Basics of Building a Layout

[Stan kolak]

Basic tools:

Some carpenter tools, electric drill, battery operated also, drill bits, multimeter, soldering gun, soldering pencil, electronic hand tools, diagonal cutters, needle-nose pliers, wire strippers, tweezers, jewelers files, etc. Buy rosin core solder and a can of flux for rosin free solder. Yes, you will sometmes have to use the flux in tight places as there may be not enough rosin in the roll solder. Had experience as an equipment repair technician and used all tools related to wiring, among other fields.


Selecting layout size:

You do have to get around the table in order to work. No track should be more than 24" from the edge of a table. On a rectangle, 4' X 8', 4' X 10', etc., there should be two feet of floor space on the long sides. Given the room size, one end should be open to get to the other long side.

For "against the wall" layouts, a dogbone or horseshoe layout has to be used, each end would have the turn-a-rounds with the tracks turning into the center section and then parallel to the back track. This center section cut out of the rectangle should be about two feet wide. This would give you two track runs and room for several pairs of switches in the straight center.

You do need some switches to do some logical train runs, engine to train switching, etc. An oval or circle train run gets boring after a while.

Minimum radius for molded snap or E-Z track is 18". Minimum width of board is 38". I recommend flex track at 20" radius on a minimum width board at 42". Reason is, the larger engines with three axles can turn around smoothly. Parallel tracks on the curves need more room between them for the "corner swingout" of the cars and engine. An expert in our club found this out too late, only one train can do the curves at a time.


Construction Step 1:

Make the train table and paint the top dark brown or dark green. Layout all track on the table and run for several days to decide if this is the set up you want.


Construction Step 2:

Layout the streets and roads, allow for building lots on each side of the road. Paint the road black in the country and grey in the city. NOW build mountains and tunnels on layout allowing for all that was done already.


Construction Step 3:

Set all buildings in place, drill a hole through for lights if used. Tack glue two corners of the building in place. Spot glue trees and shrubs, usually around bare areas. Scenery can move with train vibrations, thus the glue tacking. Repaint areas around houses with the green paint, mixed with sand if desired. Repaint around industrial areas with brown, beige paint if desired. Allow for parking areas, grey for cement or sand color for worn areas on grass. Wait in time between steps so changes can be made, especially after the tunnels and mountains. This I learned from train club members who had a difficult time making changes after the major building was done.

-------------------------

Good luck beginners!!!

[NYCFlyer76]

Thank you this helps alot glad there are people like you out there for people like us who need some light shown

[kryan05]

Your right it is good to see that people are here to help guys like us.
Im also new to any forums and have a questions about setting up the contours of the base. Instead of having a flat base i wanted a base to follow a particular ground slope and contour levels. What type of base do you use for this. I have tried plaster but its just too heavy and cracks with every slight movement.

Look forward to your reply :confused:

[Boston&Maine]

Your right it is good to see that people are here to help guys like us.
Im also new to any forums and have a questions about setting up the contours of the base. Instead of having a flat base i wanted a base to follow a particular ground slope and contour levels. What type of base do you use for this. I have tried plaster but its just too heavy and cracks with every slight movement.

Look forward to your reply :confused:

Welcome! I would try using that styrofoam insulation which comes in sheets... You should be able to easily cut it and contour it to your liking...

http://www.isover.fi/files/pictures/tu_re_avance300.jpg

[stuart]

Why are most layouts are mounted on a pink foam board? Is that necessary? I also noticed that the tracks are mounted on cork. Why? You would still nail the tracks to the board. Would you use both, pink foam and cork?

[Boston&Maine]

Pink foam allows for sculpting of landscape contours, and it also makes it easy to stick trees and stuff to the layout... Track is mounted on cork to deaden the sound of the train as it goes around the layout...

[Reckers]

Why are most layouts are mounted on a pink foam board? Is that necessary? I also noticed that the tracks are mounted on cork. Why? You would still nail the tracks to the board. Would you use both, pink foam and cork?

