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Old 06-10-2017, 12:08 PM   #11
flyboy2610
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Scales Modeled: HO, too blind and fumble fingered for N
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTValleyRR View Post
Perhaps you should start a support group: Kitbashers Anonymous.
I like that!
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Old 06-12-2017, 07:02 PM   #12
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Scales Modeled: HO, too blind and fumble fingered for N
I glued the side walls into place, then when they were dry I glued the back wall in. I trimmed both sides of the back wall to fit snugly against the boards of the side wall, keeping the center of the back wall aligned with the center of the rear shed wall. Doing it this way left no gaps in the rear corners. The back wall could have gone in first, then the side walls after they were trimmed to fit against the back wall. Doing it that way would leave a gap in both corners, because the back wall is not wide enough to reach both side wall of the shed.
Some trimming of the back wall legs was needed to align the boards. I think it came out pretty good.


After the back wall had dried, I installed the center partition. I had to trim the rear of the partition because of the back wall. The back wall has some nubs on the boards, which I assume are meant to represent brackets for the boards. The rear of the partition needs to go on each side of those nubs. I found it easier to use a Popsicle stick to spread the boards apart. Once in place, the stick was removed. Some shimming was needed to raise the partition to match up with the boards on the back wall.




Once the partition was dry, I installed the two front short walls. There will be a moveable gate on the left side of each of these walls.


Sometime during this process the center post on the center partition broke. A piece of .060" square styrene fixed that. This post will have the front roof beam glued to it. It's nice and sturdy now.


You may recall that the top front of each side wall of the shed has a notch for that beam to sit in.


After all the glue joints had dried, I gave it a touch up coat of gray primer.
The pens in this stockyard are not equal. The rear is divided into two pens, while the entire front half is only one pen.
I think I'll glue the roof beam in place next, then install the roof, after I paint the roof. Then the two front side wall, followed by the cross-pieces on top of the posts.
I hope this is helping someone!
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Old 06-15-2017, 12:20 PM   #13
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it's coming out real nice, but way too much work. I don't like Walthers kits because the directions leave a lot to be desired and
the kits never seem to go together without a lot of trimming and tinkering. Also, they are not cheap. Needless to say I don't
buy their models anymore. Good luck with the rest of that build.
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Old 06-15-2017, 06:16 PM   #14
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Thanks, Bob! Yeah, the directions do leave a lot to be desired. The directions for the packing plant I referenced in my opening post were pretty good, though. For the cost of this kit, I do wish the directions were better. Adding the back wall to the pens was my own idea.
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Old 06-16-2017, 01:42 AM   #15
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You're doing a fine job, looking good.
I did that kit a couple of years ago and agree about the instructions.
It was one of the first big kits I built and yours is looking much better than mine did.

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Old 06-16-2017, 11:47 AM   #16
CTValleyRR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob88 View Post
it's coming out real nice, but way too much work. I don't like Walthers kits because the directions leave a lot to be desired and
the kits never seem to go together without a lot of trimming and tinkering. Also, they are not cheap. Needless to say I don't
buy their models anymore. Good luck with the rest of that build.
Obviously, to each his own.

Personally, I have never, ever assembled a kit from any manufacturer without filing and trimming to ensure a good fit. And I personally don't find them that expensive considering the level of detail you get, especially when compared to some laser cut wood kits that cost in the hundreds of dollars. While the directions can be annoying, I have never not been able to figure one out.

But especially keep in mind that he's not building a "stock" stockyard, he's modifying it as he goes, so a lot of that work is self-inflicted. But if you ask me, that's part of the fun.
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Old 06-17-2017, 09:59 AM   #17
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The ordeal continues.
I decided to glue all the wall section in before hanging the gates and upper cross pieces in.
I glued the front wall into place.


Next I assembled and glued the right front side wall and the front wall of the alleyway. I use 3 90 degree welders clamps to hold wall sections in alignment as I glue them. The magnetic attraction of the clamps does a real nice job holding everything square and secure as the glue dries.


After these had been drying for about an hour, I checked on them. It was then that I realized I had done a boo-boo!
The brackets on the right side wall should be between the inner and outer boards of the front alley wall. Oops!
I'll just have Angus McBeefsteak stand in that corner to hide it!


I also installed the crossbeam for the front of the shed roof. Here's a pic so you can see how it fits into the notches in the upper sidewall, and how angle brace goes in front of the upright.


I assembled and glued the two sides of the stock car loading ramp. These will go on the left front section of the base, high side nearest the front.


This kit really hasn't been that bad, once I got the directions figured out. There are a couple of parts for the loading chute sidewalls that are mislabeled on the instruction sheet, and the #13 piece has a 12 cast into the plastic sprue above it. This is not a beginners kit, but by paying close attention to the instruction sheet it hasn't been too bad.
I definitely do recommend painting the parts before assembling. True, you will have to scrape or sand the paint off of the areas you will apply glue to, but you'd have a real tough time getting the areas between the boards painted after assembly.
I'm thinking of using dyed sawdust for covering the floor inside the pens. I have plenty of sawdust inside the bottom of my table-saw.

