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Show off your tinplate! Anything goes

53K views 348 replies 47 participants last post by  Dieseler 
#1 ·
Ok I'll start this off. Post anything tinplate. Buildings , trains, etc. Ed, even your cans:) here is a wind up toy a got a while back. It's missing the key, anyone know where to get one or a picture of one so I can reproduce it? Also the top on one side is missing. The lithos are good and it works great. Was a good buy at something like 15$ shipped. Electronics Technology Electronic device Electronics accessory Circuit component


Games Table Furniture Vehicle Toy
 
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#58 ·
Cool pitchy, the crossing signal works great. I have one but it didn't have the copper leaves for the track. So I dont have the wig wag effect. I could do it but I got 3 other things controlled from that track, so good enough is good enough:)
The circuit breaker works better then I thought , automatically resets too. Nice.
 
#67 ·
I cleaned up the Old Marx Station and placed it on my Gang car line.








I had to use O27 track. The O gage was too wide.



I tried to save as much of the original paint as I could.



Overall I am happy and it now has a nice perch to be enjoyed.:D
 
#69 ·
Thanks! I watched some of your videos . MARX can be a lot of fun. I am still confused on the copper pieces and why you need them? I would think the isolated rail would be enough. Or is it the simple fact you use it to solder to?
 
#71 ·
For an isolated rail you remove it from the track and insulate with some thin cardboard, the center rail. Pull the tack pins or replace with plastic pins. This is an isolated rail. Hook power to your gizmo run the common to the isolated rail. The wheeled axle grounds the gizmo , from the isolated rail t the opposite rail , and it works.
 
#75 ·
Tman, are you sure? I thought I read about it from you? The peices of metal put over the track? Maybe on your crossing post thread? I could be wrong. It was used instead of the isolated rail in marx stuff, kind of like the lionel pressure switch.
 
#81 · (Edited)
Tman, are you sure? I thought I read about it from you? The peices of metal put over the track? Maybe on your crossing post thread? I could be wrong. It was used instead of the isolated rail in marx stuff, kind of like the lionel pressure switch.
I think your right about T man having a video or post about these clips. Though I can't dig it up.:dunno:

What I don`t understand about using a isolated rail is how do you break it up so a flashing signal works?
Here is what T made,
http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=2681&highlight=insulated+rail


In here http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showthread.php?t=17668&highlight=insulated+rail
is a picture of an original, antique, classic, hard to find Marx track clip that they used.:D
Notice the second picture you can see what insulates the piece. they made long and short ones. Two or maybe three different sizes I can't find out much about these clips. I wish I had a bunch more they work great and are easy to just lay on the rail. When the train that passes over them with ease. Easy to take up and move to another spot if need too. Look they even have a part number on it.:)


Shim stock and may be available at Ace hardware or a hobby shop.
Thanks I will have to write this on my to do list before I forget.

They are ( or were back then) for sale, In the above thread at post #28 there is this mentioned, http://www.modeltrainforum.com/showpost.php?p=203772&postcount=28

I went to the site to find them and couldn't, I must have found them back then from what I said. If I said they were expensive with the shipping I probably deleted them from my mind.:p

If anyone goes to the site, trainpartsformarx.com and find them tell me where they are.

You can regulate the duration of play of what ever your using these for by making different lengths, I guess. I like them, it is on my list now so I don't forget.

T Man.....you cut that curve and epoxied it, wouldn't it be easier to form one of these on a curve? I wonder if a long one would even form? A short one should work?
 
#79 ·
Now your asking hard questions. Here is the man's thread. Just cut the track in a few peices, then insulate between the peices. Some reason, can't post the t man's thread. But you got the idea anyway. There is also ways to build circuits and stuff so it flashes automatically. Mine is just solid, but it wouldn't be too much to get it to work.
 
#83 ·
I was looking somewhere else, you think they would have it in numerical order.

7 in Accessory Rail Clip
Item # 367
$4.00
quantity
2
$8.00

1 1/2 in Accessory Rail Clip
Item # 368
$3.00
quantity
5
$15.00

Item total:$23.00
Shipping and handling Shipping and handling: (to 07080) $6.00
Estimate shipping and tax

Total:$29.00 USD
This is for 2 7" and 5 1 1/2" clips.

I guess $6 bucks for shipping is not that bad? Though it probably only costs them a buck.:rolleyes:

For 2 long ones and 5 short ones with shipping it would be $29 bucks.
I wonder if that comes with the wire attached, I guess it includes the insulated piece on it.
Be nice if they had a picture.

I still think it is cheaper to get a sheet of the copper stock and some wire and just used the electrical tape as the insulator. Or maybe buy some kind of spray can of insulator stuff. I think I have seen this somewhere. Just spray it on and let it dry and your set.

Still....electrical tape is cheaper and easier.
 
#84 ·
still think it is cheaper to get a sheet of the copper stock and some wire and just used the electrical tape as the insulator.
That`s what I`m doing, just made a video of mine but it will take 15 minutes or so to upload it too u-tube.
The copper I`m using is pretty thin, thicker might form and stay in place better.
Thing is ya can buy a foot square chunk of copper and make lots of them cheap.
Vid. coming soon.
 
#85 ·
Thanks for links Ed, Nice picture on the clip. I have plenty of copper flashing but it may be too thin. If you use a spray try a clear coat. I suspect it is a urethane base and has a plastic feel to it.

Aluminum may work too. To keep the shape but to solder it??? Probably not. A couple more things to try out.
 
#88 ·
pitchy.....Want to hide the wires some?
Flip the clip so the wire is in the inside of the rail?

Then drill some holes through the oriental rug in bring them up from underneath. :p:thumbsup:

I would think a lighter gauge of wire would also work?
What are you using? 12 or 14?
A lighter gauge would also be easier to hide.

If you want you could eliminate the connector all together, just cut a tin can up into tabs big enough to slip in the underside of the tube rail and attach a wire to the tab with solder and slip it into the rail, it will squeeze up it nicely. Don't solder to the rail itself. You might have to open the tube a hair to slip it up then squeeze it shut. But once up into the tube it will be nice and tight, it won't come out.

That way all the wires come up from underneath and you can't see them or the ugly connectors.
But the oriental rug would need drilling. :D
 
#89 ·
I am kinda use what I have laying around guy :laugh:, all good ideas and will dress it up as I find some lighter wire.
All good ideas and appreciate the input, I just set this table up about a month ago and have been busy buying stuff for the layout.

On a side note, I noticed a piece of paper in one of the tin caboose`s.

 
#92 · (Edited)
After looking at some of these beautiful pieces, I feel like Chief Brody in "Jaws", when Robert Shaw and Dreyfuss are comparing scars, and Scheider is looking at his appendectomy scar!:goofball:

However, I do have a few pieces that I'm happy with.
The first three were purchased from our Member-to-member sale section:
My 1668 and (not quite) matching tender. Runs smoother than my newer loco's:


My 2643 Observation car:


...........and my 2642 Pullman car:


Now this little piece I got from Fleabay:
An Ives 3251


The engine runs well. But the paint is shot. I want to restore the finish to near factory.
What stops me is the rubber stamped numbers, etc. on the piece. I had a thought:
Would it be a good idea to actually take the engine to a place that makes rubber stamps, have them make stamps with the logos and the numbers to match the original typeset, then rubber stamp them back on after repainting?
 
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