What would be your repair strategy for this #60 Trolley? - Page 2 - Model Train Forum - the complete model train resource
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Old 12-11-2019, 07:13 PM   #11
Millstonemike
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It looks like bumbp slide needs to be removed. And that may require removing the motor. Hopefully just the 2 standoffs hold it in.

In the second pic: Hard to see with the flash reflection but the teeth seem shot.

And ... is that actually a bearing? Maybe what's left of it after being ground by the worm gear. Almost looks like it's threaded (shouldn't be). TTender lists the replacement as nylon

If you have a full hardware store with "all those slide boxes of specialty screws" you may find a nylon insert that would do the trick.You'll need is similar thickness and an inside diameter that matches the motor shaft. It looks like it's meant to slide into position front-to-back with the motor in the oblong cutout of the slide bumper. But the bearing may be held in place "side to side" by structure under the slide bumper. You'll have to see. If it's loose on the motor shaft, that would allow too much play in the worm drive, hence the gear wear.

Trolley.png
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Old 12-11-2019, 07:23 PM   #12
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The wheels will not move when they are turned due to the design of the gear being driven directly by the armature.

Here are the assembly diagrams of the #60 Trolley:
http://http://pictures.olsenstoy.com...ar/acc60p3.pdf

http://http://pictures.olsenstoy.com...ar/acc60p2.pdf

To disassemble the unit, unscrew with a wrench the 2 hexagonal posts that hold the motor field assembly to the body.
Remove the Reversing Slide assembly.

To change the gear on the axle, pull 1 wheel of using a wheel puller. The next part is tricky. You need to slowly punch out the axle with a hammer and proper size punch until the axle is free of the gear. You need to support the side of the frame on a block of wood with a hole of sufficient size and depth for the wheel and axle to drop into.

Replacement is the opposite procedure, supporting the opposite side of the frame as you tap the axle through the new gear. Press the wheel on, and you are done.


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Old 12-11-2019, 07:51 PM   #13
Millstonemike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrainLarry View Post
To change the gear on the axle, pull 1 wheel of using a wheel puller. The next part is tricky. You need to slowly punch out the axle with a hammer and proper size punch until the axle is free of the gear. Larry
In the absence of a wheel puller, do you condone punching the axle out of the wheel. That is, place the unit on it's side on a block of wood to support the opposite side wheel. The wood block would have a hole drilled allowing the axle to move down. Then punch the the axle through that upside wheel.

I've done this but only on wheels that weren't salvageable.
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Old 12-12-2019, 06:00 AM   #14
ErnestHouse
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MTF is great. @millstonemike: That is a nylon bushing.

All: Thanks for the detailed posts and descriptions. I think I'll get a wheel puller and take a run at the disassembly and replacement of the worm wheel. The challenge is the reward. Love these mechanical things.

Would you replace the brushes and armature as well?
Also, I am a wheel noob. What is the purpose of the second hole in the wheels?

WheelPullerPress.jpg

Last edited by ErnestHouse; 12-12-2019 at 06:40 AM..
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Old 12-12-2019, 11:00 AM   #15
gunrunnerjohn
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Unless you're seeing something I'm not seeing, I don't see any bad gears.

000.png
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Old 12-12-2019, 11:33 AM   #16
B&O Forever
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I agree with GRJ. Usually a worn gear has teeth which have a knife like edge.


Also, the gear in question is turning at a fraction of the speed of the armature.

The armature worm gear looks ok to me too.

Are you sure you have lubricated the TOP of the armature?
the area where the armature goes into the brush plate. Several of my locos make a similar sound until lubricated.
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Old 12-12-2019, 01:10 PM   #17
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Replace the brushes if they are very worn. Replacing the armature is not necessary unless it does not turn (shorted or open windings, broken commutator).

The second set of holes in the wheels was for siderod screws. The wheels were used in other small locomotives with siderods.


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Old 12-12-2019, 02:00 PM   #18
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Anyone else see the inside of the bushing? It seems worn in a peculiar way, like it's threaded. Enough slop in the bushing may allow the worm gear to skip causing the noise. Perhaps not run enough in this state to wear the gears.
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Old 12-12-2019, 03:42 PM   #19
ErnestHouse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B&O Forever View Post
Are you sure you have lubricated the TOP of the armature?
the area where the armature goes into the brush plate. Several of my locos make a similar sound until lubricated.
That did the trick

Mostly. There's a little grinding noise but some oil on the armature plate made it zip back and forth again. Not sure if the brushes are ready to be replaced. See below. I already ordered replacement brushes, gear and axle.

As far as grease for when I replace the gear, I see Red n Taky mentioned but not in stock at my ACE. Any recomendations that might be available locally in small quantity?
IMG_5297.JPG

IMG_5296.JPG

Last edited by ErnestHouse; 12-12-2019 at 04:55 PM..
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Old 12-12-2019, 05:02 PM   #20
ErnestHouse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Millstonemike View Post
Anyone else see the inside of the bushing? It seems worn in a peculiar way, like it's threaded. Enough slop in the bushing may allow the worm gear to skip causing the noise. Perhaps not run enough in this state to wear the gears.
Good Eye Mike. When I first had a problem months ago, the screws holding down the armature top had loosened causing it to stutter badly. It kept happening until I put threadlocker on them. I think it's arguable that in one of those times, the armature wobbled and damaged the bushing. I ordered a new one along with worm gear, axle and brushes to refurb the drive train. Gotta wait for a a wheel puller to be made by Mr Timco. Thanks for the help.
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