Just now physically getting started with designing a new layout but have been thinking about it for quite some time. I've taken a bunch of the track that I have laying around and laid it out on the floor to get an idea of how it might go together. Here are a few pics. Feedback is appreciated.
The space I am working with is apx 12' x 9'6". It could be a little bit bigger, but I want the layout to be manageable.
The main line is kind of an out and back with a loop at each end. half will be elevated. Hopefully you can follow the upper line as it heads over the bridge. I would like a continuous design for the main line and I suppose this is sort of there.
I haven't figured out the required grades yet.
Also, I would like to be able to run at least 2 two trains at once and think I've achieved that.
Yes, I do have two different types of track. My intent is to use O27 for the inner track which is where the yard is and the continuous loop is at. The outer track which circles around and goes over the bridge will be O. There will be one transition point between O and O27 just before the brown switch.
I don't have much O so I'll have to pick up some more.
Yeah I know all the track is mixed up right now. I'm just trying to get a general idea of how to lay the track and what track I need to purchase. Most of the O27 track is very rusty and I don't plan to use it anyway. Of the 6 switches I have shown, only the 3 manual ones work (2 O and 1 O27). The other 3 older O27 remote switches seem to be bound up, rusty and I haven't been able to get them to work yet. I haven't put much time in to them yet either.
Anyway, I plan to pick up the missing pieces so it all fits together nicely.
As far as the basement...it flooded when they were building the house before the the sump pump was installed.
Then you should lay all the O together and O/27 together to get an ideal of what more you need?
Do something I did not do, paint the walls before you build the layout.
If you plan on painting, I wish I had done that first.hwell:
You can clean the rust some, did you look at the track 101 link? There is more info on the this site about cleaning/tweaking track.
Don't use steel wool or sandpaper to clean.
Some leave the rust on the rail. The top and where the pins go should be clean and shiny.
I had a friend who rusted his track on purpose, if you look at real track it is rusted.
Did not look bad either, but you do need the tops clean to run the trains.
Try it a lot of rusty track and switches can be cleaned up nicely.
Yes he greased the tops and let the track sit out in the rain for a while to get that real look.
Afterwards he cleaned the grease off and cleaned the tops real good and built his layout. Afterwards he painted the center rail a flat black to try to hide the rail some.
Thinking back I think he weathered his switches as you don't want them out it the rain.
I wish I had a digital camera back then.
AnyRail has a free version and a $59 version that says for "unlimited size". i assume the free version has a limited size but I cannot find it stated anywhere. Do you know what that limited size is?
I'll give the track software a try and keep you posted on progress. I tried designing the layout using my SolidWorks software but that proved to be slow and painful so I aborted.
I decided to jump into putting up some benchwork. The track layout I'm working with is similar to what is on the ground. I started to design it using AnyRail but find it hard to get the inclines working right. I'll post what my plan is soon.
I finished the leg supports and laid the OSB. I was going to use 1/2" plywood for the surface but couldn't bring myself to spend $20 a sheet. I ended up with 1/2" OSB for about $8 a sheet.
Your benchwork looks great. Nice framing work ... light, strong, rigid. Those aren't just shims along the back wall, are they? Cleats for mounting something ... ???
A switch to transformers. I have a collection of older transformers that I have inherited over the years and am trying to determine if they will work for my model railroad, or if I need to upgrade to something newer or more powerful. Here is a pic of the collection:
Well, the 1033 is a decent little transformer, and the AF one looks OK, what's the wattage on that one? The others appear to be well suited for running accessories, which is what I normally keep small transformers around for.
For conventional operation, you'll need two transformers, or a dual-control transformer. I'd start with what you have and see if you feel the need to upgrade.
Actually, none of your transformers are dual-control. The second control on the 1033 is the whistle/direction control.
Transformers like the KW have two independent variable outputs for train control, each with a whistle control, see below. Note the two U connections and also the separate fixed voltage outputs for accessories.
Transformers like the Lionel ZW have four variable controls, though only two of them have whistle/direction switches. These have four variable outputs, the center two are normally used to power accessories, but can control additional trains as well since they are variable.
Getting ready to test my engines to see what grades they can handle, but having difficulty hooking up the Lionel 1033. I hook up U-A and cant seem to get anything (most of the time 0. When the black lever is straight at 12 o'clock I can sometimes vary the voltage with the red lever, but other times, its makes some crackling sounds, and at others (most of the time) nothing happens Seems like something is loose
Otherwise between A-B I have a constant 4.2 V and between A-C I have a constant 15.3V.
Well, the levers are on the wrong sides, the red one should be on the left. Leave the red one centered and move the black one to control voltage, the illustration below is full throttle.
There may be something wrong with the transformer, pop the top off with the four screws and take a look around.
I'll have to take a look into the Lionel 1033 but the AF seems to work great. I set up a little test rack for my son (almost 3 years old) because he has been waiting for "choo choos" to "go".
I've got the whistle covered with what I call a "whistle house". I've wired it up to the constant 16V output and put a push button switch (just to the left of the transformer) in line so when the switch is depressed, the house whistles
I set up a test loop track to get things moving a bit. Boy is it loud when the trains get moving on the table!!!
I've added a 4% incline (~4" over 9') switched off of the test track to see what my trains can pull. There doesn't seem to be much problem with 10 cars, but then again, that's all that will fit on the ramp.
Misc photo of some old rolling stock with just a few cabooses
I spent a little time trying to experiment with SRCAM and put together a track plan. The basic elements of the plan that I am trying to integrate are as follows:
- ability to run 2 trains simultaneously around continuous loops.
- operation running around one loop as very simple without the need for switching so it can just run for the kids and be easy.
- multi-level with bridges and tunnels
- 1st loop to pretty much be single level and travel around a city and train yard.
- 2nd loop to switch off the first and have inclined switch back 2 or 3 times to get to a mining operation at the 'top'.
The plan pics are a bit messy but here a few screenshots:
Just a heads up to all ... SCARM software, not SCAM
Be mindful of those very abrupt topography (ground elevation) changes inherent to your proposed layout. Doable, of course, but you're likely looking at a steep, rocky cliffside look, rather than a grassy hillside look.
I'm concerned with the turn around loop at the end of the run and not sure if it will work that well...anyone have experience with them or have thoughts? I suppose the alternative is to run a double track...sort of an out and back but that seems less efficient and uses a bit more space and track.
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