Installing different types of decoders in different types of locomotives - Model Train Forum - the complete model train resource
Model Train Forum - the complete model train resource  

Go Back   Model Train Forum - the complete model train resource > Model Train Workshop > DCC Forum (Digital Command Control)
Forgotten your password?


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-17-2010, 11:25 PM   #1
gc53dfgc
Station Master
 
gc53dfgc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Oh
Posts: 2,608
Scales Modeled: HO, O, G, N, OO
Images: 11
Installing different types of decoders in different types of locomotives

The Schedule

AHM SW1 - 20-25 Decoder to be installed - Digitrax DH123D FINISHED

Bachmann GP38 - 23-24 Decoder to be installed - Digitrax DH123D FINISHED

Athearn C44-9W - 22-26 Decoder to be installed - Digitrax DH123D the DH123AT can be used but by installing the DH123D more flexibility is created. FINISHED

Bachmann SD40-2 Decoder installed- Soundtraxx Tsunami TSU-1000 EMD 645 Sound Decoder - New ditch lights being installed and then completed.


Bachmann Spectrum Series 44 ton switcher - 20-31 Decoder to be installed DZ123 (Needs a new decoder after last two fried then it is done)(this will be the hardest to install because there are two motors in the engines insted of one and that there is not a lot of space to add the new decoder over the old PCB)




One of the four Digitrax DH123 DCC decoders to be installed.



The one Soundtraxx Tsunami TSU-1000 DCC sound decoder to be installed.

On Wed 22,2010 I will start the assembly of the new decoders into all the locomotives.

Went to the my local hobby shop and decided to pick up a DZ123 from Digitrax to install into the 44 ton switcher due to space issues i was having. This decoder was meant for a Z scale engine but I figured I would give it a shot. This now leaves me with an extra DH123D so what locomotive do you all think the new DH123D should go into on my projects that are reserved for later?



The new DZ123 Z scale decoder.

__________________________________________________ __________________
Dec 23, 2010
Today I got another locomotive upgraded to DCC. though there is a few touch up things I must do to it and the SW1. Depending on if I can find my fathers Dremel or not I should have another locomotive or two done by tommorrow.

I will update this thread as more progress is done on the engines.
__________________
<----- One day I am going to build one of those trains

Last edited by tankist; 07-11-2011 at 04:43 PM. Reason: Edited per request
gc53dfgc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2010, 12:53 PM   #2
gc53dfgc
Station Master
 
gc53dfgc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Oh
Posts: 2,608
Scales Modeled: HO, O, G, N, OO
Images: 11
Installing a Digitrax DH123D DCC decoder in a(n) AHM EMD SW1 Switcher.

This is where I will be posting about how to install a Digitrax DH123D DCC decoder into a(n) AHM EMD SW1 Switcher.

First Step,
Examen the insides of your loco and plan out where the decoder will go.



Engine with shell on.


Engine with shell off. Note that there is no motor in this unit. this is because the original motor was having trouble and I decided to fiddle with it and lost the springs so I had to buy another one off of ebay to get a replacement motor. I will also be going over how to install the new motor into the SW1 as well.


Here is an idea where the decoder will be sitting originally before I decided that the motor would have to be placed near the front of the engine do to a very important wieght being in the cab section.



The locomotive where I got the new motor from.



I took the replacement motor out and made the motorless engine a dummy.

Step Two



You need to solder the white wire from the original train to the (negative) black wir from the DH123D harness.

Step Three



Next solder the red pickup wire from the original engine to the red (positive) wire of the DH123D decoder.



Note that I have cut the violet and green wires to almost the 9 pin easy connector. This is because the DH123D does not use the green and violet functions so there is no need for extra wires.

The first most important part is finished.

Step Four




Solder the grey wire from the decoder to either side of the engine it does not matter which side as you can set the decoder to fix the problem if the train goes cab last and not front.




