Hey folks, This will be my second build ever and im going for the gold...we'll not really but stepping it up no doubt.
Ill be sure to post pic updates as I go and ideas good and bad so stay tunned!
my issues so far are that Im using a ping pong table for my table so I wont be able to drill holes for wires after the fact...so this is going to require alot of pre planning other wise ill be digging literal ditches in foam later on....might make for a cool scenario scene but id rather not.
Nice to see the pics "at the beginning of creation". Thumbs-up on the "pre planning" motivation.
Just out of curiosity, is your intent to keep those two 4.5'x5' subpanels separate and modular? If so, I'd suggest through-bolting them together through their underside frames to keep them tight, yet still allow for eventual removal.
yup, I have them toe-nailed in for now, I might add a lag but I doubt it will be necessary unless one side gets pushed over past its tipping point.
its really frustrating knowing I wont have an easy second chance to get any wires fixed or moved once the track is down which gets me really wondering how on earth am I going to line everything up before the track is even laid....
we'll it appears I will be in the base stage for at least the next few weeks as I get the grades, and crazy amount of interchanging tracks with X crossings, 4 ways, turn table, lights and now a secondary table and ledge ill have to find away to get two tracks off the table for...Also decided I will have a below ground level clearance of around 6" for a possible river/ravine around the mountain area...
If any of you read my other thread in the layout ideas I had a slight change of heart. My scenery and landscape would be to hard to adapt to a war zone in such little space so I decided the next best idea (I totally understand if no one will get this..) a nazi-zombie apocalypse theme on the other side of mountain with a renegade nazi train..I will customize to have little zombie nazi's hanging off the side.
here's a few more pics, the next ones will show where my mountain bridges and tunnels will be..
Im a lot of pieces short especially short straight ones
and oddly enough I have copious amounts of turns and flex track
anyone wanna trade? haha
WOOT! I had no idea there were tracks to attach and detach cars automatically, I was greatly lucky to have a few of these in the bunch of re railers I was dusting off...Im pretty exited about that, each rail yard line will get one now. ( :
So please let me know what everyone thinks! any ideas? tips? I tried to use the anyrail 4 program but I have no idea what any of my tracks are (brand or size)..and computer's are not my thing
ok so no more nazi-zombies...having a hard time trying to adapt the war zone with such little space and to give it what it would need to be desent. I figured a zombie town would be easy and still fun so we'll see...
anyways I decided to take apart the ping pong top and mount my own panels in its place
got the foam glued down (went for 3" instead of 6")
and starting to get my layout down so I can chop up some cork for my mounds or "ballast"? is it
Went to the hobby shop today and found out 6 of my electric switch tracks are broken and they dont fix or sell rivets for it...so ill have to head to the hardware store tomorrow to find some rivets to put the switch back together
Also found out a good turntable is gunna cost me $250+ wired. yikess...:thumbsdown:
thanks goodness for the nazzi zombies. this is where it just completely killed the entire CoD for me. Guys at Treyarch, well done flushing a perfectly good game series down the toilet.
anywho back to trains
pictures of lumber are awesome. will really remind you how it all began
it seems to me that the underside is perfectly accessible. which is much beter then digging comminucation trenches in foam.
if you want to play with rail layout before gluing things down use sewing pins - nails are to short to hold the rail good. also think about hiding switch machines, IMHO looks MUCH better without.
and lets see more progress!
ADD
can anyone translate this for me please :laugh: :laugh:
Everything is looking awesome! That switch yard will keep it fun for sure. Just a heads up though, I have that exact same ping pong table, and the casters and aluminum straps wont hold up to much weight at all. They're very fragile.
thanks guys, yeah the ping pong table tops are about twice the weight of each sub panel I have and nothing else heavy will be going on top...it can also take me (150LB) jumping over it so I'm not too worried, I was however considering making a support bench for the middle of the two panels to go underneath.
and yeah I also plan to cover all rail switches and controls or anything not to scale with fake shrubs and debre.
That's funny you say that tank, me and my brother had bought a second TV and ps3 just for playing zombies. In fact I dont think I ever played the co op or story, just zombies (level 38 is our record on der reise) HAHA too funny.
we'll I bought more turnouts today but still need about 3 more, ill have to go back tomorrow.
I took my first run at 3d landscape with the heat shrink stuff
started to dig my river valley for the waterfall off the mountain, tunnels are being framed..
I just need my cork and fake gravel to then start nailing these tracks down permanently, once I get there I can then space out my round house and turntable as well as main station and rail yard...should the rail yard's tracks be raised? or just on giant gravel lot??
please as much advise given is greatly appreciated, I am over my head already but still having fun so....
I like the lumber idea, not a fan of coal cars personally, and really bummed out since I picked up a few real like coal tops that turned out not to fit...it was from the clearance rack so I cant return it:thumbsdown:
"fake gravel" is called "ballast".
i have all the spur tracks lower then main lines - glued to foam directly (see pic below) . just like in prototype this way you eliminate possibility of cars rolling into the main by accident .
also consider using flextrack - opens up radiuses other then precurved sections which will alow for "parralel running lines. ends up cheaper, less joints to worry about and it is really easier to work with then it might seem. you just need tool to cut them (i use dremel) and low power soldering gun/pen to join together (all my track is soldered aside of few insulator joiners).
