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-   -   Rebuilding & Replacing. (https://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=184864)

MrStucky 10-22-2019 12:39 PM

Rebuilding & Replacing.
 
3 Attachment(s)
Hi Everyone.
These are photos of my used sd40-2 diesel I purchased over the summer. I took the shell off & noticed a loose wire. I fixed this but ended up cracking the shell. Is the shell worth fixing with Gorilla glue/JB Weld, or is it best to get a new one? I plan on cleaning the whole thing, as the ďcrudĒ at the end of the drive shaft doesnít look normal to me. The motor runs but I think the wheels are out of alignment,& I donít have an nmra standards gauge. I plan on getting a gauge in the future. My psychologist has told me I should buy everything new, yet the fun is lost in fixing things and seeing how things work.
Thanks

traction fan 10-22-2019 02:32 PM

Unclear photos
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by MrStucky (Post 2462412)
Hi Everyone.
These are photos of my used sd40-2 diesel I purchased over the summer. I took the shell off & noticed a loose wire. I fixed this but ended up cracking the shell. Is the shell worth fixing with Gorilla glue/JB Weld, or is it best to get a new one? I plan on cleaning the whole thing, as the “crud” at the end of the drive shaft doesn’t look normal to me. The motor runs but I think the wheels are out of alignment,& I don’t have an nmra standards gauge. I plan on getting a gauge in the future. My psychologist has told me I should buy everything new, yet the fun is lost in fixing things and seeing how things work.
Thanks


MrStucky;

I can't really tell what all is broken on the shell from your photos. After a second look, I see what I should have the first time. The cab is broken off the rest of the locomotive. It looks like it could be glued. You can strengthen the new joint by gluing thin styrene "splice plates" across the inside of each side, and the roof. If the splice plates run the full length of the cracks, the new joint will be quite strong. Engine shells are made of plastic, so you should be able to glue it with ordinary liquid cement for styrene.
I also can't tell much about the condition of the mechanism from the photos. It looks like only one truck is powered by the motor? Looking again, I still can't tell for certain, but it looks like the motor has shafts coming out of both ends. I think I can see a tiny bit of shaft at the very bottom of the photo of the motor. Hopefully that means that both trucks are driven by gear boxes. You're right, the crud buildup on the gearbox is not normal. It should be disassembled, cleaned of all old grease and crud, and lubed with a small dab of new plastic-compatible grease. DO get an NMRA gage as soon as possible! It is an absolutely essential tool for any model railroad. They;re not expensive, and you can order one from www.modeltrainstuff.com Be sure to specify the scale you want. The NMRA gages come in all popular scales.

good luck, have fun

Traction Fan :smilie_daumenpos:

holava 10-22-2019 05:57 PM

I side with your psychologist, lol. That was a good one. When I went to Hollywood a screenwriter, twenty plus years ago, a shrink charged $ 150 an hour, so I suppose getting new stuff isn't an option. Yet repairing is definitely fun. Right now I'm in the middle of repairing 8 engines that came slightly damaged/loose in the mail.

D&J Railroad 10-22-2019 09:13 PM

Looks like a pretty old loco with the square drive shafts.
I don't think the shell would come apart in a clean break like that unless someone else had tried to kit bash it somehow.

Old_Hobo 10-22-2019 11:52 PM

That shell is pretty rough looking.....I'd save my energy for something nicer, but that's just me.....

MrStucky 10-23-2019 06:48 PM

Hi Everyone.
My Athearn diesel is powered at each truck by gears. The shell/body cracked right behind the windows when I was adjusting it to the frame, then I picked it up & caused the larger break. Iím glad I didnít start messing with the mechanical stuff, but I figured it was a buildup of crud & not something I shouldíve left as is. I can probably get a new body at Trains & Such the next time Iím in Calgary.

wvgca 10-23-2019 07:41 PM

in the meantime i would repair / glue the shell, least amount of money invested, lol

and practice on the rest ..

Old_Hobo 10-23-2019 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrStucky (Post 2462950)
Hi Everyone.
My Athearn diesel is powered at each truck by gears. The shell/body cracked right behind the windows when I was adjusting it to the frame, then I picked it up & caused the larger break. Iím glad I didnít start messing with the mechanical stuff, but I figured it was a buildup of crud & not something I shouldíve left as is. I can probably get a new body at Trains & Such the next time Iím in Calgary.

By the look of it, that body has already been hacked to add the wide cab, as the old Athearns did not have a wide cab on them......that's probably why the body broke in a straight line where the cab joins the body.....

I am going to Trains & Such tomorrow, and I'll see what kind of loose bodies they have, but I won't find one with the wide cab, as they didn't do them on older models....

MrStucky 10-24-2019 03:54 PM

Hi hobo.
I'm guessing by your response that I'm out of luck finding a new shell. Its close to Halloween though so I could run the loco & run it like its possessed. I bet I could make a new shell out of clear plastic if I had a 3D printer, then add glow in the dark leds or something similar to make it spooky.

Murv2 10-24-2019 04:55 PM

If the only problem is the break where the cab meets the body, glue some plastic sheet on the inside of the body so it sticks out into the cab area, then put glue on the cab and slide them together. Tester's plastic glue should hold the joint nicely. Just butting the two together won't make a strong joint. Rescuing old hardware is always worth it, for practice if no other reason.


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