Then solder the orange wire from the decoder to the other metal piece of the motor opposite of the one that the grey wire was soldered to. You have now completed the wiring of the DH123D to run the engine of the DCC locomotive.

Step Five
Note that the instalation guide for the decoder and the lights are only for a front headlight setup only, not a rear light as this was not how the original AHM SW1 came and I did not want to change how original it was if possible.



Solder the white wire to the bulb holder if you intend to do a forward and reverse light setup. Otherwise it does not matter if you solder the blue (common) or the white (forward bulb wire) to this clip.



Next solder the blue wire (common) of the decoder to the wavy piece of metal that goes to the light bulb. An optional thing that I did was because of my SW1 was the rarer of the two types that had a brakeman on the front and would hold a lamp that lights up. It is true that one could wire it to work with the reverse setup and you would do it that way. Since the original was a both headlight and brakeman on constant I decided to set it up for forward operation for both and simply soldered one brake man wire to the white wire (forward headlight) and the other brakeman wire to the blue (common) of the decoder so it would turn on when going forwards.

Step Six



Reattach the shell of the engine and make sure the decoder fits, works, and does not interfere with the engine operation. I have had to remove the rear weight and cut off some plastic that holds the rear truck to the frame. I will be finishing the install by cutting some of the inside shell off to make more room and cutting the top part of the weight off and putting the two side peices back in as at the moment it can only pull about three to four cars. This is caused because of the lack of weight over the drive wheels.

You are now finished with the installation of a Digitrax DH123D decoder in a(n) non DCC ready AHM EMD SW1 with brakeman figure, Or without what ever model you have. One tip, for this install being my first I managed to cut the wires to long and soldered them this way. this makes it harder to make the DH123D fit into the already cramped engine therefore I recomend cutting the wires as short as you possibly can.
__________________
<----- One day I am going to build one of those trains

Last edited by gc53dfgc; 12-22-2010 at 07:26 PM.
gc53dfgc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2010, 01:07 PM   #3
gc53dfgc
Station Master
 
gc53dfgc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Oh
Posts: 2,608
Scales Modeled: HO, O, G, N, OO
Images: 11
Installing a Digitrax DH123D DCC decoder in a(n) Bachmann EMD GP38.

This is where I will be posting about how to install a Digitrax DH123D DCC decoder into a(n) Bachmann EMD GP38 Motive Power.

First Step,
Examen the insides of the engine and figure out where you are going to place the DH123D decoder.



The engine with the shell on.



The original board where the DC PCB is installed on the loco.



A side veiw of the engine where you can see the motor and how limited space is on it.



Do to the limited amount of space on the GP38 I will have to grind down a large peice of the wheight that is over the rear truck and will instll the DH123D there. Sorry about the fuzzyness of this picture, I will try to take a new one.

Wednesday Dec 29, 2010
I started the grinding away for a spot to install the decoder into the GP 38 today and am about halfway finished.

Second Step


Here is a picture of the engine after I have grinded out the space required for the new DH123D decoder. Not that the rear truck pick up is not wired it was originally and I later reattached the pick up wires to the truck after finding out it would be safe and due to power pick up issues.

Third Step: TRUCK PICK UP AND WIRING

Step One




Prepare the black and red wires from both the front truck and the decoder for soldering. Secondly twist the red wires from the front and rear truck together for easier soldering to the decoder wire. Note you will need to lengthen the rear truck wires to make it up to the front of the engine.

Next you are going to want to slide shrink tubing over the wires to be soldered and move them as far away from the point to be soldered as possible. Now solder the two wires for both the red and black that were twisted together to there respective wires of the decoder (black and red). Next you are going to need to slide the shrink tubing back over the newly soldered point and heat it to make it a permant fix.

Fourth Step: MOTOR WIRING
Step One.

You need to prepare the motor area for the conversion to DCC by tapeing every area that the motor's metal parts is going to touch, you can use electrical tape to safely do this. You do this to ensure that the motor does not short on the chasis body destroying the decoder.





