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Old 11-13-2019, 10:17 AM   #1
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Question when you guys do your steam engines ovet do u leave the shell as is to keep it original or do u repaint it if do do u use a flat black or satin finish thanks one other quetion on the rails what do u use to clean and get them back to shine thanks al
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Old 11-13-2019, 10:35 AM   #2
mopac
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Scales Modeled: HO mainly, N, S, O, G
I have close to 20 AF steamers. I try to buy locomotives with
good paint. It just does not always happen. I have one repainted
steamer, it is very nice. I have one that needs a repaint. The
paint chips are bad. LOL, but I will love it all the same. Real
locomotives get repainted. It is a normal process. I would rather have the original paint, but these steamers are around 70 years
old and have been played with so all can not have original paint.
What I hate is touch ups. They always show. Either leave it alone or repaint all of it. Here is a pic of one that needs repainted.

IMG_0601.JPG
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Old 11-13-2019, 10:43 AM   #3
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I think the flat black or black satin would work. I am going to use Krylon paint.
It is good paint and can be found in Walmart. It has primer in it but I will use
straight primer first and then spray with Krylon.
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Old 11-13-2019, 10:56 AM   #4
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Here is my repainted one. It was painted with Krylon black satin.
Looks great. New cab numbers and lettering is dry rub transfers.
I did not paint this one. flyernut did. Tom, AmFlyer, said that
Krylon had a semi flat black paint that works well also. If you can find it.

IMG_0475.JPG



There is a hundred different blacks, just like there is 100 different whites.
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Old 11-13-2019, 12:01 PM   #5
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Krylon Satin Black is what I used for Al's 302, and this 290 I did years ago. I sand-blast the boiler shell, and use easy-off over cleaner or brake fluid on the thin tin tender shells. Sand-blasting will destroy the thin metal in seconds. I also use a self-etching primer on both shells.017.JPG

018.JPG
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Old 11-13-2019, 12:19 PM   #6
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They look great. If the cab numbers are strong cover them with Vaseline to keep them original after the repaint.
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Old 11-13-2019, 12:20 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyernut View Post
Krylon Satin Black is what I used for Al's 302, and this 290 I did years ago. I sand-blast the boiler shell, and use easy-off over cleaner or brake fluid on the thin tin tender shells. Sand-blasting will destroy the thin metal in seconds. I also use a self-etching primer on both shells.Attachment 514486

Attachment 514488
I agree, SAND blasting will destroy thin tinplate cars. So I use very extremely fine glass bead. It removes paint, rust etc. and leaves a paint friendly surface with only compressed air cleaning after the blasting.
I also OVEN dry my paint job. It allows the paint to flow and the heat opens the pores of the metal and allows for better adhesion. The paint also smooths out to a glass smooth finish.

Dan
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Old 11-13-2019, 12:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panther View Post
I agree, SAND blasting will destroy thin tinplate cars. So I use very extremely fine glass bead. It removes paint, rust etc. and leaves a paint friendly surface with only compressed air cleaning after the blasting.
I also OVEN dry my paint job. It allows the paint to flow and the heat opens the pores of the metal and allows for better adhesion. The paint also smooths out to a glass smooth finish.

Dan
Nice to know, and a beautiful job on that shell... I'm jealous!!!
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Old 11-13-2019, 12:51 PM   #9
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thought about the oven, but did not know. What degree for oven? And how long.
Ah, baked on finish. LOL.
That red shell looks great.
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Old 11-15-2019, 01:13 AM   #10
AFGP9
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I have often thought about the oven trick too but didn't know what temp or for how long. That red sure does look great. I too do glass beading because it doesn't etch the metal but leaves it smooth. Self etching primer is all I use like flyernut said after the glass beading process. I can adjust the air pressure for softer metals to avoid damage.

Kenny
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