Originally Posted by RonK9977
thanks for your advice ahead of time.
My questions are:
When you lay flex track and bend it you see some of the ties are cut so that they slide. Should you have these ties that gap per say on the inside or outside of a curve?
And when you run 2 parallel main lines how far apart should they be especially on the corners,keeping in mind I am going into factory set distance double crossovers a few times on the main (PECO) I have seen posts where people have talked about a distance to the centre of the tracks and so on BUT wouldn't it be easier to have the right distance from edge of the tie to the edge of the parallel track tie to it CONSTANT? Seems that would be easier to me as then you could make some wood blocks of the RIGHT DISTANCE for feeler gauges instead of measuring track centre to the other tracks centres....
Sorry for the noob type questions just trying to gain some knowledge...My track is on order and as luck wouldn't have it I broke my left arm so I am will have to wait a bit before I actually can get some down
No need to apologise for asking questions. Answering them is what we do around here, we don't mind. Also bear in mind that every forum member, no matter how experienced now, was once a "noob" too.
You can lay your flex track with the gapped ties on either side. Normally the gaps are on alternating sides, which allows the track to flex into a curve either to the left or right.
There isn't one set, "right distance" between double tracks. The two parallel tracks will usually need wider separation on curves than on straight stretches of track. This is because of car overhang. Most first layouts use tight curves, sometimes because that's the kind of curved track sections that come with a train set, or because the modeler doesn't have much room for a layout.
The tighter curves produce more overhang. The ends of a car will overhang the track toward the outside of a curve and the middle of the car will overhang toward the inside. Sometimes these two overhangs meet, in a sideswipe collision!
Since this is something we want to avoid, it's a good idea to do some tests with your longest cars on both tracks, and see how far apart the two tracks need to be. Then add 1/2 inch more, just for insurance.
Sorry but, the standard of measuring the radius of a track curve from the center of the track, used for decades by manufacturers and model railroaders, is unlikely to change for you.
However, maybe this will help. The distance between track centers is the same as the difference between any two parts of the track, as long as you measure between identical parts. For example the center-to-center distance is identical to the distance between one track's OUTSIDE tie end, and the other track's OUTSIDE tie end. This isn't the "right"distance between the outside tie end of the inner track and the inside tie end of the outer track, that you wanted, but it's a close as I can get.
On the straight stretches of main line, the two tracks can be closer together, because there's no car overhang problem. They can likely be the same as the spacing in your Peco crossover.
Sorry to hear about your broken arm! I broke my wrist awhile back, and was in a cast for three months. No fun at all!
I did find some hobby tasks that I could do one-handed though.
While you're recuperating you might want to read the attached PDF files. I wrote them specifically to help " noobs" with planning their first layout build.
Good luck, heal that arm, and have fun;
WHERE DO I START rev 4.pdf
1 How to build a better first layout.pdf
2 How to build a better first layout.pdf
3 & 4 How to build a better first layout.pdf
5 How to build a better first layout.pdf
6 How to build a better first layout.pdf
All AboutTurnouts rev 5.pdf
MODEL RAILROADING ON A BUDGET.pdf
Model Railroad Terminology 3.pdf