Simple How to's

[T-Man]

Engine Shell Draw bar Rests.

Here, I have three old runners. The center is original, however that piece tends to broken over time. To fix the other two, I drilled into the shell and epoxied a wire into place. Added a little extra for shaping and style. It worked.


http://www.modeltrainforum.com/gallery/files/3/5/2/drawbarrestup.jpg

[T-Man]

I dressed up a 5mm LED witha Xmas light socket. I used a tungsten carbide bit to drill out the socket. The plastic cover from 8 strand telephone wire fits right in. If you place stiff wire in the plastic you can shape it like a lampost, but the plastic is thick. Or you can hang the bulb from a ceiling of a workshed. It looks a lot like a mercury vapor lamp you see in large buildings.:cool:

Lettering on the wire coating is removed using a fine sand paper 400 grit. If you prefer not to paint. Sand paper is so much easier than paint thinner or finger nail polish(acetone).I used coat hanger wire, maybe overkill, but it works.

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/gallery/files/3/5/2/lampost_up.jpg

[train4myboys]

Nice little tips, thanks, and keep em coming!

[T-Man]

I like your style

Light Tip, Helpful Tip, Thanks, T-man

It gave me a chuckle.:)

[T-Man]

A simple detection circuit using an isolated track of 3 rail AC power.
The example is an early warning signal when approaching a stop.
The rail must be isolated from the stop.

Use a second track section and have a yellow indicator.

When the first car rolls to the isolated section the circuit lights up.:cool:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/gallery/files/3/5/2/auto_signal.jpg

[ntrainlover]

Me and my gradpa put something together like this for an isolated track section for use with railking crossing gates. It works fairily well. its hard to figure out what to do with the wires ,but we figured it out.:D
You have got some helpful tips.

[Boston&Maine]

I like that "3 Rail Signal" post that you made, that is a very good idea... I may actually use that into my layout when I can finally make one :smilie_daumenpos:

[T-Man]

its hard to figure out what to do with the wires ,but we figured it out.:D


The important thing is that you tried to do something. Succeeding is the reward, but remember in failure you learn too. I am sure your granpa enjoys working with you.;)

[T-Man]

I made it 9 inches tall (23cm), but I can't decide on how much to bend it. I have two others in the making. I used a metal coat hangar in the tubing. Bending would be the last step, the wire is unforgiving. I haven't fed the wire through or soldered the LED. The base isn't complete either but it stands up.


http://www.modeltrainforum.com/gallery/files/3/5/2/lampostm_up.jpg

[T-Man]

The craft stores have them. Depending on your tastes they have a selection. I think I got the idea from a magazine to use them as O scale signs. Here are two.


http://www.modeltrainforum.com/gallery/files/3/5/2/pepsiup.jpg

[T-Man]

I recently got interested in armature windings. This was possible with a Radio Shack product that contains 3 rolls of the wire and es inexpensive too boot. The green roll contains enough wire to do 4-5 windings of 97 turns.

Yes I counted them as I unwound.:p The red will actually renew an automatic uncoupler. The gold is the same for the outer motor field winding.

I dismantled the brush plate by unsoldering the connections and removing the plate. Then unwound the wire.

I wound each of the three fields first, then I soldered the three together under the plate area on top. Placed the plate on and soldered the three to the plate.Each winding was wrapped around the top of the shaft,counter clockwise and finished on the bottom shaft. The bottom connections were bought up to the plate when soldered.

Before soldering, you have to remove the shelac finish. I used an xacto knife.

I could only hand wind 50 turns, more than that and the brush plate won't fit on. I know I will loose power but I won't know till I assemble it and run it.

If I find another bad armature I could try it with the thin red.Theoretically more turns more power.

Not exactly simple, but fun.:)

As a replacement part they sell around $35. A cost of a good used motor.

[Boston&Maine]

It sounds like you have a good approach to that... Now how exactly does the armature "go bad"? I do not think I have had any problems with my old Lionel trains, but maybe I just did not know :rolleyes:

[T-Man]

Simple It won't spin. You look for continuity between the three plates and a short to the shaft using a volt meter. I had the drum on the e unit break and short it out(SMOKING). You can also check resistance between the plates for comparison.

When I started with 97 turns the brush plate was propted up with 3 washers. I'd run the motor and the windings were so thick they rubbed against the motor plate support and sparked (FUN). I'd remove 10 to 15 turns at a time and repeated. 50 turns gave me the clearance to get rid of the washers and the rubbing. I want to fix the drum first.

