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Old 12-29-2015, 09:58 PM   #1
T-Man
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259E The New Candidate

I have been commissioned to get this up and running so I thought a detailed thread would do it justice. To start. one old slightly weathered 259E.




I didn't even bother to try it on the track. The side rods are badly rusted so the first decision was to replace them. Since they are riveted to the frame I decides to use a spare frame and steam chest .





So the replacement steam chest and frame went to the Easy Off Strip Pan.



Here is used some silicone to coat the guides before painting.



Of course I had to undo the rusty frame from the boiler. It took a couple of tabs ( 6 to 8) to remove it. I first removed the motor( one nut) and the drive rod bolts (4).
More on the motor later.

The frame painted up nicely. Nothing fancy one coat primer and a Walmart gloss black. The steam chest gave me trouble and is in a redo loop( stripping again).

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Last edited by T-Man; 12-29-2015 at 10:09 PM..
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Old 12-29-2015, 10:31 PM   #2
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The motor

There was a lot of cracked wires.



And no center rollers.



I cut out the old wires removed the e unit, and with a spreader I removed the bottom insert for the missing rollers.







One nice feature is the armature can be removed from the frame without a wheel removal.



The armature face plate was cleaned by using a drill and spinning it with 300 grit and 400 grit sandpaper.

Then I replaced the wire feed from the frame coil.



I had to remove the light socket first by drilling out a rivet, and then replaced the wire.



The lamp frame was attached with a 4-40 screw and nut.



The boring part was to wire brush the frame clean. Through all this I am working a parts lists.

The brush plate gets cleaned up with a little oil and q tips. The brushes are lightly cleaned by rubbing them on card stock . Then the test is next. Without the reverse unit it is very easy to test. The wire I replaced from the field coil on the frame gets connected to a brush. Then with two wires from a transformer touch one on the frame and the other to the second brush. It should run, it did.
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Last edited by T-Man; 12-29-2015 at 11:08 PM..
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Old 12-29-2015, 11:00 PM   #3
teledoc
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T-Man, Why such a simple project?? It doesn't look "too far gone" to be one of your usual candidates!!! Rust removal, strip, primer, repaint, you should be done before New Year's Day!!! Is it one of yours, or for someone else? Either way, we know what to expect. You got the motor to run, so you are way ahead of the game. What parts are you going to need???

Last edited by teledoc; 12-29-2015 at 11:12 PM..
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Old 12-29-2015, 11:17 PM   #4
T-Man
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It's for someone else. So it is a repeat performance. I got to have an easy one now and then.
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Old 12-29-2015, 11:19 PM   #5
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Thought so, and it will get the T-man touch for sure!
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Old 12-30-2015, 05:34 AM   #6
MattR
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Hi quite the project!

Is there a reason you use silicone instead of grease for areas you don't want paint on? I use grease as it wipes off, whereas silicone drys to a rubber consistency and sticks a bit.

I have learned that trick over the years painting heavy equipment. We would coat the chrome parts of hydraulic cylinders before painting, then simply wipe it off afterwards. Same for other areas as well. Some gauge faces etc.

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Old 12-30-2015, 11:07 AM   #7
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Cool beans, looking forward to seeing the finished result.
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Old 12-30-2015, 11:16 AM   #8
T-Man
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Ahhh never thought of grease but the silicone is cleaner. I normally use tape but tried something different. The silicone was kinda thick.

Next the e unit.

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Old 12-30-2015, 12:01 PM   #9
teledoc
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Oh yeah, that definitely needs some work....Suppose it's getting a complete rebuild, all new innards!! Let me know about the cab weight I mentioned in my PM.

And Pitchy, do the "cool beans" have to be Van Camp???
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Old 12-30-2015, 01:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
And Pitchy, do the "cool beans" have to be Van Camp???
Naw any beans will do.
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