After prepareing the motor area the next step is to prepare the motor positive (red) and negative (black) wires to the decoder orange (positive) and grey (negative). It does and does not matter that the wires correspond with their currents at this point as the headlights wires can be switches to fix directional lighting issues or just switching the motor wires with each other will fix this as well. You need to put shrink tubing over these wires and move it as far away as possible then soldering together the wires and placing the shrink tubing back over it. Then heat the tubing till it is fully shrunk around the solder points.

Fifth and sixth Step

The fifth and sixth steps include adding the front headlight and the rear light to the engine and decoder.


Prepare the bulbs wires by cutting them to size. Next prepare the White (front headlight) wire by cutting it to the proper length and stripping the end of the wire. Then prepare the bare ends of the wires by adding flux and sliding the proper length shrink tubing over the wire and as far away from the solder point. Next solder the white wire to either one of the bulb wires. Slide the shrink tubing over the solder point and then heat it until it is fully shrunken.



Next you need to prepare the blue (common) wire. The Blue common wire must go to both the front and rear headlight. There is not enough length of wire from the harness to go to the front then to the rear light. So you will need to cut the blue wire as close to the decoder as you are comfortable with (you will have to solder at this point in the future so be wise about the cutting.) You are then going to take the wire you just cut off the blue wire and take one end and measure it to the front headlights extra wire and cut it at this point. leave a little extra wire just in case. The next step is to prepare the blue wire end at the harness the end that will go to the front light and the one that gos to the rear light. Place the flux and one shrink tubing piece on the wire for the harness. WARNING: Do not place the shrink tubing over the wire that goes to the front or rear light. You will not be able to slide it back over the solder point. You are going to solder the two wires from the lights to the harness as one piece, you are then going to move the shrink tubing from the harness over the solder point and shrink it to make a secure and safe wire. Next solder the other end of the wire that goes to the front light to its respective wire makeing sure to put a piece of shrink tubing to the blue wore and then moving it back over the solder point. This completes the front headlight leaving us with just the rear light to finish.


The front light after completion.

The Rear Light

By gc53dfgc at 2011-01-12
You are going to solder the yellow wire (rear light) to the bulb once you have trimmed it to size and put a peice of shrink tubing over it. After soldering the yellow wire slide the shrink tubing over it and then shrink. You are then going to solder the blue wire that is for the rear light to the other bulb wire after you have put a piece of shrink tubing on the wire. The move the shrink tubing back over the solder point of the blue wire and shrink.



Bulb after final soldering.

This completes the install of the DCC decoder into the Bachmann GP38 engine. The only step left is to plug the decoder in and reattach the engine shell.


This is the engine fully switched to DCC and tested without the shell on.


Note that this is the standard line which is commonly reffered to as there jucnk line. After adding the decoder to the engine while it will not run at a prototypical 1-5 miles per hour it runs very smoothly and quietly when it does start moving. So I see no problem with this engine. I did clean off all the drive wheels with rubing alcohol and lubed up everything. I would think that if I had decided to clean the brushes as well it would run at the prototypical 1-5 miles an hour that the real engine could run at.

I hope to in the next week or so get a video of the DCC engines i have installed decoders in so far so you all can see that they do indeed run.
__________________
<----- One day I am going to build one of those trains

Last edited by tankist; 07-11-2011 at 03:22 PM. Reason: Edited as Requested
gc53dfgc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2010, 01:17 PM   #4
gc53dfgc
Station Master
 
gc53dfgc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Oh
Posts: 2,608
Scales Modeled: HO, O, G, N, OO
Images: 11
Installing a Digitrax DH123D DCC decoder in a(n) Athearn GE C44-9W or Dash 9.

This is where I will be posting about how to install a Digitrax DH123D DCC decoder into a(n) Athearn GE C44-9W or Dash 9 Motive Power.

First Step,
Examen the insides of the engine and decide where the DH123D is going to be installed.




A picture of the engine with the shell on.




The engine with the shell off exposing the simplistic design of the Athearn.