The takes practice. I just wanted to know if I could do it. The power will tell. Some of my older engines have very little. I need to change brushes and springs on them first.

I thought I lost this post? :eek:Whew

[Welshwiz]

I have stepped into new turf - servicing my Lionel Trains. THey have been in the attic for 20 + yrs.
I have one motor where the armature does not turn/rotate - it only vibrates. Does this indicate that I need have it re-wound? I changed the bushes and check all my wires.
Please help a frustrated novice.

[T-Man]

Welcome to the forum.
Something is amiss. Some motors are peculiar so I need to know what kind it is.
A can motor needs DC but AC/DC if it has an electronic e unit. An old motor runs on AC. This might be your problem.
OR

The AC ,armature has to be centered if it touches it will vibrate.
First try to loosen the top two screws and twist the top clockwise.With pressure retighten and try again. I can't find the post I talked about before. This is just a guess.
Do you have a voltmeter?
You REALLY need to tell me the engine type and number. 20 years isn't that old in my collection. A variety of motors existed.
Bob
Usually smoke indicates a short, Vibrate might be the DC motor with AC. It could be one bad winding.

[Welshwiz]

I have dis-connected it from everything and I have the same results as when it was connected. I even removed the wheel frame.
THis is a lionel Santa Fe 2032 AA unit. I have new bushes and cleaned up everything, Does the armature need to be re-wired? :confused:

[T-Man]

It's 52/54 era. Try the twist trick. Run a jumper from the brush to the coil. Then power to the other brush and ground to the frame to see if it works. The plastic top could just be loose.

It should look like this.
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/gallery/files/3/5/2/washers_on600mkt.jpg

part number 622-109 for the armature. 2023 - 100 is the complete motor.
Bob

[T-Man]

Trouble shooting is a step by step process. I am not convinced it is bad.So let us go to basics.
Does the transformer run another engine?
Does the armature spin freely? No binding?
Is the wiring correct?
Is the e unit Broken? The drum must spin. Usually the end breaks.
Visual inspection of the armature The three wires connected to the plates. Any worn areas on the windings. How does the copper surface look?
Do the sides have scuff marks?
I would prefer you used a used pair of old brushes because they worked. New ones may be tight and not broken in.
Observation is everthing in troubleshooting.
It could be something simple.

[T-Man]

Options exist.
Locate a new one for 35 bucks plus shipping.
Total rewind is not easy. You will only replace 50 % of the wire removed.
Winding is an art, I did a pole a day and still couldn't match the original.
If it is bad then you have nothing to lose.
I would remove 5 turns from each pole and resolder in hopes of removing the short and retest. This can be done ten times and you will lose half of the wire.
The result is a loss of pulling power. With an AA unit you do want to pull rolling stock on that long layout so I would buy a replacement.
Any pictures would help.
Bob

25 bucks
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/mh.htm
3/4 of the page down
He has it stocked 3 other suppliers didn't .

[tkruger]

I d not know if this applies to trains or not. I race RC cars. When there motors get worn you need to cut the comm. To do this you place it on a lath made specifically for this task. In the end the comm is like new. Also replacing the brushes help tremendously. There is a product RC racers use called motor spray. It is for cleaning out all the junk that builds up when running an electric motor. There is allot of it to. I tried the motor spray an an HO that would not start without a push. Freed it up and it now runs well. The spray also lubricates the com and brushes. You do need to remove the motor to use it as it gets everywhere and is difficult to clean properly.

[T-Man]

The picture has 50 turns out of 100 on each pole. There is no room for more . The motor won't fit. Notice the three wire soldered from each of the poles. On this armature the isulation is on the side. Normally the top is insulated and the connection is under the plate.
TO wind, the plate is removed I loop the wire on the top around the pin to hold it and wind counter clockwise then wind it on the bottom pin to hold it. Then when the three are done I solder the top wires together and install the top. Then I solder the bottom wires to the plate. I used a hobby knife to strip the wire clean before I solder.The length of the pole takes 10 turns before reversing and notice the outer edge has more turns to fit the plate in.



http://www.modeltrainforum.com/gallery/files/3/5/2/armwind.jpg

[T-Man]

Quote:I d not know if this applies to trains or not. I race RC cars. When there motors get worn you need to cut the comm. To do this you place it on a lath made specifically for this task. In the end the comm is like new. Also replacing the brushes help tremendously. There is a product RC racers use called motor spray. It is for cleaning out all the junk that builds up when running an electric motor. There is allot of it to. I tried the motor spray an an HO that would not start without a push. Freed it up and it now runs well. The spray also lubricates the com and brushes. You do need to remove the motor to use it as it gets everywhere and is difficult to clean properly. end of Quote


