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8ft x 8ft framework

14K views 104 replies 14 participants last post by  johnfm3 
#1 ·
I am looking to build my first layout. In this diagram below, it displays a 8ft x 8ft platform with the first layer base frame work in place.

My finished layout will be 3 layers tall with a 12 loop helix in the middle 4ft x 4ft section. Each loop will have 4 in separation. The layer deck seperatin will be about 2ft apart with the over all height at just about 6ft (top of layer 1 being at 2ft and layer 2 being at 4ft)



Here is the picture of my layout base setup.



Currently I am planning on using two 2x4s at the very bottom and 4x4s for the vertical. And then 1x4s for all the main frame work.

The question is, can those 4x4s be replace with 2x2s??? (assuming adjustment of the bottom two 2x4's). Would 2x2's be strong enough or should I stick with 4x4s for that part.

Thanks,
John
 
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#91 ·
What I do to post a picture,
1,When your typing your post, look up top & click on the paper clip.

2,That opens a box then click browse.

3,That will open another box find your picture where ever it is in your computer. (say downloads,camera,files wherever your picture is.)
When you find the picture click on it then click open, it will then be in your box where you clicked browse.

4, Then click upload, wait to make sure it uploads.

5, After it uploads x out that box & go back to your post box where you are typing and click the paper clip again and click insert attachments.

Your picture should be in the thread.


Note, if the picture won't upload most likely it is too big.
If you don't see the paper clip that is an easy fix too.
 
#97 ·
In the upper left, it doesn't look like you softened the curve so much as just shoved the kink further out.Maybe it's ok, and just tricking the eye because you have at least 2, maybe 3 different radii in there.

A better way to handle the 3 tracks would be to move the spur on the mountain lop back to the front, where it is in post#94, then place a turnout on that top track right where it exits the tunnel, use that center space for a small yard. Make your curve on the left one nice, smooth curve.

And ditch the Atlas Snap Switches for a better quality one.
 
#98 ·
Well, a interesting situation happened. While starting to build the frame work of my layout my wife was on Offer-Up and found the above layout for sale again. Apparently, it sold and that sale never completed. I met the owner last night and paid cash for delivery this Saturday.

I found out more about it that what was told in the add. A train can travel the entire layout between both levels. There are 2 controllers and either one can control the train thru the entire layout. The layout is broken down into districts so that you can control 2 trains seperately of each-other. Its basically ready for DCC and block detection if I understand it correctly followed by JMRI and automation.

I am super stoked. This basically gets me what I wanted minus the entrance and exit tracks for the main multi level 8x8 layout I will be building in the future. But I believe this will be a good start for the next year or 2 while I learn other aspects of the hobby such as structure building.

Images to come.

John
 
#101 ·
I am pretty happy with the purchase. I got off lucky as I bought it with out looking at it in person.

As i stated above, there are some track issues where flex track meet in corners and have kinks. I will need to pull some nails, straighten the joint, solder the 2 pieces of track, then soften the area where the two tracks meet. These kinks have prevented my larger loco's from running such as my PA-1.

Does this sound like a proper way to correct the problem?

This layout has nothing soldered except for power feed wires to track. None of the track is glued down, only nails every so often.

Is it possible to glue track down in place with out lifting it? Such as while gluing down the gravel road bed?

The minor problem I have is how to scenic this layout. I am going to have to look at it and see how i can make it interesting where I can add lights and such. Really its almost not possible as there is no place for a town other than at the base where the train yard will be. That leaves the mountain bare. I am going to probably run some high power towers with lights, then have them terminate to a power station which feeds the train repair facility.

Definitely going to add a couple of Jeeps (CJ's or YJ's) trying to climb the mountain from the right side. At least then I can get some headlight and taillights. And try to add interest during the night time runs when I want a darker run.

I really need/want someone to come to my house and look at what i have and consult me on where to go with the priority's to get this layout up to par again.
 
#102 ·
I think your PA not running has more to do with the curve radius than any kinks. The PA doesn't just have 3 axle trucks, but very long ones at that. Your PA may never run properly on those curves; mine can just barely handle a 22" radius.

Any kinks in the track should be corrected, but you may have to pull up large segments of track to do it. Best practice is to solder the joints with the track straight, THEN curve it. What kind of turnouts are those? If they're Snap Switches, you might want to consider replacing them as well, althoughthat will change the whole geometry and require a lot of rework.

Simply ballasting the track will glue it down, and that may be your best bet. You can also lift it slightly and spread a little caulk under it with a putty knife.

As far as helping in person... there appear to be over a dozen Pierce Counties in the US, none of them close enough to me for it to be an option. Sorry.
 
#103 ·
I think your PA not running has more to do with the curve radius than any kinks. The PA doesn't just have 3 axle trucks, but very long ones at that. Your PA may never run properly on those curves; mine can just barely handle a 22" radius...

...As far as helping in person... there appear to be over a dozen Pierce Counties in the US, none of them close enough to me for it to be an option. Sorry.
I have updated my profile to specify that I am in Wa... lol

I will say regarding the PA-1, much of the exposed track that I ran the PA on did fine, with exception of the 1 outer track where the kink is due to not being soldered. And why I will be making it a priority to go thru the entire layout to solder and glue. The track in the mountain is the big question I will need to investigate.

John
 
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