[T-Man]

This was produced in 65,66 with a die cast body,plastic motor two postion reverse and a liquid smoke unit.

Photo with original dirt. The drawbar section missing from the 250.

The plastic motor with the reverse switch on top. I clean the armature with a Q tip through a small hole
One screw was a sheet metal one and I had to drill and tap a replacement.

The motor ran fine after I cleaned the wheels.It does have one rubber traction tire. Initially the motor did not work, I left the smoke unit out for now.

One thing about those small nuts holding the brush areas together. They are 1/8 and very thin. I had to grind my nutdriver flat to turn it . The recess was just a little to much .

 

[Reckers]

Nice job, T. More from your bulk purchase?

 

[T-Man]

Yes the box had three, the 250,1060, and this one. I figure most people are familiar with these beginer engines. Collectors tend to shy away from them. They work well and are still around for a song.

For differences, I purchased years ago my first Scout the 1130. metal engine, plastic body. I recently got a 2034 a metal eng, metal bod. The 1060 and 1062 are all plastic. Now this one with a plastic eng and metal bod.

People wonder why I need specifics to help them.
A lot of variations exists. That is why I am doing them by engine number as I get them.

Funny I have six now and I only wanted two.
The modern versions 1980 ans up my son has a DC version the 8903 and the 8632 is DC but uses AC with the electronic eunit.

You need the references to keep track.
I was thinking about the 1060, it has no reverse. Maybe I could convert it to DC and use it on the trolley track?

Another thing about references is the catalogs only have one picture. Here, You can see the engine up close and notice the differences. The part diagrams do not have the actual picture but a drawing, so here you can actuallly see what the part looks like. That's another reason I do them one by one as I get them.

 

[T-Man]

The 239 clean and ready to go. Sporting new railings. I forgot to clean the tender.

The plastic motor does have flat heads so a flat edge is needed on the nut driver. The first show the 1/4 and a not so flat 4mm. The second picture is a 1/8th driver, I needed flat for the back of the 022 switches. I have a few of those to clean up.

 

[Reckers]

THat lil guy is nothing but sharp, T!

 

[Chiefmcfuz]

Very nice job!

 

[RichT]

The 239 clean and ready to go. Sporting new railings. I forgot to clean the tender.

Great Job... I have a 2256 that's is in need of some TLC, It too is missing a rail. Did you make that or buy it? If you made it, what is it made out of? The closest thing I can find is aluminum wire, but its way to soft and bends at the slightest touch. Can't seem to find stainless wire anyplace local.

 

[Reckers]

Great Job... I have a 2256 that's is in need of some TLC, It too is missing a rail. Did you make that or buy it? If you made it, what is it made out of? The closest thing I can find is aluminum wire, but its way to soft and bends at the slightest touch. Can't seem to find stainless wire anyplace local.

You might try looking for piano wire: call a piano repair place and ask if they have any. Be prepared for "What gauge wire?" Also, try a lapidary (jewelry-making) supply shop. Some jewelry is made using stainless, such as ear-hooks for pierced earrings. Also, a trick I learned working in stained glass with lead: stretch your wire. Clamp it in a vise, put on safety glasses and grab the other end with vise-grip pliers and puuuulll. This results in something called work-tempering, like when you repeatedly bend a metal coathanger; it starts off flexible and suddenly gets rigid and breaks instead of bending. Anyway, it makes the lead straight and rigid; might help that aluminum or stainless grow a backbone.

 

[T-Man]

Try tig wire from a welding shop. Get it small, under 1/16th. A working shop may waste the last foot off a reel. It does come in sticks too.