Yes they do get pitted. I just use a fine sand paper. It's something that is not done on a regular basis. I have heard of using a lathe. I used sand paper on car starter motors and just carried it to trains .
The cleaner sounds interesting. SOme motors heat up to dirt. The problem is removing an O scale wheel to remove the armature to clean it. The trick is getting back on and have it not look like it was removed.
Brushes I need to replace. Many are original.
I have seen on ebay, sellers who refurb motors to like new condition. They claim to use the lathe method. So yes your RC experirnce does help with trains. I'm older, so my motor experience was with HO slot cars.

Bob

[rkilgore]

Re: LED application. Isn't and LED a DC current appliance? Can they be used in a Lionel AC current application?

[T-Man]

Ok my favorite question.I have a 1N4001 diode off the neg side and a 750 ohm resistor on the positive.Engine mounting is more problematic and you need a bridge rectifier.This method blocks reverse voltage and some disagree to its use on what it can do to a transformer but if you use two opposing LDs the current flow is not interrupted. My study shows this is what is sold on ebay. In my opinion a few of these will not hurt a transformer. You can easily use a battery too. Search this forum for more postings.Actully I have had more problems with DC engine use. I have had to use voltage regulators and bridge rectifiers, basically a power supply to prevent LED burnout. I currently have two engines with LED headlights.
LED (http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=521&highlight=resistor)
Flasher (http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=534&highlight=resistor)
More flasher (http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=537&highlight=resistor)
I used "resistor" for search.

[rkilgore]

I found a business that sells led's for Lionel ac. The rectifier and resister are built into the fixture. And they are very reasonable.
http://www.trainaidsa.com/shop-leds.html

[T-Man]

It is an easy way to get them. The rectifier is actually a diode. The diode won't last in the engine. The current fluctuation will burn out the diode. They should be fine in a coach. I found that a full bridge is needed to mount lights in the engine. DC or AC.
I just buy bulk out of Asia. On ebay the prices have dropped with free shipping. I got some shipments in under 9 days.
I do such different things for HO too that prewired doesn't interest me.
Anyway any supplier is worth a look at.
Also I am partial to 12 volt grain of wheat bulbs. I ordered them through ebay from Chicago at a decent price. These are great for HO lighting cars.

[T-Man]

This was out of box I recently got. Luckily the broken door was in the car. So I decided to do a repair and fix it. I grooved out the area for a pin (paper clip) and used two minute two part epoxy. I used a hole in a scraper handle to hold the door flat because of the handle.
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/Lionel/IMG_1683.jpghttp://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/Lionel/IMG_1684.jpg
http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/Lionel/IMG_1690.jpghttp://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/Lionel/IMG_1691.jpg

Good as new :)

[T-Man]

I have been installing the Marx Bridges to my trestle loop when I noticed one of my newly built trestles was CROOKED.:eek: It must of been the way I screwed it down. Anyway I tried to redrill but still Crooked :eek:. To fix it I stacked two small washers under the bridge to wedge it level ,next to each screw and tightened.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/table/IMG_1795.jpg



(I lost wireless so no Pic's for now) I gave up and plugged in.

[T-Man]

I finally got to slice up some track and make it fit.
First I marked out the length. I halfed the section.
I positioned the old trestle by using a bar and tap it down the rail.
Using the dremel wheel I cut the top sections, flip it over and do the ends the down the center.
Instead of going through, you can break it off (then risk breaking a wheel) and clean it flush.
Then I slide and old trestle to the unsupported side and add pins.
Two new smaller pieces!

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/table/IMG_1798.jpghttp://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/table/IMG_1800.jpg





(Again no pic's. I hate it when there is a router problem. The puter tells you to see the administrator. That's me, and I still have no idea what the problem is?)I went with a cable.

[T-Man]

A simple detection circuit using an isolated track of 3 rail AC power.
The example is an early warning signal when approaching a stop.
The rail must be isolated from the stop.

Use a second track section and have a yellow indicator.

