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Old 12-16-2019, 04:59 PM   #11
Robert_Ogle
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I need more track but very happy I went n scale due to spacing and even happier I did not do an 8x4 but 6x4, it would have been a bit cramped. My kato engine arrived so when I get home from work I’ll see how she runs.

6’ x 4’ framed and braced. 3’ legs. May go higher but need some more 2x4 otherwise I’m gonna give it a go at this height and see how it feels. Foam is 8x4 sheet of Owens Corning cut to fit, so I have some spare foam, I just need a theme now and find a layout that works


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Old 12-16-2019, 05:27 PM   #12
Fire21
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That's GR8 Robert! You have your basic oval, and there is lots of room for turnouts and expansion, and scenery. Enjoy the hobby!
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Old 12-16-2019, 06:21 PM   #13
Robert_Ogle
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That's GR8 Robert! You have your basic oval, and there is lots of room for turnouts and expansion, and scenery. Enjoy the hobby!
Thank you!
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Old 12-16-2019, 09:53 PM   #14
traction fan
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West Suggestions

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_Ogle View Post
I need more track but very happy I went n scale due to spacing and even happier I did not do an 8x4 but 6x4, it would have been a bit cramped. My kato engine arrived so when I get home from work I’ll see how she runs.

6’ x 4’ framed and braced. 3’ legs. May go higher but need some more 2x4 otherwise I’m gonna give it a go at this height and see how it feels. Foam is 8x4 sheet of Owens Corning cut to fit, so I have some spare foam, I just need a theme now and find a layout that works


Robert;

Congratulations on what you have done so far!

The legs don't need to be 2x4s. 1x3s are cheaper, easier to cut, lighter, and plenty strong enough. If your layout will be subject to moisture, (basement, garage, etc.) then you can screw and glue (with yellow carpenter's glue) a 1x2 & a 1x3 together in an 'L' shape. This "L-girder", as it is known, will still be a bit lighter than a 2x4 the same length, but will be stronger, and so rigid that it will be virtually immune to warping. Painting all the wood parts of a layout also helps seal out moisture, and protect against warping.

You can use the extra pink foam, cut into smaller pieces and glued in stacks, like the layers of a cake, to form hills. Foam can be cut with a handsaw. The surefoam rasp tools shown are good for shaping. You can do final shaping and smoothing with sandpaper. All this cutting, shaping and sanding makes lots of foam dust, which gets all over the place. Keep a shop vac handy! I hold the shop vac's hose right next to the shurefoam rasp to catch most of the dust before it spreads.

You might want to consider skewing your track oval so it lies somewhat diagonal to the foam. This can leave more useful spaces for scenery and structures. It also makes the layout a bit different and more interesting than running parallel to the edges of the table. All these suggestions are just that. The decision to use any of them, or not, is strictly up to you.

Have fun!

Traction Fan

L-girder 6.jpg
'L'-girder side view. Once the glue has dried, the screws can be taken out and re-used on your next project.
The yellow carpenter's glue is so strong that the wood itself will split before the glue joint does.

L-girder 3.jpg
'L'-girder end view.

Surform rasps.jpg
Surform rasps. The gray straight one may not be available, but the yellow curved one does the job.
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Old 12-16-2019, 09:56 PM   #15
Robert_Ogle
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Originally Posted by traction fan View Post
Robert;

Congratulations on what you have done so far!

The legs don't need to be 2x4s. 1x3s are cheaper, easier to cut, lighter, and plenty strong enough. If your layout will be subject to moisture, (basement, garage, etc.) then you can screw and glue (with yellow carpenter's glue) a 1x2 & a 1x3 together in an 'L' shape. This "L-girder", as it is known, will still be a bit lighter than a 2x4 the same length, but will be stronger, and so rigid that it will be virtually immune to warping. Painting all the wood parts of a layout also helps seal out moisture, and protect against warping.

You can use the extra pink foam, cut into smaller pieces and glued in stacks, like the layers of a cake, to form hills. Foam can be cut with a handsaw. The surefoam rasp tools shown are good for shaping. You can do final shaping and smoothing with sandpaper. All this cutting, shaping and sanding makes lots of foam dust, which gets all over the place. Keep a shop vac handy! I hold the shop vac's hose right next to the shurefoam rasp to catch most of the dust before it spreads.

You might want to consider skewing your track oval so it lies somewhat diagonal to the foam. This can leave more useful spaces for scenery and structures. It also makes the layout a bit different and more interesting than running parallel to the edges of the table. All these suggestions are just that. The decision to use any of them, or not, is strictly up to you.

Have fun!

Traction Fan

Attachment 518518

Attachment 518520

Attachment 518522

Awesome thank you. I do got some turnouts and more track in route, and I like the idea of positioning the oval diagonally
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Old 12-16-2019, 10:12 PM   #16
traction fan
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West What track and turnouts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_Ogle View Post
Awesome thank you. I do got some turnouts and more track in route, and I like the idea of positioning the oval diagonally
Robert;

What brand and type of turnouts did you order? Your basic oval looks like Atlas sectional track. Is that what you are using? If so, the track is OK, but the Atlas "Snap Switch" turnouts are not OK, in fact they're quite bad. I attached a file "All about turnouts" which should help you pick a better brand. The other files just have lots of information n model railroading in general.

Good luck, & have fun;

Traction Fan

All AboutTurnouts rev 5.pdf

WHERE DO I START rev 4.pdf

Paintbrush Pine Trees.pdf

Model Railroad Terminology 3.pdf

MODEL RAILROADING ON A BUDGET.pdf

N-scale cars for sale.pdf

N-scale houses.pdf

Lighting a layout with LEDs.pdf
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Old 12-16-2019, 10:17 PM   #17
Robert_Ogle
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Originally Posted by traction fan View Post
Robert;

What brand and type of turnouts did you order? Your basic oval looks like Atlas sectional track. Is that what you are using? If so, the track is OK, but the Atlas "Snap Switch" turnouts are not OK, in fact they're quite bad. I attached a file "All about turnouts" which should help you pick a better brand. The other files just have lots of information n model railroading in general.

Good luck, & have fun;

Traction Fan

Attachment 518548

Attachment 518550

Attachment 518552

Attachment 518554

Attachment 518556

Attachment 518558

Attachment 518560

Attachment 518562

Thank you for the links. All my tracks are kato unitrack, M1 oval, kato # 6 turnouts (right/left) from one of the sideline kits.

I'm keeping my first layout all unitrack go limit the number of variables in the equation
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Old 12-16-2019, 11:05 PM   #18
traction fan
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West Kato Unitrack turnouts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_Ogle View Post
Thank you for the links. All my tracks are kato unitrack, M1 oval, kato # 6 turnouts (right/left) from one of the sideline kits.

I'm keeping my first layout all unitrack go limit the number of variables in the equation
Robert;

Looking at your photo, I couldn't see the gray plastic roadbed under the track. May be my 71-year-old eyesight!
Both Kato Unitrack, and Kato #6 turnouts, have a very good reputation. You should be happy with your choice. If you go down a couple of threads in this N-scale section, to the thread, "What's the most reliable N-scale track?" you will find many recommendations for Kato Unitrack.

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