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Old 01-13-2011, 08:29 PM   #11
tjcruiser
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Ha ha ... I'm awake ... I'm AWAKE!

T -- You're right ... some of these old Lionels flip direction via the field coil, with the armature downstream and grounded to the frame. It's only a matter of wiring ... the mechanics are all the same ... one could easily wire a motor the other way, with the direction flipped via the armature, and the field coil grounded to the frame.

Hey ... exciting news ...

I made my LIST today ... my list of parts that I need to order from Jeff Kane to get this 1688 and my 258 back in shape. I haven't talked to Jeff yet, but I'm hoping he has most things.

I'm pretty much in motor repair mode for the foreseeable future. I can't really get back into paint/body work until the warmer spring weather. And it was most definitely NOT warm here in RI today!

TJ
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Old 01-15-2011, 08:02 PM   #12
T-Man
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Red Marker

I explored the red marker installation. First I showed and installed marker in a torpedo shell. The a couple of new markers.


...

From the mounting hole I think it is a press fit.

...

Then I looked at the 249e

...

The 249e has a thin shell and I found super glue used. I tink a small dab of epoxy would work to if you apply it on the sides.
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File Type: jpg installed.jpg (20.4 KB, 181 views)
File Type: jpg red markers.jpg (12.3 KB, 181 views)
File Type: jpg redmarker.jpg (23.4 KB, 182 views)
File Type: jpg shell.jpg (19.8 KB, 181 views)
File Type: jpg trial fit.jpg (23.6 KB, 182 views)
File Type: jpg 249e.jpg (24.7 KB, 181 views)
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Old 01-16-2011, 08:57 AM   #13
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T-Man,

Thanks for the marker pics and ideas ... much appreciated.

The red markers I ordered from Kane are "new old stock" from Madison Hardware. I'm curious to see if they'll have that long stud-like protrusion on the back like yours, which I assume are repro?

Kane didn't have any leading recommendation on the marker install, though he did say that some guys heat/distort the back (inside) with a soldering iron. Sounds a bit risky to me. I think I'll try the super glue route, first ... if it looks like a tight fit to begin with.

Will keep you posted ... (though sometime in the spring, after the repaint work).

TJ
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:05 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by tjcruiser View Post
T-Man,

Thanks for the marker pics and ideas ... much appreciated.

The red markers I ordered from Kane are "new old stock" from Madison Hardware. I'm curious to see if they'll have that long stud-like protrusion on the back like yours, which I assume are repro?

Kane didn't have any leading recommendation on the marker install, though he did say that some guys heat/distort the back (inside) with a soldering iron. Sounds a bit risky to me. I think I'll try the super glue route, first ... if it looks like a tight fit to begin with.

Will keep you posted ... (though sometime in the spring, after the repaint work).

TJ
And if you heat them on the inside you will not be able to get them off if you have to.
You might get them off but I don't know about reusing them.
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:07 AM   #15
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They have part numbers typed by a speed printer. I don't know if they are original. They were in a steam part lot.
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:26 AM   #16
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Ed -- Good point. Very good point.

T -- Kane did say that the NOS markers were darker and a bit less translucent than the newer repro stuff. Purely for comparison, I'll post a pic of them when they arrive.

Cheers,

TJ
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Old 01-22-2011, 09:20 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjcruiser View Post
Hey ... exciting news ...

I made my LIST today ... my list of parts that I need to order from Jeff Kane to get this 1688 and my 258 back in shape. I haven't talked to Jeff yet, but I'm hoping he has most things.
Hi guys,

Project update. Well, Jeff Kane at the Train Tender had all the parts I need to begin to get this 1688 and my 258 prewar locos back into shape.

For those who might not be familiar with Jeff, I highly recommend him. He's very thorough, and really endeavors to make sure that he/you are tracking down the right parts ... especially in the Lionel prewar regime where part number identification way back then was a mystery, at best.

I wanted to post an example of how Jeff packages / ships things ... each part carefully indexed in his order sheet, and heat-sealed into little individual clear-wrap compartments ... to be cut open exactly when you need it.

With these parts in hand, I can now delve into the e-unit rebuild, the motor rewire, etc.

Cheers,

TJ

EXAMPLE OF LIONEL PARTS FROM JEFF KANE AT THE TRAIN TENDER

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Old 01-22-2011, 11:14 AM   #18
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I marvel at how nicely he packages things, and so far he's never missed on an order for me. The parts are correct, the prices are good, service is fast, and the shipping is very reasonable. What's not to like?
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Old 01-28-2011, 01:45 PM   #19
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Gun Blue ... the Test and Verdict

Guys,


As found, the motor cheeks om my Lionel 1688 were a bit rusty with bare patches of original metal blackening. I didn't want to paint them ... too thick and prone to chipping. I tried a "re-color" with a black Sharpie pen, but it was too blotchy with an odd bluish streaky sheen. (I removed that failed attempt with some denatured alcohol.)

I've seen some other guys here on the forum use gun blue, so I thought I'd give it a shot. I bought a ittle 3 oz. bottle of Birchwood Casey Super Blue, and tried it out. I first cleaned / buffed the metal cheeks with a stainless Dremel brush, then applied the gun blue fluid with a little cotton rag.

To my surprise, the gun blue fluid is mostly clear in color. However, the metal turns black almost instantaneously when you rub the fluid on it. I applied 2 or 3 light "coats", just a minute or two apart. Then, I let that dry (just a few more minutes), then "polished" it (sort of) with a fine ScotchBrite pad. The result is a nice near-original-looking black sheen.

The verdict is in on gun blue ... I tried it ... I like it!

TJ

BEFORE GUN BLUE, CLEANED UP WITH DREMEL BRUSH:


AFTER GUN BLUE, AS DESCRIBED ABOVE:
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Old 01-28-2011, 01:59 PM   #20
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That gun blue does look really good. I can't wait to see how everything else turns out.

And, I have to agree about Jeff. I love getting parts from him. They're always well packaged and he makes sure you really are getting the right stuff.
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