Stuart,

The cork serves two purposes: one is to deaden noise, the other is for a neat appearance. The cork roadbed is sort of standard for layouts: people got used to seeing it and it became sort of a perceived necessity: it's not. If you are using the foam insulation panels under your track, try temporarily laying out your track and evaluate the noise level. If it doesn't sound overly-loud to you, forget the cork.

[stuart]

Well actually my track is nailed to a 4x8 board covered with a grass mat.

[Reckers]

No problem. Unless you think it's horribly noisy, you don't need the cork.

I just started building an S scale layout---haven't gotten very far, but you can follow the thing coming together there, if you're interested.
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=3893

[tjcruiser]

Some people use cork locally in way of the track, and then cover up the cork with a sprinkle of ballast stone. The cork height gives the illusion that the ballast bed buildup is thicker (taller) than it actually is.

[Reckers]

TJ, I agree with your explanation, but it's a practice I'm dubious about. I appreciate that, when done even moderately well, it gives the track very neat, clean lines. That tip-of-the-hat given, it just doesn't like any real train track I've ever seen. Maybe it looks that way in marshy country or in the flatlands out west, and is necessary to avoid snowdrifts. I suspect it's mostly a case of a progression as modeling developed: nail-to-plywood was too noisy, so sheet cork was added. Molded-rubber and shaped cork worked better than sheet cork and gradually became de rigueur for any layout, needed or not. My personal opinion is that, once you have pink foam beneath the track, cork is superfluous. It does contribute a nice look, but gives the appearance the train is running down the top of an endless dike. Just MHO, of course.

Finally....the only rule in model railroading is Rule #1: if it's your layout, your opinion is the only one that matters.

[COTrainguy]

Great Post!!!

[Reckers]

Thank you, and welcome to the site! I appreciate having anyone who agrees with me join the forum!:D

[TapRoot]

sorry I havent really looked in the forums too much I dont mean to ask twice, but what is the gravel effect made with under some tracks?


thanks for helpin out the new guys! I may wear out my welcome I have sooo many questions...time to get on the search button.

cheers

[tjcruiser]

Tap,

Lots of options, with personal preference driving the show ...

1. Create the "ballast" mound (as it's called) with actual scaled tiny stones, available in various grit sizes and colors from many hobby shops and/or online.

2. Create the quasi ballast mound from pre-cut flexible cork bed that's glued down to your layout board. A few mfrs make stuff that's beveled on the edges and split lengthwise down centerline such that you lay left and right halves individually, butted up against each other. That allows for easier contouring around tight turns.

3. Combine options above ... create a "core" mound with the cork, then glue-cover with ballast stone for a true ballast look.

Pros and cons to each, as mentioned in the thread above.

Cheers,

TJ

[TapRoot]

ahhh ic, thank you very much. The terms are starting to pop out at me so to speak, lol.
now it makes alot more sense.

cheers

[TapRoot]

heres a few fun pics...

1st pic - these are for switching tracks correct?
2nd pic - what is this??
last one is the lionel's I pulled out, some still have $2 price tags on them

[tjcruiser]

1st is package and parts for a remote control switch, or "turnout" in rr terms.

2nd looks to me (a guess) like an motorized train whistle. I see a small round opening to an impeller (fan) blade, perhaps, and two rectangular holes that could be the whistle itself.

You said Lionel ... I thought O gage ... you have Lionel HO ... neat ... somewhat uncommon here on the forum, but fun to see around.

Cheers,

TJ

[TapRoot]

is lionelHO different from lionel? or just the gauge that is rare from lionel

I just found out my most abused and parts missing loco is my only lionel..and I remember it being the fastest and funnest to use.

sorry I just realized I wasnt in my thread...

