Imitation Strobe Light

[T-Man]

The first step is trimming a LED to combine two together, Once that is done a flasher is used to simulate a strobe light by having one side blink short and the other blink long. I used a worn dremel sander to shape the plastic.


http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12850&stc=1&d=1321759104


http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12849&stc=1&d=1321759079

[T-Man]

Next I did four test with different capacitors. The 33uf did well but I haven't decided on one yet. I separately tested a 68 uf and 47 uf. The 100uf was too slow.


GDCnv5lpIr0

[Stillakid]

Bob, very neat! Could that be used for "End of Train" set up?
Are you going to post the schematic when you're done testing?

Regards,
Jim

[T-Man]

Jim, this is all done with the 555 IC. I have an old thread (http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=537&highlight=flasher+parts)that will flash at 41 or 19.

Of course you have to power it. The nine volt battery is the simplest way to do it. If you use track power, you double the cost. A pre made EOT will sell for around 14 bucks

Here I just wanted to make a strobe light, I just have to decide on the capacitor and resisitance.

I guess you can say this is a "Follow Along Thread", when I am done then it will be a "How To".

One trouble I have is the "specifics", I need to research notes on how I did accomplish a previous project. Normally I use a power supply on board with a voltage regulator ic. I used something between 5 and 12 volts. OK I used a 5 volt in an HO engine once in this old thread. (http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=755&highlight=flasher+parts) . This was the actual installation (http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=745&highlight=athearn+flasher).

I am seeing a cycle now that newer members are asking some repeated questions, but this is a discussion forum right?

[gunrunnerjohn]

For an EOT device, you can just use a flashing LED, resistor, and a diode tied to track power. The most expensive part is getting the power pickup installed on the truck for track power. The bonus is you don't run through batteries, which also gets expensive after a spell...

I'm thinking of picking up some of those tea lights that have the flickering LED, anyone ripped one of those apart to see what's inside?

[xrunner]

I'm thinking of picking up some of those tea lights that have the flickering LED, anyone ripped one of those apart to see what's inside?

Yea I have torn apart about 10. The old ones had an IC outside the LED that made it flash randomly, but all the new ones have the IC integrated into the LED. I want to use some for possibly a wood fire, or a building bulb going bad, or possibly welding. You can wire the Tea Light LED in series with a white LED, but conceal the Tea Light LED, and it will make the white LED flash too.

There's also a cheap switch inside plus a good CR 2032 battery :).

[T-Man]

What rate do the blinkers flash? It is a very simple set up to do it your way.


I got three tea light for 3 bucks at K Mart . Michaels craft also had them six for 7 bucks. I was going to go back Tues with a coupon but I found the K mart deal.

You want an inside peak?

3 volts of batteries, a switch, and a LED

http://www.modeltrainforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=12875&stc=1&d=1321808490

I have a short movie I will process later.

[gunrunnerjohn]

So the LED gets the flickering effect all by itself now? That's great, wouldn't that be cool for old-time caboose lighting? :)

The blinkers flash at about once a second or in that ballpark. I have one Lionel EOT device on a car, and it appears to flash at the same rate. I'm working on a new engine arrival and putting blinking top marker lights and a MARS light using a blinker, I'll post some pictures when I get it finished.

[Artieiii]

For an EOT device, you can just use a flashing LED, resistor, and a diode tied to track power. The most expensive part is getting the power pickup installed on the truck for track power. The bonus is you don't run through batteries, which also gets expensive after a spell...

I'm thinking of picking up some of those tea lights that have the flickering LED, anyone ripped one of those apart to see what's inside?

To keep the cost down, I have been powering my passenger cars by making homemade track power pickups. I get metal wheelsets and wrap a stranded wire around each axle several times then solder a connecting wire to go into the passenger car. Only cost me the price of metal wheels with metal axles, the rest is free.
-Art

[gunrunnerjohn]

That's for HO, doesn't work for three-rail O-gauge. ;)

[Stillakid]

For center rail pick up, you could use a copper piece off the light switch in a "Cheapo" flashlight, insulate it, top and bottom, solder a lead and run the wire into the cab. As far as the outside rail, couldn't you do something like they use for HO? Another insulated piece that brushes the outside wheels.

[gunrunnerjohn]

Well, you could, but that sounds like more work than the $4.50 piece with the roller that you can snap into the Lionel trucks. :laugh: I like making stuff that's hard to find, but this one is easily solved using available parts. :D

[T-Man]

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For an axle wiper, I use a spring from a discarded tape measure. I have used it in HO also, but had to cut it down to size.
The dollar store has a tape measure, all you have to do is drop it once.:D

[tjcruiser]

T,

Neat strobe. I didn't know that one could cut into an LED without breaking it ... just a hard plastic shell, I guess.

You've mention the "dollar store" in several threads. Just how many dollars have you spent at the dollar store ?!? ;):D

TJ

[T-Man]

I get Goo Gone and Micro cloths at the store from your suggestion. The small bottle is handy.

I have not perfected the polishing. After sanding I use a leather piece on the dremel shaft with good results. Some tooth paste on cardboard may work but must take a lot of time.

The Xmas LEDs work with their little divet on top.

[T-Man]

I pieced together a board. Better it it tested the first time. No errors.:thumbsup: Lately I have been going through notes and making sure I have the neccessary information. It is easy to forget some of the finer points. I fine that I need to document a lot when I do one of these. Otherwis I am trying to read color codes on resistors. Yuk!

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/electronic/IMG_7452.jpg...http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/electronic/IMG_7451.jpg


http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/electronic/IMG_7453.jpg


In the diagram the connectors line up as viewed from the top

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/electronic/MarsLightFLasher.jpg

[T-Man]

The smaller version. I am getting neater with the solder iron. The trick is to use a sharp tip and a little solder.


http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/electronic/IMG_7459.jpg...http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr341/Railroad-Rob/electronic/IMG_7461.jpg


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[NIMT]

A little bit of paste flux will help the solder flow even better.;)
What also helps is solder blends, I use 62/36/2 blend for fine solder work!
and 60/40 for larger solder work.

[T-Man]

I'm using .032 60/40. The fine diameter helps along with practice. The pin sockets are a challenge I will consider your advice on the solder. I am thinking on geting a lower wattage iron. I have a 30 but I am looking for a finer hold. What do you think?

Now I working on a flame circuit. because I have the parts. The tea work just as well but I gotta do it. I tried previously and got frustrated with the pins. So I am getting better and even faster in deciding how to do a board. Converting a diagram to a pc board has been an experience. It is one of the reasons why I do a diagam to mimic the board.

[gunrunnerjohn]

You don't necessarily need a lower wattage iron, just a temperature controlled one. I have a 60W soldering station, but it has temperature control so I get the proper heat all the time.