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Old 04-18-2019, 12:13 PM   #11
HockeyFan1972
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PIC of the layout from above

HEre is the basic layout...

Paul
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Old 04-18-2019, 01:29 PM   #12
DonR
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You're doing good.

The type of switches to control your turnout points
depends on the type of 'motor' you use.

Many of us use twin coil motors. (2 solenoids that
move the points). These require momentary 'buttons'
preferably powered by a Capacitor Discharge Unit (CDU)
that protects the coils from burn out. However, there
are Stapleton 751 D switches that do this, protect
the coils and provide
control of panel or track side LED signals. The
Stapleton and the CDU would require DC power.

The other popular turnout point mover is the
'stall motor' of Tortoise brand. It moves the points
slowly and requires only a double throw switch
but with DC power. The motors have built in
switches to control panel or trackside LEDs.


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Old 04-18-2019, 02:58 PM   #13
HockeyFan1972
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Request to move Thread

Hello, thanks to all the responses, but I have made a newbie mistake. Is there a way we can take this thread to the DCC thread and get it out of the Intro thread? I do not wish to violate the rules. Thanks!
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Old 04-18-2019, 03:54 PM   #14
DonR
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Probably, it would be best to continue this thread
to a natural solution. Then, when you have a
new question start a new thread in the appropriate Forum.

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Old 04-18-2019, 07:18 PM   #15
MichaelE
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Scales Modeled: HO
The Walthers switch machines are DCC ready and can be controlled from the hand held controller. You will need a power distribution card which is about $8 and can power up to eight turnouts. If that isn't enough, the distribution cards can be daisy chained together for unlimited control of your turnouts.

You wire power to the distribution board just like you would a track drop, plug in the included cabling to the switch machine and program it. Done. The Walthers machines will also control two or more separate signal aspects via the two lever snap switches included and mounted. They operate whether or not they are hooked up to anything so you may as well use them.

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Old 04-20-2019, 11:53 AM   #16
traction fan
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West Welcome aboard!

Quote:
Originally Posted by HockeyFan1972 View Post
Hello, after a 38 year hiatus from train modeling my son and I are building a N scale set. So new to this. Its exciting yet overwhelming. I want to run DCC. Haven't figured out how yet tho. Thanks for this forum!
Hockey Fan;

Welcome to the forum!

I don't know why DCC would require anything anything like "a PHD level diagram."
Wiring a layout for DCC consists of connecting two wires from the DCC controller to the track. Then it would be. "Congratulations Dr. Hockey Fan, you have just wired your layout for DCC!"

Seriously, it's that simple. If you plan on building a really large layout, you might need to add "bus wires" (a 14 gage wire running parallel to each rail of the track) and "drop/feeder wires" (20-28 gage wires connecting each rail to it's bus wire) The feeders would be set about 6-8 feet apart along the length of the track.

However, if your planned layout is closer to the 4' x 8' type, (from your photo it looks like it is.) then the "two wires only" system will work fine. You won't really need bus wires, and multiple drop/feeder wires on a small layout. They won't hurt anything if you have already wired them though.
If you would rather avoid installing DCC decoders in locomotives, you can buy locos with DCC already factory installed. For a DCC controller, I recommend the NCE Pro Cab. It is one small, hand-held, piece, simple to install (two wires) and simple to program & use. Cost about $200 retail but there are discounts & sales available.

There is a very good book on DCC available at https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/products/books It is "Basic DCC Wiring" by Mike Polsgrove.

The pdf files below are some I wrote for people planning on building a layout. Browse through them if you wish. They have information on DCC control, "DCC ready/friendly/compatible turnouts and lots of other model railroad stuff. They may answer some of your questions about how the hobby has changed. If/ when other questions come up, just ask here, and we will be glad to help.


Again Welcome;

Traction Fan


WHERE DO I START 3.pdf

1 How to build a better first layout.pdf

2 How to build a better first layout.pdf

3 & 4 How to build a better first layout.pdf

5 How to build a better first layout.pdf

6 How to build a better first layout.pdf

All AboutTurnouts rev-3.pdf

MODEL RAILROADING ON A BUDGET.pdf

Model Railroad Terminology 2.2.pdf
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Last edited by traction fan; 04-20-2019 at 12:47 PM..
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Old 04-23-2019, 04:50 PM   #17
HockeyFan1972
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USA Thanks for all the help!

[QUOTE=traction fan;2403790]Hockey Fan;

Welcome to the forum!

I don't know why DCC would require anything anything like "a PHD level diagram."
Wiring a layout for DCC consists of connecting two wires from the DCC controller to the track. Then it would be. "Congratulations Dr. Hockey Fan, you have just wired your layout for DCC!"

Seriously, it's that simple. If you plan on building a really large layout, you might need to add "bus wires" (a 14 gage wire running parallel to each rail of the track) and "drop/feeder wires" (20-28 gage wires connecting each rail to it's bus wire) The feeders would be set about 6-8 feet apart along the length of the track.

However, if your planned layout is closer to the 4' x 8' type, (from your photo it looks like it is.) then the "two wires only" system will work fine. You won't really need bus wires, and multiple drop/feeder wires on a small layout. They won't hurt anything if you have already wired them though.
If you would rather avoid installing DCC decoders in locomotives, you can buy locos with DCC already factory installed. For a DCC controller, I recommend the NCE Pro Cab. It is one small, hand-held, piece, simple to install (two wires) and simple to program & use. Cost about $200 retail but there are discounts & sales available.

There is a very good book on DCC available at https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/products/books It is "Basic DCC Wiring" by Mike Polsgrove.

The pdf files below are some I wrote for people planning on building a layout. Browse through them if you wish. They have information on DCC control, "DCC ready/friendly/compatible turnouts and lots of other model railroad stuff. They may answer some of your questions about how the hobby has changed. If/ when other questions come up, just ask here, and we will be glad to help.


Again Welcome;

Traction Fan



Thanks for all the help. I look forward to the next step which is wiring. I do not have a DCC controller/power station yet. Having a hard time deciding which one to buy and spend 100.00+ dollars or more in the dark. There is a hoppy shop up in Milwaukee I may go visit. Call me old school but i want to see it and feel it before i drop the money on it.

I have a Burlington Northern DCC decoder installed engine from Atlas as our test engine.

Glad this board is out here...thanks!

Paul
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Old 04-27-2019, 04:42 PM   #18
HockeyFan1972
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DCC enabled engine on DC track one lap and DEAD.


Ok group. Got the track all put together. One of my packs of tracks came with the old standard Kato DC power controller.

Had Bought this engine with DCC card already installed:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MINT-N-Atla...72.m2749.l2649

In the description it says the engine can do DC and DCC both. So fifured we would check conectivity of the track and have a test run. Put the engine on the track and powered up the throttle. Took the throttile almost all power to make engine move. Engine went around inner track once and stopped. Lights worked and such. But then nothing.

Ensured all was right, checked power, checked voltage in DC on track, all seemend good. The engine was not doing anyting.

So we quick set up a oval track, nothing special, hooled up the power, placed the engine on the track... nothing.

So the question is, did i ruin the engine? Did it "Burn Up"?

Any advice would be helpful.

Thanks.

Paul
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Old 12-04-2019, 08:26 PM   #19
holava
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Hi, I recommend Japanese shinkansen bullet trains, such a huge variety !
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