[tjcruiser]

Like a lot of longtime companies, Lionel's history is a bit of a roller coaster ride. They were the "big boys" in mostly Standard and O gages from around 1900 to 1960 or so. But in the 60's, more modern "tech" toys (non train ... think space-race and rockets) started to come on the market, and toy trains took a tough hit. To compete, Lionel dabbled into HO gage which did have some growing success in other companies. Lionel's HO locos were plagued with problems, though, and they never really grabbed a solid market niche. Lionel died a slow death into the '70's, then was bought out a few times, reorganized, and is now again a thriving company. O and Standard gage are their highlights, with some American Flyer S (via Lionel) too, I think.

So, in general, when people talk "Lionel" they mostly mean O, sometime Standard, and ... in that "forgotten" manner, HO.

Cheers,

TJ

[TapRoot]

so I guess then my question is are these things worth anything? more so than my tyco or bachmans (sp) or life-lyke

[Reckers]

Tap, TJ is correct. Lionel is the major American manufacturer these days for O gauge equipment. Lionel HO is less well-known, but is simply a good product down-sized. The green box, as TJ pointed out, should be a train whistle: a small impeller or fan drives air through two channels, producing two tones. You have some really nice stuff, there!

[Reckers]

Tap, I didn't address the value question---I don't run HO, so I don't have a clue. Right now, you are posting in a thread for "How to Build a Layout". If you repost in the HO section, you have a better chance of getting a good answer.

[tjcruiser]

Tap,

In terms of value, I think that ebay-searching is likely your best research tool. The Lionel HO cars look to be in great shape, and you have all of the original boxes (also in great shape), so the tally might be surprising.

You may already know this, but if you're logged into eBay, you can type in a search phrase, then (in advance search tool) click on "completed listings" ... both those that did sell, and those that didn't. I find this tool most helpful to get a better stap at a "high/low" range for value estimates.

And remember ... in many cases, if things are not all that common, that can reflect in a higher market value.

Good luck!

TJ

[Smokestack Lightning]

Some people use cork locally in way of the track, and then cover up the cork with a sprinkle of ballast stone. The cork height gives the illusion that the ballast bed buildup is thicker (taller) than it actually is.

+1:thumbsup:

[cprib]

Hi Stuart. what brand/type of grass mat did you use for your layout?
Did you use track integrated with plastic ballast? or did you use sectional(standard) track and how did you secure it(i.e. brads, glue)?
Thank you for any info!

[Robes]

Any difference between pink foam board and blue....besides the color?

[tjcruiser]

I think they're both extruded polystyrene rigid foam, and essentially no major difference. I hope others here will confirm.

TJ

[TapRoot]

there are grades in density

R3-R15 I think is what I saw the higher the R the more $$$

I like R5 but the higher stuff is much easier to carve mountains, less flakey

[NIMT]

The Blue foam is for the male modelers.
The Pink foam is for the female modelers.
:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh:
I know I'm going to here it on that one!!!:dunno:

Density is the only difference, blue is denser I do believe?
Both work great, Just do not use the tan (Name slips my mind) or white it's way to light in density and really hard to carve.

[Robes]

You know ya got it bad when you dream about building your layout. I did that last night.......

[NIMT]

Yep you got train fever!:D It infects every part of your life! The only slight cure for it is to build build build! :laugh:

[belsenj]

Just new here and thinking about starting an N Scale project, but thought I would chime in about the foam boards.

The blue is permanently compressible and the pink is not. I used the blue for my horse when she had hoof problems. Her standing on blocks of the blue will compress it down to a shell that molded completely to the form of her hoof. It provided protection while her hooves healed.

I will add that there are a couple of different manufacturers of the blue, so if that is what someone feels might come in handy for their project, do a finger test on the sheet before you buy it.

[Vic Damone]

Evening guys...

Whats the best way to secure tracks to foam? I plan on building on top of my plywood to assist with the scenery and am curious at to how I should best secure the track (since they wont be nailed down).

[NIMT]

Clear Latex caulking works rather well.

[JackC]

Rather than plywood has anyone considered MDF as the base of their layout? It's the compressed sawdust and resin product used a lot for floor underlayment. Not OSB,which is the chips glued together. I've used MDF for quick book shelves and 5 years later they have sagged just a bit, 1/4"-3/8" maybe but they were loaded with books and "stuff". No where near the weight of a HO layout.

