Well it's been awhile. I had amazing problems with my wheels. After grinding the axle shoulder off the inside of the non-geared wheels and tinkering with spacing I have finally achieved a runable wheel set. I do believe that I will have to buy some new wheels, however, as they seem to have gotten 'fatter' than they should be. Oh well I still need headlights and couplers anyway.
It's so pretty, Dr. Frankenstein would be jealous.
Does that have a double reduction motor? And it has an E-unit? It may not be the original motor for the #10 (not sure).
ttender.com has new wheels for that (both the wit and w/o the gear boss). $11.00 each plus shipping. Part numbers SM-72 (plain wheel) and SM-75 (with gear boss). Among other parts (headlight, whistle, etc.) listed under Lionel Pre-war alpha parts.
Thanks, good to know about the wheels. It is a common problem for std gauge, and the complaint has always been that you need to buy MEW wheels as sets of four ($44).
If you look at some of my earlier std posts you will see the body is a 1926 10 (strap headlights-no reverse unit). The motor and frame I acquired separately is a 30s build-a-loco motor with a pendulum reverse (forward and reverse only). It works great after much trial and error.
Thanks, good to know about the wheels. It is a common problem for std gauge, and the complaint has always been that you need to buy MEW wheels as sets of four ($44).
If you look at some of my earlier std posts you will see the body is a 1926 10 (strap headlights-no reverse unit). The motor and frame I acquired separately is a 30s build-a-loco motor with a pendulum reverse (forward and reverse only). It works great after much trial and error.
Ah, was it you that posted on the pendulum repair - eventually bending an element just a touch to getting it working reliably? If so, I didn't realize it was standard gauge when reading that thread. I've never been to the standard gauge forum. Was it posted in the Tinplate forum?
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