When the first car rolls to the isolated section the circuit lights up.:cool:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/gallery/files/3/5/2/auto_signal.jpg


Update This is how I isolated the rail. I removed the pin from the lower right rail. There is a gap there.
Now all I have to do is build a signal. I double checked with an ohm meter to make sure it was isolated.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/table/IMG_1807.jpghttp://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/table/IMG_1806.jpg

[T-Man]

I changed the plan and removed the diodes. I will use two yellow and two red lights. These are common Radio Shack variety. They draw 20 milliamps and operate at 2 to 2.5 volts. So one track section will operate the yellow and the close one will operate the red. I willpower this with the ac 20 volt accessory terminals and by grounding through the rail will operate the lights even when the engine is off and a car is on the track.

The electronics are two opposing LEDs with a 470 ohm resistor you can go as high to 750 ohms. That's it the LEDs protect each other from AC back current the resistance reduces the RMS voltage. No diodes needed. So I need a feed from the Accessory terminals to the lights and the ground rail and from the isolated track to the lights The common terminals must be used from the same transformer. WIth no connections to the center rail the engine will not be affectecd.


http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/electronic/IMG_1824.jpg http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/electronic/IMG_1825.jpg

I used old Genova 1/2 inch PVC pipe. I found that Schedule 40 is larger. It 's aboutthe size of 3/4 Genova type. The stuff is dirt cheep because you don't need fittings. The hardware store had Genova fittings but I did not see the slim 1/2 inch pipe. So I used Genova 1/2 inch for the stands and 3/4 for the light holders.

This is for three rail AC operation. Both light because of the AC current. They actually flash but it is so fast you cannot see it.
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/gallery/files/3/5/2/ac_signal.jpghttp://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/LED/IMG_1829.jpg

I started to solder it up, and so far both poles have broken off. It doesn't take much abuse. I just have to remember that I am setting up two sets of lights yellow and red . I have to feed in two more wires.

[T-Man]

The Signal is completed and working. A pic to show it off. Video to follow after I produce it.I added a jumbo red to the wall and mated with a white LED used as a tower light.
I used the 1040 transformer. The 2333 was particular about reversing but I got through it. Because of the number of wires in the tube I used a wire through the water caps to hold them in. I drilled a hole on the backside and bent the ends if the wire too hold.


http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/LED/IMG_1837.jpg ... <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/cfNWBTL7xz0&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/cfNWBTL7xz0&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

[servoguy]

The motor in question often has a problem with a loose lower bearing. The lower bearing is in a plastic housing between two aluminum plates. If the plastic housing is loose, it will allow the armature to rub the field. My quick fix is to use a pair of needle nose pliers and put a little twist into the aluminum plates at the four corners of the plastic housing to take out the slack. I did this on a 44 ton GE loco 40 years ago, and it is still running OK.

If you cut the armature winding in half with the same wire size, you have cut the resistance in half and also cut the inductance by 4x. The current therefore will more than double and so the motor power stays about the same as the current * # of turns is the field strength and it didn't change. If you change the wire gauge so that only half as many turns fit on the armature, then the wire area has changed by a factor of 2 and so the current is up by 4 (wire half as long and twice the area) and so the field strength is up by a factor of 2 (4x current and half the turns). However, in both cases you may get into problems with heating of the wire. Measure the resistance and calculate the I^2*R power dissipated in the winding. If you get the wire size too far off, you will have smoke without using smoke fluid. Also, these motors are series wound, and so the current will tend to be limited by the field winding.
Bruce Baker

[T-Man]

Thank you for the post.
My 600 has a stapled frame so I will look into shimmimg the plastic end. but I think the top is worn but I haven't gotten around to bush it with a rivet.

The only test I know for a motor is called a Megger. It passes 500 v through the coil and meaures the leakage. Are you saying I can use a regular voltmeter?

Anyway the motor is on the back burner. It has problems between the armature and e unit. So everything is not simple anymore.

[servoguy]

T-Man,
Let me suggest a place you can get magnet wire cheap and get the size you need. My home is near Orlando, Florida. There is a surplus shop near Orlando in Winter Park named Skycraft. They have a hug amount of surplus stuff of all kinds. If you ask them for a few hundred feet of magnet wire, they may mail it to you. They do some stuff on the Internet. I have been buying stuff from them for 25 years. You can find them on the Internet at http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/

If you order something, they also have some 4-36 screws. The are all 3/8" long, but they are cheap, like 20 cents a dozen. You can always cut them with a Dremel tool.

Skycraft is the best surplus store I have ever seen.

