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Old 07-30-2016, 12:27 PM   #91
Don F
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Clever procedure. Several years ago, I made a through plate girder bridge from steel sheet. I used a masonry nail with a sharpened point to punch rivet impressions from the back of the sheet metal.
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Old 07-30-2016, 02:24 PM   #92
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Good job with the rivet detail, that's pretty nice.
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Old 08-01-2016, 09:39 PM   #93
Don F
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Recently, I posted some pics of some ramps I made from Zip Ties. This evening, I made some car ramps that someone mentioned. I just bent the ties with needle nose pliers; the ties held the new shape quite well. I then sprayed them with some Krylon red oxide primer. This is brighter then the other red oxide I have.
Ramps and Guide Rail 001.jpg

Ramps and Guide Rail 003.jpg
I also made a jig from a scrap piece of wood for making sections of guide rail. I used a router with a very small bit to make a half round depression about 1/8" from the edge; I went just a little deep, so I'll make another jig. I then rounded the edge with sand paper to get the rolled upper and lower sections of the guide rail. I used foil lid material from iced tea mix, since it is thick enough to hold its shape, and thin enough to mold easily. I used a small brad to pierce the bolt holes used to anchor the rail to the posts. Since this is fro a scrap load, I don't have to be too fussy, as the rails are bent, to simulate a wreck and removal situation.
The foil is also great for making auto and truck body parts.
Guide Rail jig 001.jpg
Ramps and Guide Rail 004.jpg
Ramps and Guide Rail 005.jpg
Ramps and Guide Rail 007.jpg
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Old 08-13-2016, 03:24 PM   #94
Don F
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I had a small project along the side of the house, and needed a short piece of small diameter rod to pierce a caulking tube. The closest thing at hand, was a handle from a 5 gal. plastic pail. As I cut the plastic hand grip off, I realized a use for it almost instantly; Terracotta pipe! I cut the center ridge out on the chop saw, painted it with Rustoleum red oxide primer, and done. They do need a little trim on the inside of the cut end, but this project took longer for the paint to dry. The inside diameter is abut 5/16" at the small end, and 3/8" at the bell. Not knowing what the scale length of a pipe this diameter would be, I left the pieces at 1 3/8", which is 6' 6".
Terracotta Pipe 002.jpg

Terracotta Pipe 003.jpg
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Old 08-18-2016, 11:45 PM   #95
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West Handy tool cady

After sitting on a stool to work on my layout, and getting up a lot to retrieve tools; I came up with this. Now all the tools needed are within reach of the stool. The tool holder is made of a 1x6 glued to a 1x4 and clamped to the fascia wherever needed.

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Handy clamp on tool caddy.jpg
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Old 08-18-2016, 11:55 PM   #96
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West Homemade resistance soldering tool / hot wire foam cutter

I made this resistance soldering rig from a low voltage, high current transformer, relay, foot switch high quality tweezers, and a steel case. If you are seriously interested in making your own send me a P.M. for details. The hot wire foam cutter is as simple as they come. A 1x2 wooden handle and a piece of music wire hooked up to the resistance soldering rig in place of the tweezers.

Traction Fan

Resistance soldering unit inside closeup.jpg

Resistance soldering unit front pannel.jpg

Resistance soldering unit inside over all view.jpg

Resistance soldering tweezers.jpg

Resistance solder hot wire foam cutter.jpg
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Old 08-27-2016, 11:01 AM   #97
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Are these posts acceptable

Quote:
Originally Posted by tworail View Post
Everyone,

Would like your assistance in compiling a FAQ/resource for the site combining all our threads and the great contributions people have made.

If you have made a thread at some point, no matter how small or big, just post it here with the TITLE, link the to the thread, SCALE (or general if all scales) and some category ie engines, maintenance, electrical, etc.

The goal is to make a FAQ / Resource thread we can direct newcomers to as well as help keep the long time members brains from getting fried looking for stuff.

THANKS!
tworail;

I have recent forum posts (General model train discussion section) on making pine trees, improving Atlas turnouts,and scratch-building turnouts. Would you please look at them and let me know if they would be OK for this "How To" sticky thread? All three are quite long and contain many photos.

Thanks;

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Old 08-28-2016, 10:45 AM   #98
Don F
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Traction fan, I would be interested in a resistance soldering unit. Several years ago, I made a bridge from steel, and soldered it using a propane torch with a soldering tip. It was a bit difficult controlling the heat, as there were many small pieces. I had read about resistance soldering on another forum after I had finished the project, and a friend offered to lend me his, but I no longer had a need. I have been considering building the bridges again, so the R S method would be the way to go. My e mail is included on my web site which appears at the bottom of my posts.
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Old 08-28-2016, 10:02 PM   #99
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REsistance soldering

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don F View Post
Traction fan, I would be interested in a resistance soldering unit. Several years ago, I made a bridge from steel, and soldered it using a propane torch with a soldering tip. It was a bit difficult controlling the heat, as there were many small pieces. I had read about resistance soldering on another forum after I had finished the project, and a friend offered to lend me his, but I no longer had a need. I have been considering building the bridges again, so the R S method would be the way to go. My e mail is included on my web site which appears at the bottom of my posts.
Don F;

I checked your website and got the e-mail address. I also saw that you are modeling in O-scale. If that is so then you're going to be using some big parts. (I'm in N-scale) I'm not sure that my unit would produce enough heat to do what you want. However there's no reason you couldn't build a higher power model. I have had little success soldering steel. I've heard of it and even tried it with steel wire for my catenary. However the steel never seems to form a strong permanent joint. The joints once made, tended to come apart fairly easily. I have since switched to brass poles and phosphor bronze wire, both of which solder extremely well, forming very strong, and permanent, joints.
I'll be happy to e-mail info to you, but have you considered/rejected some sort of small arc welding tool? I think it might be able to produce much better joints in steel, than soldering.

Regards;

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Old 08-28-2016, 10:18 PM   #100
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West Turnouts for five dollars each?

Turnouts (track switches) are one of the more expensive items for model railroaders. Good quality commercial turnouts retail for about $30 ea. Tortoise or other quality switch machines can also run up the budget in a hurry, when you need a lot of them.
If you are strapped for hobby cash, but have plenty of time available, you can spend a lot less cash at the expense of spending a lot more time, by scratch-building your own turnouts. This is not difficult to do. You don't need eyes like an eagle or the hands of a surgeon. You will need to know how to solder, and be willing to trade your time for your money. My post, How I scratch-build turnouts (attached) shows what tools and materials you will need and goes into more detail about price and labor time. If you are interested, read through it and see if if you want to give it a try.

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How I scratch build turnouts new.pdf
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