Here's a bull story for you:
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Old 06-20-2017, 07:04 PM   #18
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I've been chipping away at this thing, trying to get it done and off the workbench.
I glued the sides for the rail car chute, and glued on the inner side. In the process I broke the upright for the outer side, so had to repair that. Those uprights are pretty fragile, it doesn't take much to damage them.


On the right you can see the supports for the stock car platform. I glued those in place, then painted them flat steel with Testors enamel. I also painted the underside of the platform with it, and painted the top of the platform and the walkway with red oxide primer to give a painted board look.
I glued the platform in place, but had to trim down the areas where the supports were. Otherwise the platform was too high, and the walkway would not contact the platform and the lower stop. I'll have to see how this affect the height relative to the stock car door and go from there. I removed the paint from both ends of the walkway.


I glued the walkway in place. The upper end rests on the edge of the platform, and the lower end contacts the stop. With the platform at the original height, the lower end did not contact the stop, leaving a gap.


To the left of the stop, you can see a hole in the base and a bracket above it. There will be a small gate there. The bracket is more of a 'C' than an 'O', so the upper pin on the gate just flops out. The gate will not open and close. I will glue it in the closed position. Once the walkway was dry, I glued the outer side of the rail car chute into place.

This next part gave me a lot of trouble. There are two of these assemblies. These are the gates on the stock car platform that are positioned on either side of the car door to create a funnel for the cattle, so they can't walk off the side of the platform. There are three pieces: the outer gate piece, the inner gate piece, and the support piece. The inner piece is supposed to be sandwiched between the other two. The outer and support pieces have locating holes and pins. These match up fine, when the inner piece is not used. When the inner piece is used, the thickness of the assembly is too great for the pins to go into the holes. I thought maybe the inner piece is supposed to slide between the other two. Nope, can't do that either. The holes are where the top and bottom boards are. Of course, the instructions were of absolutely no help. Finally, I just trimmed down the sides of the inner piece, glued it between the other two and said good enough! I must have worked on this for at least an hour trying to figure out how to get that to go together.


Next I assembled the truck unloading chute. I painted the ramp the same as the walkway and platform, flat steel under neath, red oxide primer on top of the ramp. This went together without a hitch.




Now we get to start installing the crossbeams and gates. On the base, where the loading ramp for the packing plant will be positioned, the upper cross beam is shaped like an 'L', but with both sides equal length. There is also a gate on each leg, and each gate has an upper and lower pin. The upper pin fits into a hole in the crossbeam, while the lower pin fits into a hole in the base. I found it helpful to use a very small drill bit and open up the holes just ever so slightly. Now, you get to try to insert the 3 uprights into the 3 square holes in the crossbeam while trying to install the 2 upper pins and 2 lower pins, all at the same time! I didn't even try! Instead what I did what to cut a very narrow strip of green low tack painters tape, install the upper pins into their holes, and use the strip of tape to hold them into their holes. This gave me one less thing to worry about, and basically made the crossbeam assembly one piece instead of 3.


Installing this was still rather fiddly, but nowhere near as bad as it could have been! Once everything was in place, I cut across the top of the tape strip and peeled it off. Success!

Next I installed the crossbeam and gates on the stock car platform. It was a bit fiddly, but not too bad.
The steps on the right side of the platform do not show up on the instructions, such as they are! I figured out where they go by studying the box art.


I installed the walkway gate in the closed position. I don't intend to have cattle on the platform or in the walkway, so I saw no reason to have the gate open. The gate would be closed during movement of cattle from the pens to the packing plant, to prevent cattle from bolting up the walkway, so I glued it shut. I also installed a piece of .060" square styrene to act as a stop for the packing plant gate.


The gates do actually function.
Closed:


Open:


On the truck dock side of the yard, I had to use another piece of .060" square styrene to reinforce another wobbly upright.


This is about where the ramp will go. You can see the hole for the gate on the left side of the ramp.



A view of the front of the ramp.


I will need to cut part of the base away to allow the ramp to get up to the fence and still maintain the vertical alignment of the boards. When the ramp is placed on the base, the alignment is thrown way off.


Now it's just a matter of gluing in the crossbeams and installing the gates. The shed roof still needs to be installed as well. The .060" square styrene needs painted also. There's really not much left to do with this. I should get it all done this week.
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Last edited by flyboy2610; 06-20-2017 at 07:08 PM.. Reason: Needed it.
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Old Yesterday, 02:03 PM   #19
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I finished hanging the gates and crossbeams. The roof is glued on and the truck side of the base has been trimmed to allow the loading ramp to cuddle up to the wall quite nicely. I won't glue that into place until the floor covering and cattle have been added. Other than that, this is ready to go on the layout, just to get it off the workbench.







There are a few things I'm not completely thrilled with, but overall I think it came out OK. The base does have a bit of a twist to it, so it will be glued down with some latex caulk when it's time to permanently install it.
Now I need to set up the band saw and do some work on the wing joiners for my Great Planes PT60 RC plane. I've neglected that for too long now.
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