Bruce Baker

[big ed]

T-Man,
Let me suggest a place you can get magnet wire cheap and get the size you need. My home is near Orlando, Florida. There is a surplus shop near Orlando in Winter Park named Skycraft. They have a hug amount of surplus stuff of all kinds. If you ask them for a few hundred feet of magnet wire, they may mail it to you. They do some stuff on the Internet. I have been buying stuff from them for 25 years. You can find them on the Internet at http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/

If you order something, they also have some 4-36 screws. The are all 3/8" long, but they are cheap, like 20 cents a dozen. You can always cut them with a Dremel tool.

Skycraft is the best surplus store I have ever seen.

Bruce Baker

Nice prices in their store.
I wonder how reasonable the shipping charges are?
Thanks for the link Bruce.:thumbsup:

When you say magnet wire what do you mean? What kind of wire is that?
I searched for it on their site but couldn't locate it.

[T-Man]

It's lacquered wire for motor winding.
Arts & Craft stores use it for jewlery.
AC Moore just went under locally. Radio Shack changed the length in their package. It only takes 12 to 15 ft for one pole and I could only fit half of that. The store sounds like my kinda place.

500 red LEDs for 5.95! Oooooh! No matching green though.

[big ed]

It's lacquered wire for motor winding.
Arts & Craft stores use it for jewlery.
AC Moore just went under locally. Radio Shack changed the length in their package. It only takes 12 to 15 ft for one pole and I could only fit half of that. The store sounds like my kinda place.

500 red LEDs for 5.95! Oooooh! No matching green though.


I though of you as soon as I saw the 500 red LED'S.:D Good price?
I wonder how much to ship? I went through part of the checkout up to the point were they ask for personal info. Unless I missed it I would like to know what you are going to pay for shipping in advance.
I must have missed it I will go and look again.:rolleyes:

(By the way I think the chopper is to small for the battery)

I never rewound any motors.
Is the purpose of the "lacquered" wire to keep it from shorting out? Do you use the same for E units?:confused:

[big ed]

Yes I missed it it would cost me $5.15 to ship those LED'S.:D

[servoguy]

Coils almost always use "lacquered" wire or magnet wire. The insulation is very thin and quite rugged. It is not lacquer as lacquer is not tough enough. The insulation on magnet wire is thin to allow the maximum about of wire for a given space.

Skycraft does not list everything they have on their web site. If you have a question, I suggest you call them. They are very helpful. They have a lot of wire of all different sizes and types.

The stock that Skycraft has is always changing, so if they have something you think you might want, and the price is good, you probably should buy it as they may not have it next week.

Bruce Baker

[servoguy]

BTW, they may have green LEDs. It may be that they are not listed.

Bruce Baker

[tjcruiser]

If you order something, they also have some 4-36 screws.


Jeff Kane at the Train Tender has 4-36 screws, too ... in a few different lengths. I've ordered a few from him. The -36 thread is an old / non-standard size for today's common #4 screws which are 40 tpi for UNC threads.

Cheers,

TJ

[Simplexbike123]

I remember all so well, those years back when my youngest son raced RC-10s. At $4.00 a can, it didn't take me long to look for an alternate motor/commutator cleaner. Compared chemicals, and found that auto brake cleaner (at $1.00 a can) worked perfectly. I do remember comments like, "you are going to burn out your motor"; and another was "the film from that stuff will kill your motor". We never experienced a problem, and he even eventually raced the slim-wound motors, and still no problem.

It also made a whole lot less mess, which might help some on their trains. You do have to put a drop or two of oil in different places, but was a very inexpensive answer.

Jack


I d not know if this applies to trains or not. I race RC cars. When there motors get worn you need to cut the comm. To do this you place it on a lath made specifically for this task. In the end the comm is like new. Also replacing the brushes help tremendously. There is a product RC racers use called motor spray. It is for cleaning out all the junk that builds up when running an electric motor. There is allot of it to. I tried the motor spray an an HO that would not start without a push. Freed it up and it now runs well. The spray also lubricates the com and brushes. You do need to remove the motor to use it as it gets everywhere and is difficult to clean properly.

[servoguy]

Jack,
I have used brake clean works great for degreasing and cleaning motors. It doesn't harm insulation but I would be a little cautious about getting it on paint. I used it to clean up a 2333 dual motor F3 which had grease packed into the gearboxes. The grease had dried out and gotten hard and I had to dig it out with a screw driver and then soften up the remainder with WD-40 before the brake clean would remove it. This is why I don't recommend grease for anything. It will dry out in a few years and then it can be very difficult to remove. I oiled the 2333 with 20W-50 motor oil, and after a year it is still running very well. I oiled the commutator on this engine, also, which I think is a trick the RC car guys use. The prophets of doom turned out to be wrong about this one.