Because space is no issue here I can install the decoder in either the front of the unit or in the rear. I was thinking the front but decided on the rear because of how long the wire harness actually is for the DH123D.

Step Two
Prepare the chasis of the engine by removing the motor (do this very carefully to avoid damage), the two rubber motor mount grips, the long silver center peice of metal (this can be disregarded if you are installing the decoder the same way I have), and the front headlight mount.

Step Three


After the engine chasis has been preped you then need to cut bothe the green and violet wires to almost the bare 9 pin harness.

Step Four


Fourth you will solder the black wire (negative) from the decoder to the rear truck's metal pick up where the long metal clip used to pick up power. I went a little bit further with this install then is needed by soldering a black wire from the rea truck pick up to the front truck pick up to ensure a steady supply of power to the decoder.

Step Five


To solder the red (positive) wire of the decoder to the rear truck you must take off a few peices of the drive shaft so as to not accidently melt them as you solder the red wire to the center plate of the engine. Note I did not notice this metal peice when I first started the insatllation. Whe I originally started I tried to solder the red wire directly to the chasis where the positive motor pick up used to be but this does not work as the chasis is made of a type of metal that will not hold solder. This metal piece on the truck was hard to discover at first and was only found because I got to thinking how on earth the center part of the chasis was getting positive power and figured it had to be coming from the wheels. As it turned out there was indeed a pick up for the positive side and the metal plate rubs against the chasis suppleing power to the motor. This is probably why some Athearns will stutter when running. you can simply solder a wire from the pick up to the motor for DC versions to help improve on this slight flaw. Note this does not stop power from flowing through the chasis so the motor must still be isolated. You can also do the same with the red wire as I did with the black but I opted not to as I did not have enough wire and this would crowd the engine with the shell on even further.

The first important part of the install is finished.

Step Six


We now move to the front of the engine where the forward light is housed. This part gets complicated as you should remove the entire light housing from the frame. This includes the brass negative power pick up rod, the silverish metal piece that suplies positive power to the bulb, and the black piece that holds the bulb, silver pick up and the brass power pick up rod.
To remove the silver power pick up you must pry it off. Since you have pried off the power pick up you now need to cut the silver pick up so that only the hollow square is left. You will also have to cut the brass power pick up in about half so that it does not touch the front truck negative pick up. Now that we have all the pieces tooken care of we can begin soldering. You need to solder either the white (forward) or the blue (common) wire from the decoder to the brass power pick up. I chose blue.

Step Seven


Next you will need to solder the white or blue wire from the decoder to the silver pick up square. I chose the white wire but this will have no effect either way.



You can now finally reassemble the front headlight assembly.
Note that there is a round black peice in some Athearns that holds the bulb and acts as a directional piece. Since we have gotten rid of the silver peice that used to support the entire assembly you will need to either try Testors plastic glue, CA, or super glue and glue this piece
to the front headlight lens piece.

You have now completed another important part of the DCC install (the headlights)

I want to add that in some athearn models there can be a reverse light. for this type you will do the same as described only switch out the white for yellow wires from the decoder.

Step Eight


You now need to very very carefully remove the top copper piece that is on the top of the motor. Be carefull as to not go launching the springs from the motor as I have done many a time. Take this piece and solder either the grey (motor positive) or orange (motor negative) wore to this peice. DO NOT REASSEMBLE THE MOTOR AT THIS POINT!

Step Nine


Now carefully turn the motor over being sure not to loose any of the brushes. You now must remove the positive copper motor pick up. This piece has to metal prongs that stick out and would for DC touch the chasis since this is to set it up for DCC/DC operation you must chop these two prongs off. You can then solder the grey or orange wire to this copper piece.

Step Ten

gc53dfgc
Now we will begin reassembly of the motor. First carefully place a spring (and a brush if you removed these as well or if they fell out) into the Brush holder and replace the copper positive pick up at the same place you removed it from earlier.