PS
and i wouldn't glue that double crossover you have. it might look neat but consider whether you really need a double or if a pair of single ones one after eash other will do (and provide you with posibbility to runaround)
thanks tank, yeah I have been using the flex tracks and rail snipper for all my custom lil pieces and stright sections, never bothered with the subtle turns because its too much work cutting bending and linning up for a basic turn, although I can see how much cleaner it does look. hmmmm
yeah I removed the double cross and made two turnouts one north and south, doesnt look as neat but deff is alot smoother track and less hassle to instal....those things are a royal pain!
We'll I wanna go DCC and my shop is so far, anyone have a ball park price on the NCE powercab plus everything I would need? or a better brand for a better value? lol
am I going to need axtra power for a track this size?
and how much does each locomotive computer cost? (MSRP) and are they generic so any loco could instal one?
lols, compared to other aspects of modeling this is really nothing. its all just a matter of technique and just a ted of practice.
yep. as you found out, simpler track elements are just more reliable - less crossings the wheels make is less chance for things to derail. i played with a double and had nothing but troube. althoguh it was an atlas double and since then i completely moved away from atlas turnout products.
as for DCC question please read on our previous discussions in DCC forum. Bunch of info accumulated there, and looking stuff up is a good habbit to have. the topic can hardly be summarized. value of DCC systems is somewhat comparable, choice of which one you like will be based on features you want and shortcomings you willing to compromise on. at the moment it is mixed bag and i cannot name IDEAL system (went with NCE but it is missing several things i'd like). topic of decoders is easier - cant go wrong with digitrax or NCE, but do read up on functionality of various models
the NCE powercab said it did it all and up to 3 trains, and was $180 + a few $30-$50 add ons...other computer's.. sorry not sure what there called at the moment.
the MRC was $650 complete and didnt get to digi trax in comparrison
ill go check out the DCC threads now, still dont really understand it
but one train isnt what im into and for $650 I should really understand what im doing, hah.
this looks better already. at least to me. i would also consider swaping crossover sides (if your alyout alows it) to avoid S curves . as for DCC system powercab can be had new for ~155, same for digitrax zephyr and bit less MRC for prodigy express. you really need to compare apples to apples, 650 is probably for advanced system with wireles capability
oh wow, ok well disregard my Ebay question in the DCC forum...lol good to know thanks bro
I have done some research but starting to get a little frustrated....I think i need to take a break from the layout, its consuming my thought process haha
I want easy controls that are reliable and will have the ability to add all the bells lights and whistles as well as up to 6 locos
we'll I just decided to add another 4.5X8' section to the side to make a total 9.5X9'....the only problem is now I have to Rearrange the entire layout and wont have very good access to the back half of the table...I will have access but only by crawling under to a 1' opening so it might get tricky...
the good news is my rail yard has doubled in size and I gained almost double the long stretches for scenic routes and long freight trains (OOhhh Yeahh 20+ car time)
stay tuned, I should have the table built by tomorrow and Styrofoam glued down
quick update
I have the second table built and lagged into the other one...just getting the last piece of Styrofoam glued on
new dimensions are 10X9 - a little gap at one end
only the rail yard is nailed in place, all the other edge pieces are just loosely placed still
still trying to figure out where the turn table and round house will be and then ill cut my access panel in the middle
any tips or ideas on this one would greatly appreciated!
as you probably already found out, this kind of qarrangement calls for hatch in the center. otherwise it is unreachable. also, it seems you using layers of white bead foam. i would not use this material, and recomment all extrusion foam (either pink or blue)
why? the white stuff is much easier to work with, lighter, cheaper and comes in bigger pieces so less glue and work that's why I picked it....as you can see I use both but prefer the white
yup, waiting to cut my access panel to make sure I have my layout perfect...
I think ill be re arranging this one again...I really want a big rail yard but with middle mountains to have a scenic lumber yard/military base on the other side totally out of view from the freight yard...
I think you may be thinking of different stuff than what tankist is refering too. The pink and blue type foam comes in 4'x8' sheets and range from 1/2" thick to 2" thick. MUCH MUCH easier to work with than the white beaded foam stuff.
A suggestion on your new table, if I may ... you really should consider reinforcing the juncture between the 2"x4" and the table frame itself. As it is now, any minor kick to the bottom of the leg is going to knock the leg out of column, and risk tipping the table. I'd suggest some diagonal braces or triangular gussets in each direction at the top corners.
yeah the blue stuff at rona when I went were are all 2X8 X1.5" for the same price as one of those 1.5" 4X8 sheets of white stuff and there was none in any bigger size just thicker for more $.....and way too late now anyways
yeah the legs are actually braced inside the table and it is framed at the bottom...its not going anywhere
new layout idea....again only the rail yard is connected, not even nailed this time...bigger yard...less room to work out a the mountain and lumber yard
Looks cool. I tell you what though - I've got a duckunder (access hatch in the middle) of my layout and I wish I didn't have to duck under it every time I run the layout.
U-shaped with a big lift bridge would have been more convenient on a day to day basis.
Any reason your yard tracks don't run parallel? You'd pack more yard into a smaller space and probably could even get an extra track in there as well.
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