The heat gun was OK but the paint hardened quickly.
I got around to using the paint stripper, took about an hour. 0000 steel wool helped a lot. During and before pic's are in my gallery under "How to". Almost tempted to leave it stripped.
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"T" stands for
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I didn't get 100% of the paint. I stripped a few times and used rubbing and polishing compound.Iused a dremel polishing kit for touch up. Finished with 2 coats of walmart clear coat. The dremel buffer didn't work well, after it was used it started to streak from the heat. Too many RPM's I guess. I did use a heat gun to just heat up the metal after applying the paint. After spraying, the paint expansion just cools off, so a litlle heat really helps.
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"T" stands for
Trains, Track, Trestles, and more Trains
I can not wait to see what it looks like when you get everything back together
One thing I forgot to ask you T-Man is if you had any of the tabs break on you during disassembly... That is actually what discouraged me from working on these; with the last car I bought, an 814 box car I got a while ago now, both tabs broke on all four of the door guides when I took them off
You can never tell what condition the tin is in by looking at it, and the 814 looked like a good piece... Oh well
Just today I got the repo wheels . The originals split. Out of six tabs for the body I broke One and that was after I got it off. I wanted to remove the paint behind it. The door and handle bars are on an I was working on the spot lamp. Evidently the model does not have a reversing unit and I am missing a whistle and a pantograph. The side inserts I painted yellow sort of original, the book said cream.
As soon as I work it out I will put a 12 volt lamp in with a resistor. The headlight takes a screw bulb.
I have to work on the the wheels. They may need some minor enlarging.(Next day) I pressed the wheels on. Prepped the wheels with a 5/32nd round file that came in handy. A tool for chain saws and trains!
Track tested the motor and she runs fine. The gears had to worked before assembly because they were stubborn upon removal. The teeth were deformed from the prying and I used a dremel wheel cutter to reshape but I did it by hand and not by power. The gears just slipped on the repo wheels and I used a dab of RTV to hold them in place while I pressed them together. A few of the motor wires need attention I have to insulate before I get a short.
I left the base as is just a little shine up.
So everthing is working out. Almost Done!
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"T" stands for
Trains, Track, Trestles, and more Trains
The engine works fine. I just have to figure out how to letter the sides. The yellow rectangles had LIONEL on the top and 248 on the bottom. The black frame was left original.
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"T" stands for
Trains, Track, Trestles, and more Trains
That looks great! As far as lettering the sides, I think that some people sell stamps and/or stickers on eBay for people who restore trains and need to reletter their locomotives... On the other hand, maybe you could go to a craft store and see what they have for letter design stamps...