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Decisions regarding track

6K views 27 replies 5 participants last post by  gunrunnerjohn 
#1 ·
Hi All,

As I have mentioned in some other threads, I am new in the hobby and going
with O scale. I have purchased a nice MTH freight set with their RealTrax.
I am going with a freight yard theme and a before I make the investment for extra I wanted to use the correct type. I am considering dropping Realtrax and going with Atlas. Any input on this would be appreciated.

AlRoz
 
#2 ·
Well, the choice between RealTrax and Atlas is a no-brainer for me, I'd go Atlas! I have just started using it in our modular club, and it's pretty nice track. It's also easy to customize the track sizes, something that stuff like RealTrax and Lionel Fastrack make very difficult.

If you're buying everything from scratch, I'd consider Ross switches, they're a lot nicer than the Atlas ones. The Atlas switches aren't bad, but they're not Ross switches. :)
 
#3 ·
I agree with Gunrunnerjohn if money is not an object. Go with Ross switches and GarGrave track.

- Jason
 
#5 ·
I have never used a Gargrave switch. I've never seen one! I only use Ross switches! (When I have a layout.) I've heard Ross track is extraordinarily beautiful.

- Jason
 
#8 ·
Agree, but when I build my permanent layout, I will be using Ross switches/track because I'm going for fine detail.

- Jason
 
#11 · (Edited)
Yes definitely! :D

wait ,I tought you was a post war collector,there is no fine details in post war stuff, there just toy trains,at least thats what all the post war guys I know keep telling me,.............Mike
Yes I'm a postwar collector. Yes there isn't any detail! :laugh: I don't run most of my postwar b/c they are un-run. Running wise I prefer to run the newer diesels b/c of the detail and the ability to run them at real life speeds (at model size). (Newer Lionel for running, while I collect Postwar Lionel as show pieces) Don't get me wrong, I have many "runner" postwar lionel engines/cars. All the engines I restore I run. :) (I haven't posted any of them as of yet on my other thread.) I'll get to that soon.

- Jason
 
#13 ·
Hi Everyone,

Thanks for all jumping in I see some great input. Originally my plan and the store's plan was to set me up with Realtrax fro my freight yard however; looking at the investment here i believe i should go with Atlas. The yard drawing is based on Realtrax but the hobby shop it woul dnot take that much reorganizing. He also said Atlas was the way to go but did not mention Ross switches.

Alroz
 
#15 ·
I'm using Atlas switches on my modules for the modular club, and I've looked at those and the Ross switches. If I were doing a while layout, I'd go for the Ross switches. Atlas switches have a couple of issues you have to "tune" them to avoid. They have the cheap plastic insert to avoid the pickups getting wedged in the frog, and that has to be fine-tuned. Also, several of the center track segments have to be connected for reliable operation, sometimes they don't make contact.

Trust me, for a whole layout, use the Ross switches. :D
 
#16 ·
Hi All,

Ok, I just thought of something here. The MTH set I purchased came with their remote commander. Their lock-on connects to the realtrax for power then connects to the power supply. So If I go with Atlas track I am confused as to how i will now hook this up to be able to use the remote.

AlRoz
 
#17 ·
Not a problem. Just solder some wires to the rivets for the two slide-in contacts, then cover them with heat-shrink. You can connect the wires to the Atlas track.

The bonus is, if you ever want to use it with RealTrax again, just remove the wires and the heatshrink.

Also, I'd use the Remote Commander in passive mode, don't connect the track power through it. Just connect it to the track and the power directly to the track. Works fine and eliminates that tiny barrel connector trying to carry amps of current.

Here's an IR remote I modified as described, probably identical to the Remote Commander. I have a Remote Commander, but mine has banana jacks for the track connection.

 

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#18 ·
Hey gunnerjohn,
How are you? Well needless to say I am somewhat confused how this wiring is suppose to be done. Isn't there any other way around this? Do you think that the shop that I am dealing with would do this for me? I just do not want to mess something up in the remote equipment.


Thanks,
Alroz
 
#19 ·
I'm sure that someone can do this, if you look closely, all I did was stuff a wire through the rivet hole and solder it, not exactly rocket science.



What does the track connection you have look like? Like I said, the DCS Remote Commander I have doesn't have the prongs, it has banana jacks. Here's the set I have.

 

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#20 ·
Ok the above picture is what I have. So you are saying were the black and red connectors are, a wire on each needs to be soldered and the the other ends connect to the atlas track? Is the a special connector for the atlas track?
Thanks

AlRoz
 
#21 ·
NO! Those red/black terminals are binding posts, so you can just unscrew them a bit and you'll see a hole to thread the wire into, tighten them up and you're all set.

For the track, there are power connection track pieces, but most folks just solder to the track and run the wires under the layout, makes for a much neater installation. If you don't solder to the track, this is what the terminal section looks like.

 
#22 · (Edited)
ok cool now I got it. So this eliminates the soldering. I assume 16 gauge wire is needed?
This forum is awesome.
Will keep you posted on my progress. I am going to the shop tomorrow and going ahead with the atlas track so, as I now see what everyone has been saying, Atlas is a more realistic looking track.

AlRoz
 
#26 ·
The electrons don't care what color the wire is, any color will work. Remember, the transformer is connecting through a heavier wire, probably #16, but the DCS Remote Commander can connect with any size wire, no current will flow there, it's just the DCS signal. Remember, I mentioned NOT connecting to the power input terminal barrel jack, just run it in passive mode with a track connection. Works every bit as good and eliminates the flimsy barrel connector from the mix.
 
#27 ·
Will do thank you sir. I am going with Atlas track. I have the atlas yard design that I want to use but it is for an 8 X 12 I believe per the documentation. The hobby shop that I am dealing with said no worries, he will configure the design for my 6 X 10.
AlRoz
 
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