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O Scale Atlas, Bachman, Hornby, K-Line, Lionel and classic toy train discussion.


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Old 10-18-2015, 02:21 PM   #11
teledoc
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Scales Modeled: Postwar/Prewar tinplate "O" scale
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Ironclad, once you get a transformer (AC), you can test the motor without the pick up shoes, very easily. The pick up shoes are part 1661-33, and as recommended, by sjm9911, from a reputable dealer. They run from $1-1.50 each from the better dealers.

If you have the transformer, just take the collector plate off the motor, to get access to the single wire going to the E unit. Use a set of test leads from the transformer, and connect one lead to the wire/copper plate, and connect the other lead to the metal frame or body which is the ground return path. Hold the loco upright In your hand, and turn the voltage up on the transformer. This will show if it runs or not. If it does run, that is success, but it won't indicate if the E unit is working properly. If it runs, when you first test it, cycle the transformer off and on, if a small transformer, or use the reverse control if it is a better transformer. That will show any problems with the reverse unit. It's a really simple test, but just buy the collector shoes, as they are cheap enough.

Last edited by teledoc; 10-18-2015 at 02:31 PM..
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Old 10-28-2015, 05:11 PM   #12
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So i got the new feed rail contacts, worked perfectly. Picked up a few pieces off eBay for cheap, a tender and a caboose, both postwar so they have the knuckle couplers. Thanks for all the help, friends.
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Old 10-28-2015, 05:15 PM   #13
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Incidentally, I had no idea the new Lionel track (that i just picked up today at the Hobbytown) were so much different than the older track. I found the rusty piece in a section of wall in my parent's house, and the shiny one is the stuff I bought off the rack at Hobbytown.
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Old 10-28-2015, 05:27 PM   #14
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The two tracks are both used for three rail locos, but the difference is the Left rail is "0" gauge rail, the Right rail is "027" track. They can't usually be used together without special track pins. The "0" rail used a larger diameter track pin, and that is your restriction with using both. Some locos (Lionel" have a deeper wheel flange that will only work on the taller "0" track, but may derail, if run on "027". When connecting the track, it is very, very important that you have tight connections. The track pins need to be tight. The quickest way to tell the two tracks apart are the 3 railroad ties. The "027" are perfectly flat on the bottom, and the "0" ties are curled up across the tie. "0" tracks are 11/16" tall, 027 is 7/16" tall.

Last edited by teledoc; 10-28-2015 at 06:02 PM..
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Old 10-28-2015, 05:32 PM   #15
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Docs got it covered! If using both tracks together use the larger pin and bend the 027 track to fit. The difference underneath can be made up underneath with shims. Nice eBay finds!
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Old 10-29-2015, 10:21 AM   #16
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Teledoc, thanks for the info, i thought all the track for O and O27 were uniform. I'm going to be using the brand new O27, because it's, well, new, and because i can get more for cheap at my hobby store.
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Old 10-29-2015, 10:47 AM   #17
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Ironclad, A lot of people get confused with the two versions, because if you just look at the top of the track, the rails are spaced the same. The height of the rail 11/16" & 7/16" is what tells the difference. Some older (Prewar, early Postwar) have wheel flanges that are deeper than others, and need the extra rail height for smoother running. When you get into switches/turnouts, then you get into other problems with wheel flanges, linkage, etc. that can get hung up on certain switches. There is a wealth of info here, that covers different styles of track, switches, and how to modify them. All you have to do is use the search function.
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Old 10-29-2015, 03:27 PM   #18
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For the time being, i'm just going for a simple loop. If i get more into it i'll look for O stuff on eBay
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