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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering what type coupler goes on this little tender I got with my 1668 engine... Descriptions of the coupler and a complete list of part #'s so I can run it with a car or something...Thanks. 001.JPG

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you sir!! I'll have to hook up with Jeff Kane tomorrow for the needed parts....
 

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Railroad Tycoon
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I have seen some with the whole truck replaced with a knuckle coupler on it instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I got the coupler from Jeff and he explained how it installs...however.. for the life of me, something is wrong here.I just can't figure this simple install out. Does the coupler shank go through the slot??. Does the small tab then get twisted to secure the coupler?? The picture shown don't tell me how to install the coupler in the way the pictures detail.At a loss here. 001.JPG

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Yard Master & Research
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I checked 6 tenders and all of them are box end attached to the truck. However the commodore has the same angles for the drawbar. The key is the tab is 180 degrees off it goes down not up. Hopefully it will not break. You will need the step down bend because the slot is above the frame.


IMG_0473.JPG

I searched five more tenders all box end. Except this. Lionel Jr. Right TJ?

Not exact but is has the tab down.

IMG_0479.JPG
 

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Your tender needs the "twist" section bent down, not up.

It seems the aftermarket replacement latch couplers come with the twist portion "pre-bent" upwards. Where as the original couplers were straight ready to be bent up or down. See the pic, CP7 coupler.

You may be able to bend it down without snapping it, not sure. Others may have a trick or two for that.

Latch.png
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The tab being bent the wrong way was what I thought also. I don't want to bend it back as I'm afraid it's going to snap...We'll see... Thanks all.
 

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As noted above, you bent the tab the wrong way. It goes thru slot on end wall, and the tab goes down, the gets twisted. You can try to try straighten out, very, very slowly, & a little at a time. It’s an iffy proposition, & you may break it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
As noted above, you bent the tab the wrong way. It goes thru slot on end wall, and the tab goes down, the gets twisted. You can try to try straighten out, very, very slowly, & a little at a time. It’s an iffy proposition, & you may break it.
That's the way it came.
 

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Loren, I am surprised that it came that way, with the end tab, bent in the opposite direction. The correct coupler is the standard CP-7, and the part that goes into the end panel, should be straight, and not be bent. I usually put a slight bend, downward, to make it easier to put the tab in line with the hole in the bottom of the frame. Then I use needle nose pliers, to finish the bend, and then twist the end tab, to lock it in place on the bottom of the frame. Chances are, that you will probably break the tab, if you try to bend it 180 degrees, to mount it correctly. You will probably have to order another CP-7, and make sure, that the long piece, doesn't have any bend. I usually buy 5-10 couplers, to have on hand, to replace missing couplers, on some of the junk I buy, to restore.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Loren, I am surprised that it came that way, with the end tab, bent in the opposite direction. The correct coupler is the standard CP-7, and the part that goes into the end panel, should be straight, and not be bent. I usually put a slight bend, downward, to make it easier to put the tab in line with the hole in the bottom of the frame. Then I use needle nose pliers, to finish the bend, and then twist the end tab, to lock it in place on the bottom of the frame. Chances are, that you will probably break the tab, if you try to bend it 180 degrees, to mount it correctly. You will probably have to order another CP-7, and make sure, that the long piece, doesn't have any bend. I usually buy 5-10 couplers, to have on hand, to replace missing couplers, on some of the junk I buy, to restore.
Yes, I know I'll break it if I try... Jeff walked me threw the procedure..I'll have to call him..
 

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Aside from Jeff correcting the issue ...

If you bend it and it breaks, you could probably solder it together in the correct orientation Extra solder spanning the top could increase the strength. You'll need to sand the finish for the solder to take. Plumber's flux might be best but plain rosin core electrical solder should also work.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I called Jeff yesterday and he told me to try heating it to make the bend correct..He said if I broke it, he would gladly send me a new, correct one...After we talked for a while, he checked on his stock, and sure enough, all the couplers he had were incorrectly bent. I did get the right bend in it by heating it, and all is good. Thanks everyone for the help/tips, and thanks to Jeff, he's a super guy. I've met him in person, and he's great.
 

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I'm a little late to the party but I'm working on two 1698W tenders. Same frame and chassis as yours. Yeah, the tabs are bent down, quite opposite of other prewar rolling stock I have worked on. Two photos if they help. Sorry, the second didn't focus because the tab is under the pickup roller.

Top View:
20191108_223326.jpg

Bottom View:
20191108_224636.jpg

Alternate of what most prewar rolling stock that I have worked with:
20171215_213054.jpg

IHTH
 
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