I cleaned it with painy thinner and applied some Acrylic wax. Ready for lighting.
The first picture has the rubbing compound on the right to the left is dirt by the door.
I just wanted to get rid of the dirt and brighten it up. It's old, so scratches are expected. How can I paint over the roof?
SO Idid a clean up like the 6111 cars. I didn't want a full paint job. I did notice red paint under the green trim. I may try to touch up the cream color.
When I don't repaint, I clean the paint with a rubbing compound, wash with thinner and seal with a floor wax (shine!). The scratch is a name. I just keep the other side visible. I can always paint in the future. This way it is cleaned up. I am working on some prewar manual switches. Those I am repainting but I need to find that awkward green.
Normally I rpaint the rusted pieces this one just has a few scratches.
Nice job of restoring it. I have one suggestion, though, if you decide to paint the roof. Those chimneys would look great if they were brick. They make the stuff to go directly onto walls you are modeling----should be a painless way of changing the chimney from metal to brick. Besides, you need more work. *L*
I got the 8 LEDs installed, two are high in the roof that points to the gables. My picture left out that window. I did have a short. One LED had too much solder and boy it was hot!!! That's how I found it. The wall paint is very brittle from doing the chimney. In the future I may tackle it. Now I am suppose to be working on some 021 prewar manual switches. I can't find the right paint. So far John Deere green is closest. I may show pictures of those. Here I used the water jug plastic. The plastic is held in place with stiff wires,same as the LEDs. The post on the side of the building are kinda useless they are #4 36 thread. The common today is 4 40.
If the frustration with the short wasn't enough, I found a black dot on my nicely painted roof. I got it off and ruined the sheen. I will have to live with it for now.
*LOL* I have one shell left to work up, then I have to start looking for parts. I have frames for 3 of the 4, trucks for two. I need to locate car ends, the tail end of the observation car, doors, and rig the lights. Did I mention my girlfriend wants to see people-silhouettes in the windows? Anyway, I just priced the stuff and, if I buy it from one of those parts places on the web, it's really ugly. I may have to make wooden wheels for them.
Nice Job T-man, any chance you can show us a picture of the LED's and how you arranged them. I like the idea of putting up LED's in place of standard bulbs. Saves on Burn out replacement and lets you have far more lights off your accessory power supply.
I have a bunch of remote switches I won on Ebay. Looking to put LED pilots in them
T-man, Just discovered this string while Googling the #137. My few books talk about a light assembly with automatic train control. Any idea what that is all about. Your partial restoration looks great. Scott should have had a good whippin' for doing that to the roof!
A low level worker in the railroad empire , the gang labourer . The 137 had a bimetal circuit that delayed a train in an isolated piece of track. The metal heated and made contact making the engine run. The block signal does the same thing.
I recently worked on another station and it has the block signal unit. It is a bimetal strip that heats up under load and when it makes contact the train moves.
As I was re-reading this old thread from the top-down, I thought, "Didn't T-Man once make a new chimney for a station like this?" And then, bingo, there it was! What a treat to take a trip down your handiwork Nostalgia Lane, T-man. Keep finding and saving 'em ... the world's a better place for it!
Thanks TJ,
I just updated the thread with the installed block signal mechanism. It came with a 134 station that I recently worked on. One side was badly dented around the windows and doors. Here is the side after completion.
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