Now flip the motor back over and place a spring and any applicable pieces back into the brush holder. Then carefully put the negative pickup back on. (This is the one that did not have the two prongs on it.)



You must now place the two rubber motor mounts you removed earlier onto the motor itself and place the motor back into its original place. I recomend before doing this step to place ideally a pice of electrical tape to where the old positive motor power pick up prongs used to touch but regualar scotch tape works as well. You should not need this but this ensures an isolated motor.
NOTE. Be very care ful when you put the motor bach in place and reconnect the front and rear drive shafts. I broke a peice of the rear shaft while trying to refit it. You may have to take the trucks off to reinstall the motor. Now place the front headlight assembly into the black holder you had glued to the front headlight lens earlier. now carefully plug the decoder into the harness and tuck the loose wires up towards the roof of the shell and reatach the shell.

You Have now finished the wireing of your DC engine to run in DCC, Test it out and have fun.

I have tested mine and everything works fine and even better than it did in DC so this install guide should create no problems with your engine if you have followed all steps acordingly.



This peice can be disregarded or saved for parts for other DC Athearns.

I will eventually be getting the Digitrax DH123AT and will be installing it in yet another even older Athearn and might do a DCC install on it as well.
__________________
<----- One day I am going to build one of those trains

Last edited by gc53dfgc; 12-23-2010 at 07:22 PM.
gc53dfgc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2010, 01:28 PM   #5
gc53dfgc
Station Master
 
gc53dfgc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Oh
Posts: 2,608
Scales Modeled: HO, O, G, N, OO
Images: 11
Installing a Digitrax DH123D DCC decoder in a(n) Bachmann Spectrum GE 44Ton Switcher.

This is where I will be posting about how to install a Digitrax DH123D DCC decoder into a(n) Bachmann Spectrum Line GE 44 Ton Switcher Yard Engine.

First Step,
Examen the insides of the Bachmann Spectrum GE 44 Ton Switcher and plan where the DH123D DCC decoder will be installed.




Engine with the shell on.




The engine with the shell taken off to expose the insides of this intricate switcher. Note that this switcher has two motors intead of the normal one. While this greatly improves pulling power this also makes the install of the Dh123D more complicated and compact.




For the placement of the DH123D I am planning on putting it in the center or on one of the sides. there is currently no extra space in this engine so I will have to grind away a lot of the wheight to make room for the decoder. This limit on space will also increase the amount of difficulty that I will have installing the DH123D DCC decoder.

__________________________________________________ ___________________________
Had a major mishap today and fried the DZ123 decoder for the 44 ton switcher. I have not figured out if it was the fact that I had two different pickup points or the fact that I am wiring it up for two motors. I am thinking it was the first one and am going to the train store tommorrow to get another one. Other than that I have to install the two lights and it will be finished. Then I will upload the install guide for this engine.

More updates to come...
__________________
<----- One day I am going to build one of those trains

Last edited by gc53dfgc; 12-30-2010 at 07:09 PM.
gc53dfgc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2010, 01:48 PM   #6
gc53dfgc
Station Master
 
gc53dfgc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Oh
Posts: 2,608
Scales Modeled: HO, O, G, N, OO
Images: 11
Installing a Soundtraxx Tsunami TSU-1000 sound decoder into a(n) Bachmann EMD SD40-2

This is where I will be posting about how to install a Soundtraxx Tsunami TSU-1000 DCC sound decoder into a(n) Bachmann EMD SD40-2. I will also be installing ditch lights from Details West and adding three new see through 36'' radius radiator fans to the back.

First Step,
Examen the insides of the loco to decide where to install the TSU-1000 sound decoder. I cannot stress enough how important it is to take the time to plan out the install of this decoder because of how intricate and expensive this decoder and it's components are.




The engine with the shell on.