Bruce Baker

[T-Man]

I came across some smaller acorns the other day and started working on scale pumpkins. I start with a 5/64th drill and inserted the toothpicks with glue. They make a great stem after its cut. For now, it is an adaptation of the TJ toothpick paint stand. Then paint them up with acrylic pumpkin.
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4717&stc=1&d=1287029639...http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4718&stc=1&d=1287029639

Shown is the Lemax Spookytown mailbox. My pumpkin is in the background.
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4719&stc=1&d=1287029639

[tjcruiser]

... it is an adaptation of the TJ toothpick paint stand.


T-Man,

May the Great Pumpkin always smile on you with good fortune, and may your trick-or-treat goodie bag always be full!

TJ

[T-Man]

At times I need something smaller. So the dremel wheel does the trick. This screw I shortened for the AF 706 drawbar. What helps is adding a nut to the screw before the cut is made. It helps to align the threads when the nut is removed. A lot of times the screw won't fit into a nut after it is cut.


http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4760&stc=1&d=1287280452...http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4761&stc=1&d=1287280452

[tjcruiser]

T-Man,

Good wisdom in that one ... I use that a lot. In fact, your photo show TWO nuts ... even better to align those cut screw threads back into position.

Cheers,

TJ

[servoguy]

When you have cut the screw, put a sanding disc in the Dremel and clean up the end of the screw. Then the nut should start without a problem.
Bruce Baker

[tjcruiser]

Good point, too. Often, I'll spin the screw around in my finger against a sanding disc while holding it at about a 15-degree angle. It puts a little bevel around the end perimeter of the screw, and cleans up those jagged thread ends.

TJ

[T-Man]

Just a few wires and you can dress up an ugly tender. Jim passed a few candidates on to me. :thumbsup:
A small drill and some wire. If you notice

the botom of the hand rails go straight down. The frame does not extend under this part so I epoxy the underside to hold the rail. These shell do break at the screw holes and I just cut them out and use an epoxy block. Previously done.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/tender/2466wx/IMG_0390.jpg

[Wabashbud]

Really cool tips, keep them coming.

Bud

[T-Man]

Another tender shell problem. A bad blemish on the shell. It is on both sides. I first thought it was bad paint and started with a stripper. It just softened the plastic and I lost the rivets. I even tried acetone which helped. Then I switched and used a sandpaper. Around 200 + I got rid of the gator skin and it started to get smooth and then went to a 300+ paper. I am on the right track.


http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/tender/2466wx/IMG_0389.jpg

[gunrunnerjohn]

Are you going to put the rivets back? :)

[Handyandy]

Maybe he didn't count the rivets first and now doesn't know how many to replace? :D

[gunrunnerjohn]

That's what happens if you don't count rivets. ;)

[T-Man]

I am sorry the bald look is IN!

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/tender/2466wx/IMG_0414.jpg...http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/tender/2466wx/IMG_0415.jpg

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/tender/2466wx/IMG_0405.jpg

Rivets, I have to think about that one. Toothpick and epoxy?
My last step was using rubbing compound with the green scotchbrite. No paint.

This is an experiment of sorts. It is possible to recover a shell from damage. The purpose is not to make it look new but useable.:)

Now for the other side.

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/tender/2466wx/IMG_0417.jpg...http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/tender/2466wx/IMG_0418.jpg

[Handyandy]

Flat black at 3 feet away and moving, probably nobody but train nuts would ever miss the rivets. :laugh:

Looks better than that old mange in had before.

[Kwikster]

T-man what kind of stripper did you try? I have a 6466w which had been painted twice. I used Chameleon stripper, which is styrene safe, and had good results. It didn't soften the plastic at all. After a brief soak, and brushing with a toothbrush, even the original Lionel paint is lifting. I'll have to see if I can get some pics up soon.

Carl

[T-Man]

I don't have it with me but I believe it is 3m safestrip. It was slow acting on the plastic. I have used it in the past to remove spots off boxcars. What ever cause the blemishes was a lot stronger. Must of been a glue of some kind. I would like to try the brake fluid, just to see how well it works.

[rrbill]

T-Man, I like your idea about adding wire handrails to tenders to enhance their appearance. Obviously, piano wire is unsuitable for this purpose. What type of wire did you use and where did you obtain it, please? For appearance' sake, I would rather not use brass wire for this.

[T-Man]

Paper clips are the easiest. Non coated welding wire is the best . You can buy new or find scrap. You don't need long pieces.