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Old 10-12-2019, 12:47 PM   #11
teledoc
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Scales Modeled: Postwar/Prewar tinplate "O" scale
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I have to ask about the 600. Series cars as to the type of couplers. Some have hook style, while other later ones have Latch couplers. Be aware of the type that a 1689W whistle tender has, so they match the 600 series cars have. Depending en the 1689 tender t might have Latch, or Box couplers. Just check to see what is ring sold. The transformer that seems the best fit, for your application would be the RW, which they are both familiar with.
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Old 10-12-2019, 02:08 PM   #12
SoShoresGuy
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Originally Posted by teledoc View Post
I have to ask about the 600. Series cars as to the type of couplers. Some have hook style, while other later ones have Latch couplers. Be aware of the type that a 1689W whistle tender has, so they match the 600 series cars have. Depending en the 1689 tender t might have Latch, or Box couplers. Just check to see what is ring sold. The transformer that seems the best fit, for your application would be the RW, which they are both familiar with.
This style of the 600s. I guess it is called a latch coupler. This is one that I restored a couple of years ago. I also put some lights in them with fogged windows.
P2270131_zps540698c0.jpg~original.jpg

The RW that I have works great with a 238E and whistle tender. Kent said that he had one. It shouldn't be a problem with the 259s.
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Old 10-12-2019, 03:48 PM   #13
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You have latch couplers on the one you show, so anything you add will need the same ones.
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Old 10-12-2019, 06:20 PM   #14
Millstonemike
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Originally Posted by SoShoresGuy View Post
...

Yup, the pre war stuff likes the extra HP.

Side note: I have a 238E and 259E that I use a RW 110 with them. No problems for the past 5+ years. Also, some accessories, not much, but enough to light up a room.
The RW is rated up there at 19 V according to the chart, below.

There's a difference between needed power (e.g., watts) and needed operating voltage. The motor's winding may be designed for higher volts. But higher volts reduces required amps given the same power.

The modern CW is rated at 18 V - lack of voltage shouldn't be a problem. The "chopped sine wave" technique of power control is mostly irrelevant for conventional operation. However, IIRC, I've read a post or two where it interferes with one or more of the modern control system signals from MTH, Lionel, etc..

I admit I'm biased towards the post war Lionel transformers. In good condition, their design and relative simplicity can provide several more decades of use. And they fit better with the (Pre)Postwar "motif".

So, personally, I'd pick an expertly restored postwar Lionel over a new CW given similar price. According to the chart, that's a LW, KW, RW or the "holy grail" ZW. The chart's missing entries ... the V and the (baby ZW) VW transformers also have a higher voltage output.

YMMV.

Transformer Voltages.png
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Old 10-13-2019, 09:03 AM   #15
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KW is the way to go. While you may not need it now, your kids will outgrow their clothes quickly and the same is true of the minimalist power supply.

A better power supply now will leave room for future expansion as the kids get older or you take over!
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Old 10-18-2019, 01:55 PM   #16
teledoc
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Mark, I am attaching a link to Olsen's Toy Train Parts "Library" sections, that is a section explaining everything you should need, to get your whistles working. Make sure to Bookmark it, for future reference. There is a wealth of knowledge, in their Library, which covers both Postwar and Prewar Lionel. You can check out other sections later. Here is the link you need:

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=1065

This should help you getting things fixed.
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Old 10-19-2019, 12:44 PM   #17
SoShoresGuy
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Originally Posted by teledoc View Post
Mark, I am attaching a link to Olsen's Toy Train Parts "Library" sections, that is a section explaining everything you should need, to get your whistles working. Make sure to Bookmark it, for future reference. There is a wealth of knowledge, in their Library, which covers both Postwar and Prewar Lionel. You can check out other sections later. Here is the link you need:

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=1065

This should help you getting things fixed.
Thanks Jerry. I'm going through the test procedures now. I hope that the ball bearing in the bushing is still there. Good grief.
Thanks for sharing. - Mark
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