The engine with the shell off. Note again on this engine that space is a limited thing on this Bachmann and that there is no motor or original DCC decoder. The original motor was running roughly so I tinkered with it and didn't think much of it that I had the DCC controller still powering the track while I was working on it. A BIG NONO! So this then fried the circit board and then I managed to loose one of the springs to it so I am waiting on a replacement motor from Bachmann.




This is where I plan to install the TSU-1000 on the engine towards the front. Because of space I will have to grind away a lotof the weight on the top but this is okay as it does not interfere with the drive mechanisms and there will still be enough weight.

Step Two,
Decide where the Speaker and Capacitor thing a ma jig will go (I will update the real meaning of the black thing a ma jig when I find out what it's called.)




I have drawn where the speaker and decoder will be placed on the engine and where and how much weight I need to grind away.

__________________________________________________ ___________________________
Dec 21, 2010
Today I got the final peices for the SD40-2 install. The speaker, speaker enclosure, and the new raidiator fans came in.


The new radiator fans.



The Soundtraxx speaker.



The speaker enclosure.



The final layout plan of where the components for the SD40-2 will be installed.


Where the new fans will be installed.

__________________________________________________ ___________________________
Wednesday 22,2010

I picked up the final pieces required for the SD40-2 as well as the other engines from my local hobby shop.


The #74 drill bits required to install the ditch lights in to the engine.



A pair of new LED's and resistors to be installed into the SD40-2


Finally the shrink tubing required to properly insulate the new wireing in all the engines


More updates to come...
__________________
<----- One day I am going to build one of those trains

Last edited by gc53dfgc; 12-22-2010 at 02:46 PM.
gc53dfgc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2010, 01:50 PM   #7
gc53dfgc
Station Master
 
gc53dfgc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Oh
Posts: 2,608
Scales Modeled: HO, O, G, N, OO
Images: 11
How To Make A FRED for DCC

This is a simple how-to on adding a FRED to a train car that I did.




Here is the car in question.




Here is the car taken apart and the FRED to be installed. I got the FRED from a Halloween toy, it blikned just like a FRED so I decided to take the toy part off and install it into a freight car. I had to cut most of the battery holder and extra plastic to make it fit.

Firts Step,



Make a hole in the end of the car with an exacto knife.

Second Step,




Make sure the new FRED fits and then resolder any connections that may have came loose.

And your done. A perfectly blinking FRED for a DCC layout.
__________________
<----- One day I am going to build one of those trains

Last edited by gc53dfgc; 12-21-2010 at 07:13 PM.
gc53dfgc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2010, 01:52 PM   #8
gc53dfgc
Station Master
 
gc53dfgc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Oh
Posts: 2,608
Scales Modeled: HO, O, G, N, OO
Images: 11
Installing a DCC decoder into a(n) Bachmann Trolley

This is the install guide for a Bachmann PCC trolley or street car with a DH123D decoder.

The streetcar before the DCC instalation has begun.

The insides of the streetcar before DCC has been installed.


First Step,
Examen the insides of the streetcar to locate where the decoder will go.
I have chosen the front roof area. I glued the decoder into place with medium CA adhesive.



Second Step,
The first thing to do in the Bachmann trolley is to remove the wireing from the DC pickups, then remove the wires from the motor altogether while leaving the the metal clips that are screwed into the motor frame. Then Undo the soldering where the wires are soldered into the motor and pickup pieces. Save the bulbs and all of their wiring, the rest of the wire can be discarded.

These are the front pickups of the streetcar.

Third Step,
The third step is to install the wire harness black and red wires for the decoder to the front pickups. I later discovered after much fidling that the rear engine has pickups as well. You can simply solder the + - wires into those metal screwed in clips I mentioned earlier or just solder it on to one side of the frame and one to the other side.

Firstly prep the harness wires by cutting them to length and the prepareing them for solder.

Then solder the harness red and black wires to the front streetcar truck.

It is important that you keep the red and black on the same sides of the front as the back if you decide to use dual pickups.
You then want to slide the front pickup truck and the harness back into the plastic body. It will not be removed anymore throught the rest of the instalation. This completes the front and or rear power pickups.

