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Old 09-28-2019, 12:42 AM   #11
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Missouri
Posts: 4,632
Scales Modeled: HO mainly, N, S, O, G

Deane, This is a crossing signal I put together. Super cheap.
Less than a dollar but I already had the Bachmann cross bucks.
The cross buck had a round piece of red plastic that popped right out and the leds fit perfectly. The Leds were flashing Leds. They
flash a little fast but no biggie to me. I did not want to mess with sensors either. I run my trains slow so not a problem to turn
on/off switch to on as train approaches the crossing. LOL, keeps me involved.
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Old 09-28-2019, 05:15 AM   #12
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: yorkton, sask
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Scales Modeled: HO 1890's
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on one of my posts i have a link to a flasher that will run off 12 volt, the kit is less than a buck,

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Old 09-28-2019, 10:01 AM   #13
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Location: SE-PA, USA
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Scales Modeled: O-gauge 3-rail
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Z-Stuff has some self-contained signals that have built-in sensors, so you just plop them by the track and wire them to power.
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Old 09-28-2019, 12:59 PM   #14
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Atco, NJ....near the race track
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keep the discussion going

In my humble opinion, install the signals with a 3 or 4 point terminal board under the layout.

For example a 3-color LED signal will have 6 wires, you would connect one wire of each bulb to terminal 1, red to terminal 2, yellow to terminal 3, green to terminal 4.

For now, run DC power negative to terminal 1, positive to any other terminal.

You could buy the inexpensive Chinese e-bay signal lights for now, and replace later with better looking signals.

Now we need some experts to tell us who makes good true to scale tower signals. I've been trying to make my own with 3mm LED's, but they may be too large (10 diameter in HO scale)
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Electrical Engineer: Retired
Former SEPTA Regional Rail Division electrician
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Old 09-28-2019, 01:19 PM   #15
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
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Scales Modeled: HO, too blind and fumble fingered for N
Originally Posted by Deane Johnson View Post

I happened to run into a set that is pretty reflective of the U.P. around Omaha, so I figured this being home base for the U.P., they were no doubt chosen by the U.P. The price is cheap, they are LED, so I thought I'd start with these as a "mess with set". They're even the right color for U.P.
Here, Dean, save a few bucks:
"If the women don't find ya handsome, they should at least find ya handy!"
Red Green
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Old 09-28-2019, 05:20 PM   #16
D&J Railroad
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Location: King George, VA
Posts: 2,616
Scales Modeled: HO only and some G scale stuff for display
BLMA used to market some real nice signal heads and masts. I would think they can still be found on ebay. I think Atlas bought them out and is turning them into more of a toy like signal for the Christmas tree layouts.

Chief Operator and creator of the D&J Railroad
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Old 09-28-2019, 05:24 PM   #17
Deane Johnson
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 575
Scales Modeled: HO - U.P. & CB&Q
Dennis461: I concur with your thoughts. I terminate everything under the layout with a terminal strip. Various number terminals for assorted applications. Soldering under the layout, or using the various clip on devices aren't for me. Probably traces back to my start in life as a broadcast engineer where everything had to work every time. My thoughts on approach are pretty much as you described.

Flyboy2510: I ordered yesterday via Amazon Prime for a couple of dollars more than the link you posted. Exact same product. It arrives tomorrow (Sunday). I'm anxious to see how the quality looks.

My layout is about 15' x 25' with double track mainline. I'm now thinking I might divide the loop in at minimum 2 blocks on each track so that the signals can be made to actually work, but without going to a huge amount of trouble at this time. I like long trains, so long blocks would seem appropriate, though I haven't learned enough to develop a feel for that factor yet.

I've quickly learned that automatic signals take a lot of learning and understanding, something I'm not ready to devote time to right now.

One thing that has already popped into my mind is that with double track mainline all the way, I may need the signal bridge type rather than the stand alone type I ordered. The signal bridge type appear to be rather a rare commodity.

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Old 09-29-2019, 12:05 PM   #18
Deane Johnson
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 575
Scales Modeled: HO - U.P. & CB&Q
The 3 signals addressed earlier in this thread came today. Very impressive for the money. Detail is excellent and realistic. I have no criticism of any kind.

Wiring is well done. 4 leads. One positive with built in resistor, and 3 negative with color coded wires for the appropriate colored light.

Now comes the hard part, deciding what the control circuit will be comprised of, where to locate the signals, and how to break up the track in appropriate blocks.

Funny how I always start off thinking simple and then research leads me to complexity.

Oh yes, and my "Deane Still Plays With Trains" tee shirt came today.

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