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O Scale Atlas, Bachman, Hornby, K-Line, Lionel and classic toy train discussion.


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Old 03-28-2010, 05:55 AM   #11
Stillakid
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T-Man, "Practice?" Are you saying that YOU, had difficulties with some, "little ole tabs?" LOL!

TJ, on the one hand, after stripping & painting my 1110 and 3-2026's(and for my first time, look great!), I know I could do a decent job. But, I really enjoy watching that, "Old Girl", tear up the track with her battle scars from my youth

I do have that extra engine, and was hoping someone had a clue what model Marx it came out of. It doesn't fit what I have, and after all these years, a little cleaning and oil and she flies(and her lamp works!) If I find the right shell, she'd get the paint job. and if that turns out okay, maybe then, I'll begin, "Practicing" for my entry into "Tin"

T-Man, I do think that the larger, pre-war tin would be beautiful around a Christmas Tree. We have a large family and with 8 grandchildren, they'd enjoy seeing and playing with something more their size After all, not all, "Toys" are for us "Big Kids!"
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Old 03-28-2010, 07:23 AM   #12
T-Man
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Tabs, are fun, the Marx accessories, I always look inside. That Marx engine is an 0-4-0 Marx Marlines engine. Don't know too much.50's Thor has some info for reading.

Found a picture on ebay.
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:02 AM   #13
Big Ed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stillakid View Post
T-Man, "Practice?" Are you saying that YOU, had difficulties with some, "little ole tabs?" LOL!

TJ, on the one hand, after stripping & painting my 1110 and 3-2026's(and for my first time, look great!), I know I could do a decent job. But, I really enjoy watching that, "Old Girl", tear up the track with her battle scars from my youth

I do have that extra engine, and was hoping someone had a clue what model Marx it came out of. It doesn't fit what I have, and after all these years, a little cleaning and oil and she flies(and her lamp works!) If I find the right shell, she'd get the paint job. and if that turns out okay, maybe then, I'll begin, "Practicing" for my entry into "Tin"

T-Man, I do think that the larger, pre-war tin would be beautiful around a Christmas Tree. We have a large family and with 8 grandchildren, they'd enjoy seeing and playing with something more their size After all, not all, "Toys" are for us "Big Kids!"
Even though it would look good to you tearing down the track with the battle scars.
The rust I see in the picture will continue to eat the engine unless it's treated somehow.

It might take a while but eventually it will get worst.
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:36 AM   #14
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Hi guys,

Re: Tin tabs, and the risk of accidentally breaking them off ...

I had a nice chat with an old-timer at the Greenberg's show yesterday. We were talking about tin whistle tenders, and how they often need service ... which requires bending open the frame tabs. He offered this tip: "If the frame has four tabs, bend them as needed to remove the cab. After servicing, you might consider bending only 2 (of the 4) tabs back into alignment to hold the cab back on ... especially if the car will get light use. That way, you have 2 tabs unfatigued and 'in reserves' for future service."

Re: Rust ...

Big Ed ... what's your best tip / method for treating/stopping rust? (I'll be you / others have discussed this in a prior thread ... I'll do some searching.)

Dare I say it, but I've used diluted muriatic acid (HCl) to remove surface rust on other (non train) projects. Works like a charm, but it's dangerous, metal-eating-hungry stuff. Have you guys fiddled with this (again, heavily diluted) at all on trains?

Scotchbrite pad rubdown, Rustoleum primer, etc. all come to mind, too.

And what do you do with cars whose paint finish is generally good, but with the smallest hints of rust pitting here and there. Seems like a full strip-job would be overkill. Do you ever apply any sort of a wax to the surface to try to block oxygen from exacerbating the rust??? (Though maybe rust is an inside-out thing ... maybe leave the outside finish intact, and prime the inside???)

Niave comments / questions here on my part ... Clue me in if you happen to have a few moments.

Many thanks, guys!

TJ
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:46 AM   #15
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For tinplate, look at the 6111 flat cars, for ease go to my how to in the signature. Normally scotch brite and acrylic non wax. Waiting on better half before departing for Wilmington.
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Old 08-22-2011, 01:13 PM   #16
mrjcoz
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TJ ,thanks for the info.mine runs real well but im sure it needs a cleaning also.i was thinking repaint but may just polish up.mine a little more scratched but no bare metal showing.waiting for 2 610 and a 611 passenger cars i got on ebay.i love this prewar stuff.they sound different and are so much easier to work on.thanks again this why i joined here
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Old 08-22-2011, 01:37 PM   #17
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MrJ,

Happy to hear it. Enjoy the passenger cars, too. (No pass cars on my end, yet ... )

Cheers,

TJ
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Old 08-23-2011, 01:20 AM   #18
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Here is a hint to avoid breaking off tabs. Don't bend the tabs over, give them a slight twist, and don't twist any more than absolutely necessary to hold the car or tender together. Been doing this since I was a kid.

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Old 08-23-2011, 08:26 AM   #19
tjcruiser
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Thanks, Bruce.

Interesting you say that. On my work, I've noticed that most original Lionel tabs are bent 90 degrees, with one exception: On 258 and 259 prewar tinplate locos, the tabs used to attach the two-sectioned pieces of boiler shell together were twisted, just like you suggest.

One other issue on tabs that I've learned through trial-and-error ...

I prepaint all of my tinplate components before reassembly. Inevitably, though, I need to sand down the thickness of the paint on the tabs before reassembly, such that the tab will fit through its corresponding slot. And, when one bends the tab over, the remaining paint will often chip off. I can touch up the paint with a tiny brush, of course, but I had wondered about any bare metal exposed on the underside of the bent-over tab, and its potential for rust. Rust is bad!!! After a bit of thinking, here's what I do ...

I cut a small piece of wax paper, and put a tiny dab of paint on the wax paper close to the edge. Then, I carefully slide the paper and dab of paint underneath the bent-over tab, transferring the paint to the underside of the tab, and then promptly slide the paper back out. I can usually do this with minimal "overflow" or mess. It seals the metal on the tab nicely, I hope.

TJ
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