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Old 01-19-2020, 10:20 PM   #11
CTValleyRR
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1. a) All Walthers track was out of production for a while. It was being made by Shinohara, and they decided to close up shop and retire. Walthers was able to obtain all the tooling and has qualified another supplier to make it. It's gradually coming back into production as the manufacturer completes production runs and passes QA checks. There is still some of the old stuff around on eBay. The old pieces were about 14" long, but there is no guarantee that the new ones will be exactly the same.

b) Not sure what you saw for "less than stellar reviews". The only real complaint I ever saw was their cost (MSRP of $99). A double turnout is a finicky piece of track that is difficult to manage under the best of conditions (real railroads almost never use them); most people who had trouble had it because of sloppy installation or awkward track configurations, not because of the quality of the piece itself. If you chose to use one of these, you need to be careful to ensure you install it dead level, without creating kinks or S-curves. Better form (and more realistic) to use two single crossovers in opposite directions with a short space between them.

2) Just don't use roadbed under your sidings. There isn't one single "correct" height difference anyway.
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Old 01-20-2020, 01:01 PM   #12
DonR
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You could substitute 4 turnouts to replace a double
crossover, possibly at less cost. Wire the motors
so that both point sets in a route move with one button (or
DPDT).

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Old 01-20-2020, 01:03 PM   #13
MichaelE
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That's how I wired them on my last layout.
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Old 01-20-2020, 01:32 PM   #14
traction fan
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West Stop for a bit and read this??

Quote:
Originally Posted by dialed in View Post
Well i have taken your advice fellas! I'm just going to go at it with the 'rough' plan i've got and add things whenver i get to them/feel like it. I'm happy to report i've got my main line, which will run a complete circle all around the outside of my benchwork, all drawn out on the table, 24" curves (with easements) drawn on and even some roadbed down! I hope to have the roadbed done this week if i can find my caulking gun and get myhands on some adhesive. i've done more in the past three days than i have in the last year and a half! Its also been snowing for about that long here as well, which may have something to do with it.

two questions though:
1. a)I have a spot planned where i had wanted to put in a walthers ho no.6 double crossover, however they are back ordered until april (according to my supply shop). Does anyone have a diagram with the measurements of these on. I will just put in a piece of straight track for now so i can easily remove it later when the crossover shows up.
b) upon searching online for a diagram, i have found that doublecrossovers have less than stellar reviews, and now i'm second guessng if i want to use it or not, or just figure a different way to do what i want to do. does anyone use double crossovers? Should i bother with it?

2.i've been reading up on height changes between mainlines and sidings and i'd like to try doing this on a certain part of the layout. I'm using regular ho cork roadbed on the main, can someone suggest something to use for the siding that has about the correct height difference? I've only ever seen cork roadbed in a standard height before.

Thanks for now!
dialed in;

You are not the first, and won't be the last, to wonder about how to get started. There are two basic types of layouts,and DonR has mentioned both.

One, and the most common for a first layout, is what I call a "Train Setup" type of layout. Don referred to it as a "continuous running" layout. This type has ovals, figure eights, alternate cutoffs of the main loop, etc. etc. In other words, track, track, and more track. This provides many places for the train to roll, but really without ever getting anywhere, except right back where it started. This type of layout is for people who simply want to see trains go around different loops of track. It's not realistic, in that it looks and runs nothing like a real railroad. However that doesn't make it "wrong." There really is no "right" or "wrong" way to build a layout, it is simply a matter of what you want. The post "It's a start" by Riggzie in the "My Layout" section of this forum, has a track plan that's good example of this kind of layout.

The other option is what I call a "Model Railroad" type of layout. This is an attempt to model part of a real railroad, or at least something that looks, and operates, somewhat like a real railroad would.
Don mentioned switching cars, and possibly continuous running as well.
Real railroads are not laid out for continuous running. There are no figure eights, or ovals. A real railroad's "track plan" is basically a straight line, or as close to a straight line between cities, as natural obstacles will allow.
There are sidings so that trains can pass each other, and spurs to let empty cars be dropped off, and full cars be picked up, at industries along the way.
A model railroad then might hide half of the oval needed for continuous running to disguise the fact that the trains are running in circles.
There can be much more to it, so I'm suggesting you read this file (and possibly others that I have written, but only if you want them) before you go further with your construction. You may have your first "This is a mistake, I'm going do it this other way instead" moment, or you may decide "I like what I have, and I want to go on with it." That is entirely up to you.

Good Luck with whatever you choose to build, and Have Fun!

Traction Fan

WHERE DO I START rev 4.pdf
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