Originally Posted by foreverautistic
oh also i forgot i have both direction switch boxed
type a and b
type a <i have 6> i read can burnout the turnouts if not careful
and it dont always switch to where i want it
now type b < i have 5> 4 of the 5 dont work > and it cost arond 68 bucks for each turnout it cost to much to buy the track just for switch and i call them they said it be a long time and with back orders and only sell just type a
i take to the rEPAIR SERVICE and she said they only repair trains
but she said she had 3 in her desk and send to me w:ell its been 2 weeks and nothing i give that lying Lady and bachman 2
so yes i am gonnas replace that with peco
also once i replace all bach tracks turnouts with peco and save more because i want go dcc
it get borning only get run one loc for my layout Main Line and a nice railyard
its about 9 12 feet by about 7 12 ft wide
It sounds like you have a good-sized layout at 12-1/2 feet by 9-1/2 feet. I wonder how you can get to all areas of that big a layout, for track cleaning and re-railing trains. Can you get to all four sides of your layout? Or does it have an open area in the middle?
I have never used Bachmann EZ-Track turnouts, but I have heard a lot about them here on the forum. Nearly everything said about those Bachmann EZ-Track turnouts was bad, mostly derailment issues. Now you tell me that they cost over $60 each! That's outrageous!
Peco's excellent turnouts retail price is about $30 each, and you can often buy them for less than that.
This is one of the disadvantages of using a"roadbed" track system, like Bachmann's EZ-Track, or Kato's "Unitrack." Since EZ-Track is designed to connect only to more EZ-Track, you are hooked on Bachmann's track, including Bachmann's turnouts, whether good or bad, and at whatever price they want to charge. However, it is possible to adapt roadbed track to connect to either sectional track or flex track. So If you want to replaced the Bachmann turnouts, and still use the Bachmann track you have already paid for, you could do so.
I know you want to switch over to all Peco track and turnouts, and that's good. Peco track and turnouts are both excellent.
If someone wanted to use a roadbed track, then Kato Unitrack is much better quality, including Kato turnouts. Kato Unitrack also has a lot more different shapes and sizes of track pieces available. Their only disadvantage is cost. Kato Unitrack is the most expensive brand of roadbed track.
Peco, and other brands of sectional, (and flex) track are designed so that they can can be easily connected to each other. So someone could use Peco turnouts, and Atlas sectional track pieces, for example.
Turnouts that use "twin-coil" switch machines (Atlas, Peco, Bachmann, and Kato) can burn out a coil if the button that operates the turnout is held down more than a second or two. To prevent this burnout, you can use a control button called a "Stapleton 751D" This turnout control contains a circuit called a "Capacitive Discharge Unit, or CDU. This feature makes it impossible to burnout a coil, even if the button is held down too long, or the button itself shorts out. (Atlas blue buttons, that come with their turnouts, have sometimes shorted, and burned out a coil.)
Going to DCC is a good idea. I recommend the "NCE Powercab" DCC controller system. It is very simple to hook up since all the electronics are in one compact, hand-held unit. You just connect two wires from the track to the NCE Powercab. The NCE Powercab costs about $200, but you can sometimes find discounts. Compared to most other DCC systems, that's actually a pretty low price. I use the NCE Powercab on my layout, and I like it a lot. Easy to use, easy to program, and easy to hook up. It has all the features of more expensive systems and it's affordable too.
Your locomotives will each need to have a DCC decoder inside them. The easy way to do this is to buy a locomotive with DCC already installed at the factory. Most such locomotives have DCC decoders that control only the motor, and headlight. This is fine for running more than one locomotive, on the same track. It's also possible to buy locomotives with DCC, and sound on-board. These locomotives will be advertised as having sound, and will cost more. The sounds include chuff chuff sound for steam locomotives, diesel engine sounds, couplers clashing, bells and whistles or air horns.
The locomotive you have now may be converted to DCC by installing a DCC decoder. If you're good at soldering, you can do this yourself. If you prefer, you can pay someone to do it for you.
good luck, & have fun!