View Full Version : Pikemaster Trucks - replace
T-Man
10-06-2010, 11:08 AM
Since the S guys are too busy building their layouts, let me show you this.
I reuse the old rivet to change out the truck. Cutting with a wheel will generate too much heat and the truck will melt off.
I start with a pair of needlle nose and work the edges of the small end of the rivet.
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/AF/IMG_4391.jpg
When I am ready I pry it off with a screwdriver. If I feel it move I apply pressure otherwise I go back to the needlenose. You have to make sure you grab both halves of the truck when you lift. I used a larger screwdriver than shown it was easier to snap the picture.
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/AF/IMG_4392.jpg
To install, the small side goes up. I use a flared center punch to round the inside of the rivet.
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/AF/IMG_4395.jpg
Next I use a rounded punch to work the edges. I place a long socket underneath for support.
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/AF/IMG_4394.jpg
To finish ,I have a small ball peen hammer. I use the rounded end first then the flat end to finish.
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/AF/IMG_4396.jpg
That's all there is to it.:D
A clear picture of the tools used.
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/AF/IMG_4409.jpg
Stillakid
10-06-2010, 03:28 PM
Hey T-Man, I've got a Pikemaster Truck w/contact, bushings, but no riviet, sitting in my parts box. Want it?
4570
Stillakid
10-06-2010, 04:17 PM
Picked this up in a bag of "goodies", lots of rivets, screws,(a 302 in need of TLC), trucks, wheels, etc.
At first when I saw the picture, I thought it was an AF HO. NOT!!!
It appears to be a complete switcher motor assembly(missing the pin for the chugger arm, and needs new wheel insulators)
Anyonehave any ideas of what model #?
4571
4572
4573
The return from the lamp is wired in the 5th(top) jack panel???
Stillakid
10-06-2010, 09:16 PM
Timboy, got about 30 assorted rivets, 2 sets of link trucks, 6 sets of sintered wheels, the 302-great shape(needs side rods and front truck, but I have extras!), rear truck assembly for a 336(great shape), 2 of the round side plates for the reel on a 636 reel car(in good shape), a 6 wheel-link truck with metal and plastic wheels(great shape), the other part of a truck with the side mounted, spring loaded, power pick-up, and that 0-8-0. Delivered for $61:)
tjcruiser
10-06-2010, 09:26 PM
T-Man -- Nice job with the rivet reuse. I didn't know that was possible. I had just drilled some out of the trucks on my Lionel 1689T tender, planning to replace them with screws. I'll fiddle with rivet reuse method next time.
Jim -- I don't know much about AF steamer inventory, but for some reason, the wheel linkages on your loco remind me of the ones on postwar Lionel TURBINE steamers. (I can't think of the loco numbers right now, and no reference books with me at the moment.) Could it be that AF had their own version of a turbine steam loco?
TJ
Stillakid
10-06-2010, 10:28 PM
TJ, because of the number I found on the chassis, it's a 0-8-0 Switcher. Also the number on the flanged wheel w/tapped hole is only used on the 342AC Switcher..... It's a 342 AC:)
Stillakid
10-06-2010, 10:34 PM
Finding all the parts to complete this Locomotive and tender.
It would probably be cheaper to just buy one(NOT!):laugh: But I like the idea of salvaging and these are really, fine, runners!!:rolleyes:
4583
x_doug_x
10-07-2010, 01:35 AM
if you finish it that will make a awesome loco.
T-Man
10-07-2010, 08:07 AM
TJ, most Lionel rivets are brittle and will break. Still, it is a better way to remove them.
Jim, Good Luck on the project!
Reckers
10-07-2010, 08:45 AM
Jim, you are officially in receipt of my envy. *L* BEAUTIFUL ACQUISITION!!!!!
Reckers
10-07-2010, 08:49 AM
TJ, most Lionel rivets are brittle and will break. Still, it is a better way to remove them.
Jim, Good Luck on the project!
Most leathercrafting stores and your more rural hardware stores often carry a variety of rivets. They're used a lot in making belts and harnesses. Those old farmers would never think of buying a strap or a harness; they'd slice a strap out of a leather hide, punch a few holes in it and go to the toolbox for rivets. The more skilled would simply fashion a rivet on the anvil with some round stock.
T-Man
10-07-2010, 08:51 AM
Hey T-Man, I've got a Pikemaster Truck w/contact, bushings, but no rivet, sitting in my parts box. Want it?
4570
Jim,
Thanks for the offer. I can use it. The wheels will go to my red coach. The coupler will go with the Borden car. I have a broken one with good wheels but not fix it parts, so I can definitely use it.
tjcruiser
10-07-2010, 09:56 AM
Gents,
Thanks for rivet info/tips. Much appreciated.
Jim -- GREAT looking switcher loco. Some work to do to get it running again, of course, but she's in the best of hands. Have fun!
TJ
T-Man
10-09-2010, 06:38 PM
Some trucks are mounted with a plastic dowel.
I tried to remove one by spliting it but broke the post.
Repair was simple. Super glue to set and drill a 5/32 hole for a glued toothpick does the trick.
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/AF/IMG_4375.jpg
I suggest to flatten the sides if removal of the truck is desired. The two sides parrallel to the the car will work. Just have to move the truck 90 degrees and line up the flat sides with the slit in the truck. Prying up should finish it.
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4620&stc=1&d=1286667753
tjcruiser
10-09-2010, 07:09 PM
T-Man,
Clever "90-degree rotation/lock" idea. I like that one.
TJ
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