Fourth Step,
The next step is to solder the orange (+) amd grey (-) wires of the harness to the motor. The first step is to prep the wire harness wires to length and prepare them for solder. The original wires are black and red thus telling you the proper + - for proper forward movment when DCC is installed.

You must remove the side of the metal motor frame where the brush springs are located. You will see two metal prods coming off of the brush housing down to the two lower screws that keep the tention, you will then find a metal prod on each screw area that touches the metal frame. It is absolutly crucial you bend these metal ends off while still leaving the brush bracket and screws in place. If this is not done the motor will short out frying the decoder. You then can reinstall the metal housing and then solder the two wires directly to the tops of the brush holders that are exposed. If you paid attention to the metal prongs and what side of the frame they touched and the corresponding wire you can correctly wire the motor so it will work with forward and reverse lights properly on the first try. The motor and wires are then slid back into the plastic frame and will remain there for the rest of the install so this part is now done.

Fifth Step,
The fifth step is to wire the forward and reverse lights into the wire harness.
It really does not matter where you place the forward or reverse light in the two plastic lamp holders if you are planning to do an all on setup which provides the proper and original allumination of the streetcar before the DCC install.

You can see my original motor wiring mistake in this photo as well as the start of preping the lamp wires. You will want to cut them to length for their respective placement in the shell. You need to twist the two red lamp wires together and solder them to the blue common wire while making sure to use heat shrink tubing that can be slid over and shrunken later for a safe and secure solder.



You then need to solder the black (-) wire to the white forward (-) wire from the harness and also using shrink tubing for this one as well.

The last bit of soldering is the reverse black (-) lamp wire to the yellow reverse (-) wiring from the harness also using shrink tubing.
The old tape that held the lamp in has most likely gone bad and so simple electrical tape cut to sive will hold them in properly.

Final Step,
The last and final step is to slide and coax all the wiring, plastic light piece, lamps, and the plastic body all back into the shell and then screwing the body back onto the shell by the one middle black screw. Then you must test it and make sure all is well. The last thing to do is the programming for all on lighting. This is going to require a good long CV programming session. And one heck of a lot of reading but I am eleminating that long step for you. As for CV programming it is different for every system.

So for the forward light to be constant on you must do this.
Set CV35 to 1 from the factory 4
Now for the reverse light
Set CV 36 to 2 from factory 8
It is important that you program the front light before the back. If done differently it can make it so the back light is always on but the front acts as directional still. even doing it this way will sometimes result in one not being programmed properly requiring you to start over with the programming.
then you just have to turn on F1 and F2 and the all light on function on your system and your set with constant lighting.

Finished with all the programming done and DCC installed. Don't let this guide fool you it is still hard to do all of this and to have it all work properly and some of the pictures hint at just how much work go's into these.

That concludes the guide for installing DCC into a Bachmann PCC Streetcar with a DH123D decoder to full DCC.
__________________
<----- One day I am going to build one of those trains

Last edited by tankist; 07-11-2011 at 04:40 PM. Reason: Edited per request
gc53dfgc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2010, 01:55 PM   #9
gc53dfgc
Station Master
 
gc53dfgc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Oh
Posts: 2,608
Scales Modeled: HO, O, G, N, OO
Images: 11
Installing a DCC decoder into a(n) AHM/Rivarossi 2-8-2 Mikado

Reserved for later.
__________________
<----- One day I am going to build one of those trains
gc53dfgc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2010, 01:56 PM   #10
gc53dfgc
Station Master
 
gc53dfgc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Oh
Posts: 2,608
Scales Modeled: HO, O, G, N, OO
Images: 11
Installing a DCC decoder into a(n) Bachmann 4-8-4 GS4

Reserved for later.
__________________
<----- One day I am going to build one of those trains
gc53dfgc is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


» Visit These Sites:
LGB World

Or Our European Train Website ModelRailForum




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2008-2013 Model Train Forum