MDF is denser and heavier than plywood, I think it would absorb sound better. Topped with homasote(sp?) for even more sound deading?

Other than eye appeal couldn't track be laid down without the cork or foam directly on the homasote?

Suggestions and opinions welcomed, as Sgt Schultz said "I know nothing"

Jack

[tjcruiser]

I've used MDF on a couple of layouts. I find it's a great dead-flat base surface, and very dimensionally stable with any changes in temp / humidity. Inexpensive to buy, and, one gets an extra "free inch": standard sheet is 49" x 97". Couple of downsides: MDF doesn't do well if it gets wet (puddled water), so it's important to avoid spills. And, its density makes it just a bit harder to drive brads for fastening track ties.

But all in all, I'm a big fan of MDF.

My local Home Depot stocks 3/4" and 1/2" thick sheets. If one hunts, you can find 1/4" sheets, too.

Even if one has a base table with a plywood top, I think a top "skin" of 1/4" MDF could add the benefit of a flatter starting surface.

TJ

[jzrouterman]

MDF is also used in the constuction of cabinets, and like TJ said, it's hard to drive brads into. Not to mention how much it weighs. I use a 1/2 inch thick fiber-insulation board. It's extremely light and cost less than $10.00 a 4 x8 sheet. I choose this material because it's very easy to drive track nails into with a track hammer, holds track secure, and the nails can later be easily extracted without destroying the track. The down side to it is that it tends to sag if not adequetly supported. So to counter this, I construct a table top frame, I then lay down the insulation fiberboard and secure it to the frame with one inch sheetrock screws.

In the past I've used other materials such as plywood, MDF, and foam. I didn't care for the plywood because the nail driving became a real chore and if I wanted to pull up the track later, sometimes it would result in destroying some of the ties if not the entire section of track while doing so. Though gluing is the best method to use with both MDF and foam, to tell you the truth, I've had mixed results with this method at best. So for me, I've just found it much easier, faster and more efficient using the insulation fiberboard. This may not be the norm, but it's worked very well for me.

When laying track, I use cork not because I need to, or that I think running trains is too loud without it, but simply because I like the way it looks. I like Woodland Scenics foam roadbed as well. It's very easy to work with, it's cheaper than cork and looks real nice when finished. It may not be exactly prototypical, but that's okay too. I like it.

Routerman

[bradimous1]

You know ya got it bad when you dream about building your layout. I did that last night.......

my wife and I are just starting the process of buying a house... don't even know what house we are going to buy yet, but built my train room in it last night.

[mailamaynard]

thanks a lot! this is really helpful!

[scanssystems]

I'm sorry for off top but I don't want to create separate thread for 1 question.
I just wonder to know, can I use regular tables instead of bench-worked tables? For example I can buy in Ikea complete table for $5 and multiply them as many as I need.
What do you think, guys?

[T-Man]

Without sounding like a piece of spam, try 95.
You can build a larger one for less, unless you find them on the roadside for free.

[sstlaure]

Layouts aren't particularly heavy - so I would think that you could use any table that is stable and level.

[scanssystems]

Thank you! But what is the estimate cost of make-yourself bench-table? For example 10'x3'

[Massey]

I'm sorry for off top but I don't want to create separate thread for 1 question.
I just wonder to know, can I use regular tables instead of bench-worked tables? For example I can buy in Ikea complete table for $5 and multiply them as many as I need.
What do you think, guys?

There was an article in MR about a year or so ago where a guy used Ikea shelves to build a layout on. He was sent overseas where lumber is not readily available so he used easy to find build it yourself furnature.

