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Old 03-05-2019, 04:03 PM   #11
Dennis461
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Atco, NJ....near the race track
Posts: 722
Scales Modeled: HO
Images: 11
Thanks again for reminding me I was going to do this...
FYI, 7 pictures taken, Cab forward.
1st one, the cab was in focus, nothing else...
Using CombineZP, which makes some mistakes in the combination file. Takes a couple of tries re-shooting the initial shots with different focus points. Notice the extra connecting rod ends in the first set of drivers on the 2-8-8-2.
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File Type: jpg focus stacked 7 frames.jpg (2.76 MB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg focus stacked 3 frames (2).jpg (1,006.0 KB, 4 views)
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Old 03-05-2019, 06:24 PM   #12
mesenteria
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I like to see success from people who grit their teeth and delve into these forms of depiction. Much of digital photography, and the effects and manipulation we do, is rather straightforward. On the other hand, some of it is darned tricky, as if we have to outwit our own 'help.'

This was the case with CombineZP, which I urge everyone to tackle at least once. I can talk you through it if you're interested. But, on topic, I found that CZP, and CZM before it, do much better, and have less of a perimeter of 'waste', if you take pains to orient the lens and detector as close to the same from shutter release-to-shutter release as possible. The more you fudge your aim, and the more grossly 'discrete' your focus shift from image-to-image, the worse the result will be.

What this means is that I got used to shooting strictly in manual so that I could control the depth of focus of each image, but that I also took pains to ensure the camera was restored to a jig of sorts before the timer tripped the shutter (oh yeah, you have to use a timer). So, I would go into macro mode, put the camera in a cradle of some kind, half press the shutter release to get the camera to focus, and then start the timer. I'd take up the camera, switch out of macro as appropriate, and then repeat, always using the timer, always restoring the counting-down camera to its cradle before the shutter released. This way, CZP would have minimal 'crud' to crop as it placed erroneous digital information at the edges of the photo, and you'd have a wider field of view to work with when the final focused rendering is finally released by the software, which in the case of CZP can take up to 2 minutes if you have a lot of images to integrate.

Keep it going, boys...
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Old 03-05-2019, 07:37 PM   #13
Patrick1544
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This can be done also with a small aperture and slow ISO increasing the depth of field.
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Old 03-06-2019, 12:26 PM   #14
mesenteria
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True, but it's difficult to get a noise-free image in digital format, or it would require shooting RAW and then PP. Not a biggy if one is already at the computer doing PP...
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Old 03-15-2019, 03:02 PM   #15
J.Albert1949
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Join Date: Feb 2018
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Here's another picture I made this afternoon using the focus-stacking program.
This one has 8 images from closest to furthest combined into the final image.

It's actually easy to do, the software I used (Helicon Focus on the Mac) takes less than 10 seconds to "render" the image.

I then used Picasa to straighten it a little, then crop it, and then I used the "auto contrast" feature and then "added light" to the shadow areas.

Drag the top image to the desktop and then open it with Preview (Mac) or a graphics viewer in Windows and view full-size to see the details. You can't really see them with the image scaled down to fit into the window of this posting.

There's no way this could have been achieved by "stopping down", because the depth-of-field will be too narrow, even at smaller apertures.

Granted, there are some kinds of photos where one -wants- "bokeh" (such as portraits), but in a model pic like this, the more details that are sharp and clear, the better.

Penn Central Lineup.jpg
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