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Great Northern 25' wooden caboose kit build

16K views 148 replies 13 participants last post by  Magic 
#1 ·
Hey guys. Thought Id start a build thread for this. Im not sure if this is the best forum to post this but if it isnt the staff is welcome to move it.

Going to build this GN HO caboose for my future layout. With any luck at all its going to have working lights too. Everythings here but the decals. Aiming for a mid to late 30s version so it will have to be modded somewhat and will have paint adjustments made.

No guarantees how fast or slow this happens but Ill check in with progress from time to time.



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#3 ·
Ive decided I will build the 1940 version after all just because I prefer the look of it.
Thats what the kit is so it wont require the mods. Just the proper combo of decals (which im accidentally going to have 3 sheets to use from now!) Itll be left with fresh paint and little weathering, like it practically just left the shop with its updates.

Couple more things on the way for this project. Im replacing the metal trucks with nice plastic ones to avoid the risk of electrical shorts. I also have some wheel wiper pickups shipping at this time. I like these because of the perfectly sized insulators which allow for power off of all wheels instead of only using one side on each truck. Should work real well.
Have an interior kit and reference sheets ordered from GNRHS and on the way. Should have some time next week. Hope to hit the ground running. Will likely be modeling x582 but not in stone yet.

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#6 ·
Well its underway. I cut out the subwalls for it tonight and glued them together. (Then it officialy hit me how small a 25' HO caboose is. )





After a dry fit, I used Titebond original wood glue. Its good stuff but you dont have alot of working time with it. Especially when applying it thin.

I applied glue with a toothpick to the tabs and slapped the walls together quickly. Good tight fit. Was careful not to glue the walls to the floor so the body can lift off later. I then applied some extra glue to the corners inside to beef it up a bit.

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#9 ·
First the ends. You can lay it down lightly to get things lined up and then final press in across surface. The ends required very minor sanding at a couple locations to get them flush.
Then I blew it off with a can of air and applied the sides.





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#13 ·
Thanks! Yeah its real easy snapping pics with my phone and posting them using tapatalk along the way. Dont have to move from the bench. Its interesting for my own reference too. Hopefully it ends up being a decent review of the products involved.
So far this Laserkit is awesome. The parts are cut to extremely close tolerances considering the materials.

Back at it soon.....

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#14 ·
Ok, cupola sides are cut out. They get pressed together as well. Heres one side installed and the rest waiting to be joined.



Then the ends slide in real nice against the side windows.





While trying to get that last shot in good light it fell off the bench and bounced on the floor! It was only a matter of time. Managed to bend and nearly break 3 out of the 4 roof braces sticking out at the corners. We'll see how this screw up plays out.

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#15 ·
Cupola installed. Did what I could to glue the thin side ends sticking out. The adhesive backing they have saved them for the most part.



As things get added I continue to think about at what point would be best to start priming and painting. Im going to do it before windows are added.

May have to look ahead at how many adhesive items are left. I dont want to prime a base that needs a sheet attached such as the roof.

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#16 ·
For now, going to keep installing. I dropped the floor out and believe I can still paint fine with the base roof sections on. These are nicely laser etched for interior detail simulating boards, even on the inside.




Here they are set in place. These get glued down. Keep in mind the top surface of these are not the finished surface. They fit perfectly in the previously installed roof former slots.



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#17 ·
Glued contact spots. Also glued around the top edge of the body.



And the roof his held into its curved shape with rubber bands as it dries.



The sheets gave me a surface to brace the pieces of trim that bent. I wont win any awards for the glue job but they shouldnt be going anywhere now.


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#19 ·
Next, cut out the roof ends. Theyll help hold the shape of the roof. Theres holes that have to go the right way for ladders. The directions dont mention this.





In the next step I see I get to cut out what theyre calling letterboards. Rails that run along under edge of roof which will cover up the ends that got bent. Thankfully.

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#20 ·
Letterboard strips with adhesive backing. Not the smallest trim pieces involved by far.



Have been dragging my feet while glue dried. Might let it sit for a while before I take off the rubberbands. Even though they probably could come off right now, theres no need to rush it.

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#22 ·
Last update for today. Rubberbands off. Trim pieces are on. Theres a little shadowing where edges of the roof need to be sanded a bit.





The next step is putting windows and doors in. At this point I may go ahead and paint the interior and exterior red when I get back to it.

Does anyone think it would be a good idea to prime the whole thing before paint? Or should I just paint it? Will be using an airbrush so itll be done in moments. Either way will be quick. I dont think it would hurt to prime it. Or should it just get two coats of paint?

Going to be taping regardless. Will have the roof to paint black and clear coat to spray at the end.

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#24 ·
Thanks! I may do some painting tonight yet. In the mean time, the streamlined backshop wipers/pick ups came In today. Looks like the Atlas ones will work best for these trucks. If they stick out a little I can trim them.

The rings are insulating rings to separate them. Notice the nice solder points. These will safely allow all 8 wheels to pick up power. Probably the best $5 spent on this project.



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#25 ·
Ok, im back at the bench this evening. Looking ahead, Im not going to be able to paint just yet. Bunch of window trim to do yet.
The plan right now is, install exterior trim. Leave windows out. Tape off roof. Prime. Spray interior white. Spray exterior caboose red. Install roof sections. Tape lower portion off. Spray roof black. Install windows, doors.



My goal is to make the interior somewhat realistic, despite an inevitable rats nest of wires in a small area. At least the inside color will be correct.


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#26 ·
Trim pieces below cupola windows require a pair of tweezers and a steady hand.
These have peel off backing too. At first glance, you wouldnt think pieces this thin would have enough backing to stick but they do. Its almost like a glue that sticks to the paneling better than I wouldve expected.


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#27 ·
Rear end window trim installed and a door. Door sill added below door. A little dissapointed with the directions on the door. They dont tell you how to install it or how to put together.

I though it needed to stick on inside but the opening and the door are almost identical size. I ended up pressing it into the opening. Its so tight it probably doesnt even need glue. Its not big enough to stick on either face. I did not add the window to back of door yet for painting.




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