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Old 11-16-2019, 12:33 PM   #11
MrStucky
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Hi Everyone.
I was working on my sd40-2 yesterday and had good success. I first used a toothbrush to brush away built up crud, then disconnected the wires. I planned on using isopropyl alcohol to clean the wheels and trucks except I didn’t have much. I sprayed some contact cleaner on the wheels and that worked well, allowing the wheels to detach from the chassis. The problem I have now is the motor, in regards to replacing the wiring. Can I just “pull” the motor out, or are there screws to remove that I haven’t found yet.
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Old 11-16-2019, 12:51 PM   #12
flyboy2610
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Scales Modeled: HO, too blind and fumble fingered for N
Someone else has worked on that diesel before you got it. That Mashima motor is not original. It has most likely been glued to the frame. Look under the fuel tank. See if there are any screws in the holes. If so remove them and see if the motor comes out. If there are rubber looking plugs in the holes, use a punch and push them out. I'm betting though that the motor has been glued in, probably with something such as Shoe Goo. Grab the motor on each side and rock it side to side to see if it loosens up.
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Old 11-16-2019, 01:03 PM   #13
MrStucky
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hi Flyboy.
There are rubber looking plugs at the bottom & I messed around with those for a bit, but I didn't want to make things any worse than they already need to be. The other thing I noticed yesterday while tightening a small screw on the joints between the worm gear & the motor, that one of the differential joints is cracked. I don't know if this was my fault though or someone else's. I'll post a picture of the problem if you'd like.
Thanks for the tips.
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Old 11-16-2019, 05:23 PM   #14
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Scales Modeled: HO, too blind and fumble fingered for N
Those plugs are the bottom of the original Athearn motor mounts. It's possible someone figured out a way to mount the motor using the original mounts. Find a blunt object and push them out. They can be pretty stubborn sometimes.
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Old 11-17-2019, 02:46 PM   #15
pokey_toaster
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Scales Modeled: HO
Often the aftermarket motors are stuck in with silicone caulk. If the original Athearn mounts are still there, they were probably just used to center the motor. Mashima is a very good motor.

The model looks to be a kitbash of an SD40-2W. A similar model is now available from Intermountain.
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Old 11-19-2019, 04:12 PM   #16
MrStucky
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Hi Everyone.
I managed to get the motor off the frame and I’ve been scraping away at the black rubbery adhesive, put in place by the previous owner. The wire on top was originally stuck at the bottom, I’m guessing as a ground wire or whatever purpose it is meant for. I included a picture of the bodies internal wiring, and the crack on the driveshaft assembly. I’m not to sure what adhesive to use when I reinstall the motor, but I have No More Nails, CA glue and I believe I have 5 minute & 30 minute epoxy.
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Old 11-19-2019, 06:38 PM   #17
flyboy2610
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Actually, Shoe Goo or Pliobond would work well for installing the motor. You want something with just a little bit of give to it.
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Old 11-19-2019, 07:42 PM   #18
MichaelE
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I would remove that u-joint and try the AC glue to close the gap. After that sets up securely I would put a light coat of JB Weld all the way around the u-joint for security and prevent further cracking.

A light, even coat. And let that dry thoroughly before re-installation.
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Old 11-19-2019, 09:43 PM   #19
pokey_toaster
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ACC/ super glue won't glue Delrin. The motor probably has a 2mm shaft and both Northwest Shortline and Hobbytown of Boston have 2mm connectors. Unfortunately, they are both in transition so their websites are not necessarily current but they will probably answer the phone if you can't find their parts from your favorite retailer.

The black goo was commonly included with can motor repower kits and works pretty well. The usual replacement is silicone caulk, put a small bead where the motor makes contact with the frame and tape it in place for a day while the silicone cures. Also make sure it doesn't touch the inside of the shell. Like Flyboy said, you definately want something with some give to absorb and quiet any vibration from the motor. I find it easier to connect the motor wires before installing the motor.

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Old 11-19-2019, 09:48 PM   #20
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No, it will not. If that is what it is made of.

I would then clamp it lightly closed with a hemostat and then use the JB Weld to form a sheath completely around the outside while holding it closed.
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