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Old 01-30-2011, 11:11 PM   #1
BDP
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DCC friendly Shinohara Turnout????

I purchase this Shinohara curved turnout and wondering if it is DCC friendly? The description didnt say if it was or wasnt. The box it came in was all black and said "Quality Track by Shinohara".

It is a #126 #6 curved turnout. I have asked this in another place but havent gotten anything is stone yet. I have been to Allan Gartner's site and I cant tell from the pics. Part of my says it is DCC friendly but another part of me says it isnt.

Here is what I have:





Thanks
Brad
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:28 PM   #2
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Sorry to say not DCC friendly.
But they can be made to be friendly with a little work.
Here is a site that explains it better, if you run into a hick up just yell back and I'll try to help more.
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:35 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by NIMT.COM View Post
Sorry to say not DCC friendly.
But they can be made to be friendly with a little work.
Here is a site that explains it better, if you run into a hick up just yell back and I'll try to help more.
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm

Thanks Sean that is what I thought after looking at it more. I know they can be made friendly with some work but really didnt want to do that, but looks like I will have to. I have read Allan's site several times and I am wondering if there might be an easier way to do it other than what he says to do?

I am sure I will be bugging you about getting this thing DCC friendly.

Brad
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Old 01-31-2011, 08:50 AM   #4
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In the pic below I am wondering if this would work? If I cut just above the frog (in circle) would that isolate the frog to the current that is needed to keep it from shorting?

In the pics in my op, the middle pic shows the throw that would have a current of either the mainline or diverging route up until the frog which I think would make this work.

If not please let me know.

Brad

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Old 01-31-2011, 09:46 AM   #5
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Isolate the frog completely. not 2 but 4 cuts

unsolder the conecting bars and drill them off (or just break away. connect point rails with shortened rail joiners, solder in new PCB connecting bar

restore power connectivity

and lastly, never buy those again, lol (kidding )





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Old 01-31-2011, 10:01 AM   #6
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Isolate the frog completely. not 2 but 4 cuts

unsolder the conecting bars and drill them off (or just break away. connect point rails with shortened rail joiners, solder in new PCB connecting bar

restore power connectivity

and lastly, never buy those again, lol (kidding )





Tankist

Thanks for the pics. Those pics have helped me more than anything I have found on the net.

The reason I mentioned the 2 cuts was I did see on another forum a guy had the same turnout and he made the 2 cuts as I described and he said it worked for him, but that post is 2 1/2 years old. I have emailed him but he hasnt gotten back to me.

I do have a question on your bottom pic, is it necessary (and I am sure it is) to connect the rails under the swivel point of the turnout where the rail joiners are or can this be left out or will the rail joiners not carry the current needed? Reason asking is I am still a little rough with the soldering iron and not to confident yet to possible tackle this. I have been working on some older track I have to practice on.

I like the turnouts and wasnt being alert when I ordered it. I should have went with the Peco isul-frog curved turnout instead.

Thanks for the help.

Brad
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Old 01-31-2011, 10:50 AM   #7
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joiners will not carry power 100% reliably, what is not shown on picture is 2 additional connections - from point rail wire to corresponding stock rail. not sure why i did not picture that. ADD: as shown it will have to rely on point rail making good contact with stock rail which really not a given (weathering, dirt etc)

i understand your concern regarding soldering, and you somewhat should be as we are dealing with nickel silver here. it is not rocket science really, but couple conditions need to be met. extra clean area to be soldered and use of flux (rosin will do, no violent soldering acids nesesery for NS). after cleaning the plastic from underneath the rail i used dremel wire brush to polish the point until it shines (REALLLY shines) and heated couple flux chunks over it, then its easy and solder sticks right to it. you also might want to pre-tin the wire to be soldered (i used the phone/network cable one) and as with any soldering make sure the tip of your iron is clean and tinned.

to gain confidence you can try soldering wires onto some other rail. besides, soldering from underneath is probably the best way to connect your feeder wires anyways.



shinohara turnouts are very nice, specifically the curved one. curved turnout by peco can be bit picky, especially on smaller radius curve

Last edited by tankist; 01-31-2011 at 10:57 AM.
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Old 01-31-2011, 11:15 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tankist View Post
joiners will not carry power 100% reliably, what is not shown on picture is 2 additional connections - from point rail wire to corresponding stock rail. not sure why i did not picture that. ADD: as shown it will have to rely on point rail making good contact with stock rail which really not a given (weathering, dirt etc)

i understand your concern regarding soldering, and you somewhat should be as we are dealing with nickel silver here. it is not rocket science really, but couple conditions need to be met. extra clean area to be soldered and use of flux (rosin will do, no violent soldering acids nesesery for NS). after cleaning the plastic from underneath the rail i used dremel wire brush to polish the point until it shines (REALLLY shines) and heated couple flux chunks over it, then its easy and solder sticks right to it. you also might want to pre-tin the wire to be soldered (i used the phone/network cable one) and as with any soldering make sure the tip of your iron is clean and tinned.

to gain confidence you can try soldering wires onto some other rail. besides, soldering from underneath is probably the best way to connect your feeder wires anyways.



shinohara turnouts are very nice, specifically the curved one. curved turnout by peco can be bit picky, especially on smaller radius curve

I figured that the current wouldnt carry the current 100% and that is why you have to connect that.

Also, if you dont mind me asking, why do I need to disassemble the throwbar? In your pics they are connected together by a metal strip and on mine it is almost the same way. Just wanting to know.

Better get busy practicing on my soldering.

Thanks
Brad
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Old 01-31-2011, 11:44 AM   #9
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point rails are isolated , notice the cut slot severing the copper layer.
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Old 01-31-2011, 11:55 AM   #10
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point rails are isolated , notice the cut slot severing the copper layer.
After looking at it closer yea I do see it. Well if I chop it up I have redone that part of the layout to use regular straight turnouts.

Not looking at it closely the first time I thought it was just a metal throw but I do see everything clearly now. If you have bigger pics of what you posted could you email those to me? If so I can pm you my email addy.

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