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Discussion Starter #1
Just started putting a layout together, and, using primarily 022 switches.

Having some problems, and, maybe I just don't know how the are supposed to work.

Have about 30 feet of point to point track with switch in the middle. Power is supplied to the track with a clip on about 2 feet away from the points end of the switch.

I can run the engine back and forth on this piece of track just fine. I don't have the switch wired up yet, and, am just using it manually. If I turn the switch manually from straight through to "switched", as soon as I apply track power, the switch starts to buzz, and, switches itself back to straight through position).

Did as much research as I could, and, found I had not put in the insulating pins these require on the outer curve rail (maybe they need to be on the inner one??)
Put these in, and, no difference, no matter what I do, the switch always returns to straight through as soon as power is applied to the rails.

Any diagrams on how these are wired up internally??

Any ideas what's wrong. I tried another switch, and, it does the same thing.

Oh, using a Train Master for power.
 

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Many of the newer switches run from track power and have a non derailing feature: If the switch is in the wrong position when a train crosses the track at the switch the switch automatically switches to the correct position.
There are insulated pins in several places for this to work. I do not have an o22 switch but on the o27 switches this is how it is. If no one else has the info for the insulated pins I can dig out the directions. Don
 

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Just started putting a layout together, and, using primarily 022 switches.

Having some problems, and, maybe I just don't know how the are supposed to work.

Have about 30 feet of point to point track with switch in the middle. Power is supplied to the track with a clip on about 2 feet away from the points end of the switch.

I can run the engine back and forth on this piece of track just fine. I don't have the switch wired up yet, and, am just using it manually. If I turn the switch manually from straight through to "switched", as soon as I apply track power, the switch starts to buzz, and, switches itself back to straight through position).

Did as much research as I could, and, found I had not put in the insulating pins these require on the outer curve rail (maybe they need to be on the inner one??)
Put these in, and, no difference, no matter what I do, the switch always returns to straight through as soon as power is applied to the rails.

Any diagrams on how these are wired up internally??

Any ideas what's wrong. I tried another switch, and, it does the same thing.

Oh, using a Train Master for power.
As per the instructions,

"your switch is also non-derailing. trains approaching an "open" switch (one
thrown in the opposite direction) will not derail while passing through.
Special wiring ensures the switch will automatically throw itself to the
correct position."


With the switch motor box towards you put the insulating pins on the rail
for each direction but place it on the rail closest to you. The other two
rails for each directions get metal pins.

Furthermore the manual states...

"Never replace the insulating pins with metal pins. This will override the non-
derailing feature and could harm the switch. The control rails are connected
internally to the switch coils."

So I would first check to make sure you have the insulating pins in the
correct place.

Pookybear
 

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my directions show the insulated pins on the two inner rails (rails closest to each other) on the side that had the straight and curved on it. It does not have and insulated pins on the side with the straight only part. Don


p.s. by 2 inner rails I mean the rails that are to the inside of the switch straight/turn. the rails closest to each other
 

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On the o27 (5121 and 5122) the insulated pins are shown on the 2 inner rails. Different than the o22. i would have thought they would be the same. that's what I get for thinking! Don
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys, I did figure it out by just pulling the track from the end of the switch and, watching for sparks as I just touched the track pins to the switch rail ends.

Needed one more insulator on the "inside" straight rail.

Electrons baffle me, but, I understand sparks, having shorted myself out on many occasions.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It's so obvious when you think about it. Without the insulating pins, the switch always thinks there is a train comming the wrong way. Doh!!!!:rolleyes:
 
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