2016 reunning problems

[dbyll]

Hello, I am trying to restore my set from 1955. Well to be short engine will run backwards for a a little while. When I switch directions it will try to move foward, maybe a inch but the stops. The headlamp will also stop working. When this happens the engine will not move at all. HELP. model 2016 and it appears to have only a on and off switch on top. This also feels a little loose. How can this be tightened.

[gunrunnerjohn]

First step is to take the shell off and lube it. I'd also check the brushes and commutator of the motor to make sure they don't need cleaning.

[dbyll]

John, Thank you I should have said that, I did clean and relube unit. It would not move at all before.

[gunrunnerjohn]

Does the motor turn over freely and move the wheels? Can you feel any resistance that way? Can you put the engine on the track without the shell and get it working? How about cleaning the contacts of the E-Unit?

[santafe158]

It sounds like one of the wires to a pickup roller is broken somewhere and it's losing contact when the wired up pickup roller runs over some dirty track (or is dirty itself). If you give it a push after it stops does it move again?

The switch on top activates the E-Unit (reverse unit). I think the lever is riveted on.

[tjcruiser]

DB,

Here's some service info sheets on that loco ... click each icon to open as a pdf:

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/2016.htm

The "switch" on top of the loco is not an on/off switch, but rather a switch that engages or disengages the e-unit. When disengaged, the loco will run in the same direction with each throttle-down of the transformer, or, be stuck in neutral (I'll elaborate in a moment). When the e-unit is engaged, the loco will operate via a cycle of directions with each transformer throttle-down: forward-neutral-reverse-neutral-etc. If one were to disengage the e-unit while in the neutral setting, the loco wouldn't run with the next power cycle.

Your symptoms make me suspect that you have an interim short in the e-unit. The e-unit consists of a solenoid plunger that moves a little poker-finger that turns a small cylindrical drum. This drum has copper electrical surfaces that rub up against a set of 6 small contact fingers (4 upper / 2 lower). Often, the drum gets dislodged out of its pivot, or the contact fingers get bent. Either way, your normal fwd/reverse cycle can be very faulty.

I suggest you read up on e-units here:

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=615

And then watch this fabulous e-unit fix-it video (in two parts), here:

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?p=54903

Regards,

TJ

[T-Man]

The 2016 is the same as the 2018 or 2026 and even a 1666 is close. Look here for e unit info we have plenty. Any motor service here will help you too.

Check these out (http://www.modeltrainforum.com/tags.php?tag=e+unit)

[dbyll]

THANKS to everyone who replied. I guess this will keep me busy. Note I did not clean the E unit contacts ect. will do today and see what happens. I got my AEC 57 rare unit running like new. I paid 12.95 for it in the late 50"s. Gary

[gunrunnerjohn]

You can sell the AEC 57 and by some replacement locomotives, they're selling for some pretty steep prices! :D Keep that baby in good condition, and don't lose the box!

[dbyll]

Thanks. I removed the e unit and found the ratch roller with a broken side pin. I guess I need a e unit. pa I do have the box and will try to keep that little AEC switcher for awhile. Anyone have a Engine or parts I need for sale?

[tjcruiser]

No need for a full e-unit. The "ratch roller" is a called an e-unit drum. Repro ones readily available. The video links (per post 6 above) will show you how to do the replacement. Tricky (a "27 fingers needed" thing), but doable with patience. Jeff Kane at The Train Tender www.ttender.com has drums readily available ... around $5, I think.

Do check the little finger contacts, too ... very easy for those to get bent out of position.

TJ