, etc

eagle37
12-30-2007, 05:21 PM
[QUOTE=XavierJ123]A think a beginner can't go wrong with a standard piece of 4 X 8 3/4 inch plywood with 4 X 8 piece of styrfoam on top.

Why the styrofoam?

Edward

Boston&Maine
12-30-2007, 05:37 PM
Why the styrofoam?

Edward

You can mold it and plane it creating small hills and valleys, giving you different grades...

XavierJ123
01-01-2008, 04:17 PM
Yep, and you can plant trees real easy too. Just stick the trunk of the small HO tree into the styrofoam and "walla"! It's sure a lot easier than digging a hole in the wood and you don't even have to water the tree. You glue the styrofoam to the plywood with latex chalk, stack more pieces of it to make mountains with tunnels etc. Remember, the earth is not flat and neither is your back yard.

Lakemasseriarailroad
01-11-2008, 02:47 PM
1/2 inch particle board isnt that had and it holds nails paints well and you get a nice "clickity clack" on it

XavierJ123
01-11-2008, 07:51 PM
I don't like particle board because it is too hard to cut/saw and hard to hammer a nail into----but to each is own. It dulls my table saw blade. You could always try it and see if you like it.

cpfan
01-23-2008, 03:08 PM
In days gone by (I'm just thinking about returning to the hobby), some people used an interior grade door. With luck you could get the right size that has been damaged for a good price. Then glue the styrofoam or homosote or whatever on top to allow you to create some depth in your scenery.

Model Railroader has published some nice layout plans designed to fit on a door. (Note I just bought my first MR in 7 years or more.)

Steve

paulney
01-24-2008, 03:23 AM
I got a back issue of Atlas "HO layouts for every space" today. It has a section on turnout switching machines. The section mentions that the total height of the board _and_ roadbed has to be no more than one inch, because otherwise 'under the table' switching machine won't be able to reach the bar on the turnout, and won't be able to switch it.

Is this still true?

Thanks.

tworail
02-13-2008, 12:13 AM
I got a back issue of Atlas "HO layouts for every space" today. It has a section on turnout switching machines. The section mentions that the total height of the board _and_ roadbed has to be no more than one inch, because otherwise 'under the table' switching machine won't be able to reach the bar on the turnout, and won't be able to switch it.

Is this still true?

Thanks.

Yeah because the pin attached to the switch machine is only so high (1") so you can't exceed that otherwise it won't connect with the turnout.

HOtrainz
02-27-2008, 01:19 PM
How would medium density fiberboard work? (MDF)

tworail
02-27-2008, 01:38 PM
Poorly.

It's very heavy and does not absorb and vibration. It's also more difficult to work with, as it crumbles easier when using screws or cutting with a saw. It's also not readily available in anything other that sheets. If you want to set something up temporarily on it, go for it, but otherwise leave it for the IKEA furniture :p

My vote is to use 1/2 inch plywood with a roadbed of homasote or cork. Use a selection of 1x2, 1x4, 1x6 if you are building open girder benchwork.