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Old 10-09-2019, 11:25 AM   #31
Stumpy
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Interesting info. As was this bit from wikiknowitall...

"1878: Henry K. Porter continued the business on his own, as H.K. Porter & Co. He had established a reputation as a builder of rugged, specialized locomotives. He could custom build a locomotive quickly and efficiently, with a system of interchangeable parts; pistons, wheels and boilers in various sizes that can be combined to suit a customer's requirements. Some of the basic designs were kept in stock, and could be ordered literally 'off the shelf'."


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Originally Posted by Shdwdrgn View Post
Oh I forgot to ask... what's the monster in the front of your third picture? Is it really that much bigger than the 0-6-0T and 4-6-0, or was it just the camera angle? The 6's look dwarfed in between that front one and the rusted-out loco in the rear.
That's the 2-10-0 Decapod in the front & ol' rustbucket is a 2-8-0 Consolidation (with the leading truck missing). No camera trickery, they're that much bigger.
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Old 10-09-2019, 12:50 PM   #32
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Yeah that makes sense about the size. My ten-wheeler looks tiny next to my 2-6-0 and 0-4-0, which is why I had the sudden concern about what I was going to do for yard equipment. To me smaller looks older, and the ten-wheeler looks like it fits right in with my HOn3 2-8-0.

Thanks once again to everyone for all the great info!
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Old 10-09-2019, 02:19 PM   #33
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I would point out that the Russian decapods were being built for the Russian government during World War I. A couple hundred were stranded when the Communists overthrew the Czar and voided the order. In that time period the U.S. government took over the U.S. rail system (the USRA) and distributed these locos to several different railroads. They had to get new extra-wide tires for the drivers since the locos were built to Russia's 5 foot gauge. The pilot truck and tender wheels also had be replaced or regauged. A few lasted into the 50's, and a couple have been preserved. There is one in operating condition at the Illinois RR Museum.
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Old 10-09-2019, 02:24 PM   #34
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Hey, just popped up in the Union Station section - photos of two New Haven locos from around the 1890's - a 4-4-0 and an 0-6-0 that would fall right in your period.
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Old 10-09-2019, 06:12 PM   #35
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Nice, I don't normally check in that area so I would have missed it! That 0-6-0 looks right in line with what I'm looking at, but I'm not sure about the 4-4-0. Judging by the people standing next to it I'd guess that loco is at least a couple feet taller and has a larger boiler on it. Good info about the domes in that thread too, I had always thought the fluted domes were the older model.

[edit] Oops, I read that wrong. I though it said the 4-4-0 was from the 1860's, not the 1890's... So I guess the fluted domes ARE older.
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Old 10-13-2019, 12:18 PM   #36
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I finally got the chance to put the tsunami into my 4-6-0 yesterday. Made a mistake already, I had read that the board already in the tender provided the resistance needed for the LED headlight. That may have wrong, it only seems to provide resistance when in DC mode. I can't tell if I simply have no working headlight, or if it's just not turning on. I can't seem to get ANY of the function keys to work. For example, F2 should blow the whistle, and F8 should mute all of the sounds. Since I've never tried to use functions under DCC++ before I don't actually know where the problem lies.

[Edit] I figured out the function problem, but I'm still not getting a whistle. Instead all I get is the sound of static. I've tried changing to a number of different whistle sounds and they all just sound like static. Makes me wonder if someone forgot to load those sounds into this chip? [end edit]

So the circuit board that come pre-installed in the tender... does that do anything except provide DC functionality? I mean do I really need to keep that board in there if I'm wiring for DCC? It takes up quite a bit of space and prevents me from using any kind of baffle behind the speaker, so hopefully I can just trash it.

By the way, loving the back-EMF feature of the tsunami to adjust sound volume! I didn't even notice it until one of the pilot wheels derailed and I pulled back the loco to get it back on the track. I also warmed up the 3D printer to make a small baffle for my speaker (currently running without the tender shell in place) and even a small one makes a noticeable difference. I'll have to whip up something a little better once I know how much space I have to work with.

Oh, I should also ask... what are the proper number of chuffs per driver revolution? I thought it was four but that just seems too fast.

Last edited by Shdwdrgn; 10-13-2019 at 01:36 PM..
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Old 10-14-2019, 05:52 PM   #37
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I designed a better speaker baffle and printed it up last night, wow the sound was even more incredible. I had to turn down the volume but was able to start fine-tuning the equalizer. The new baffle has a slot that is a perfect fit for the speaker to sit in, plus a couple openings for the wires to come out through. I think I'll be mounting this speaker to the tender floor since there's no room to add a speaker under the coal load (where I could hide the sound holes).

I'm still having trouble with the whistle, but apparently the sounds ARE in the chip. I found that F9 signals a grade crossing, and as far as I can tell that also uses the same whistle sound files? Well the grade crossing sounded off just fine, which makes me think the whistle effect is working fine. However whenever I hit F2 or F3 (long and short whistle) I just get a static sound. Or maybe it's a hiss? It certainly doesn't sound like a whistle.
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Old 10-15-2019, 10:57 AM   #38
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In regard to tenders and steam-era switchers: I had been looking at an unlettered Bachmann 0-6-0 to match up with a Spokane, Portland & Seattle caboose and my collection of Pacific Northwest-themed wooden reefers - but the Bachmann has a coal tender and all of the SP&S's 0-6-0's were oil-burners.
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Old 10-15-2019, 11:51 AM   #39
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I converted my Bachmann 0-6-0 to a 2-6-0 and replaced the original slope-back tender with a larger long-haul tender to give it a different look (both were made by Bachmann). You might be able to find a suitable wood tender to pair with an existing loco, or just cut out the coal and kit-bash the tender into what you are looking for.
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Old 10-15-2019, 01:19 PM   #40
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It gets back to the old "What's close enough for you?" question. Portland, OR was a "bring your own coal" town, and of the 7 SP&S 0-6-0's, 6 were assigned to either Portland or Vancouver, WA (and therefore oil-burners). Although it's not an exact match, the Bachmann is "close enough" to Northern Pacific 924 and I suppose it's not implausible that an NP switcher could be moving 3 cars and an SP&S caboose around the Pasco hump yard. But for the same $$$ I can get a Kato non-DCC Northern Pacific NW2, and there are pics of one of those in the Pasco yard. Decisions, decisions.
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Last edited by GNfan; 10-15-2019 at 01:23 PM.. Reason: bad grammar
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