This is the system he used, it is called Gorm

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S29898200/

Massey

[sstlaure]

Thank you! But what is the estimate cost of make-yourself bench-table? For example 10'x3'

I'd estimate a 3'x10' table would be built as a 3x8 + (1) 3x2

1x4's are around $1.50 each, you'd need (7) for the outside framing = $10.50
1x3 are about $1.30 - you'd need maybe (2) for stringers inside the frame = $2.60
1 lb of 1.5" screws - $5.00
1 sheet of 1/2 plyboard ~$15 (Have them rip it to the 3' width, then use the 1x8 strip to patch in the rest. (put 1x3 ft on each end with the 3x8 in the middle)

Total = $15+5+2.60+10.50= about $33.

If you need legs you could use 2x2 for the legs and 1x2 for some bracing which might add an additional $10

Total is well under $50.

[Reckers]

my wife and I are just starting the process of buying a house... don't even know what house we are going to buy yet, but built my train room in it last night.

When my girlfriend and I started looking for a place, she wanted to sit down and have one of "those" discussions: what kind of house did I have in mind? My answer was pretty brief: "We need a really good basement: large, dry, good electrical wiring and lighting. With a house on top of it."

[scanssystems]

There was an article in MR about a year or so ago where a guy used Ikea shelves to build a layout on. He was sent overseas where lumber is not readily available so he used easy to find build it yourself furnature.

This is the system he used, it is called Gorm

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S29898200/

Massey

I can do it cheaper using this.. http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50071170/

sstlaure Thank you for estimate! Now I know how is everything going. Thanks a lot!

[Massey]

I was just showing you what the article showed as the shelf system used. I like what the stuff looks like but I can build the same or similar myslef for a fraction of the cost of the Gorn system.

Massey

[hoscale37]

So; can anyone help me out? What do MDF and OSB stand for?

In the process of getting materials/ideas together for a first layout... I have a few threads in the HO section.

Would Fiberboard be a good option for a layout? I want something that is going to be durable but not heavy.

Good thread, not to be nit-picky; but would it be possible to see some photos of different wood and other building materials that folks have used so that the newer people here can get a better idea of the specific building materials used?
I know this would help me out in getting started. :)

[big ed]

So; can anyone help me out? What do MDF and OSB stand for?

In the process of getting materials/ideas together for a first layout... I have a few threads in the HO section.

Would Fiberboard be a good option for a layout? I want something that is going to be durable but not heavy.

Good thread, not to be nit-picky; but would it be possible to see some photos of different wood and other building materials that folks have used so that the newer people here can get a better idea of the specific building materials used?
I know this would help me out in getting started. :)


Why ask twice??

It was answered in your other post.

Here,

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=9311

[hoscale37]

Why ask twice??

It was answered in your other post.

Here,

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=9311

Sorry Ed, still a newbie- I had started looking around further on the forum and saw this thread.

Hope you can forgive a newbie. ;)

[professor]

I have three questions that I would greatly appreciate answers for if you will.
(1) Am I correct in persuming that when adding track to my layout that any brand of a HO grade of track will work for a HO grade train, or and soforth with other grades ?
(2) On one of my tracks my locomotive runs good, I can add a caboose and it runs, any other car, " only one car" and the wheels just sit and spin. What next?
(3) How big a track can be set up before I need to purchase my next power source and " connection track?"

[manchesterjim]

I have three questions that I would greatly appreciate answers for if you will.
(1) Am I correct in persuming that when adding track to my layout that any brand of a HO grade of track will work for a HO grade train, or and soforth with other grades ?
(2) On one of my tracks my locomotive runs good, I can add a caboose and it runs, any other car, " only one car" and the wheels just sit and spin. What next?
(3) How big a track can be set up before I need to purchase my next power source and " connection track?"

Looks like this one went unanswered but:

1: HO Track comes in different "codes" i.e. Code 100, Code 83, and so on. This has to do with the "height" of the rail from the ties. You'll want to make sure you use the same code. (Some track has this info printed on the bottom of the ties).

2. Not sure without seeing pictures, but it sounds like something is binding.

3. This really depends on the power source. Are you running a standard DC power pack or will you be going with DCC. There is no hard and fast rule about length of track relative to power supply requirements. It would be better if you could post a sketch of the layout you are considering (with table dimensions). That would give us some ideas to speculate on!

Jim