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Glad you liked it George.. It was a pleasure working on this one, no complicated issue, etc.. BUT.. I couldn't watch the video,lol.. It's not like I didn't see it run on my lay-out,lol.
 

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Great job flyernut. It runs good. Another one you have ressurrected from the dead.
You are da man.
 

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Here's something you all will enjoy. After working on George's 332, I decided to get mine out for a couple of laps. Well, it wouldn't run!!!!.. I take pride in my fleet so off to the workshop it went. It ran SOME, but no speed at all.. What I found, and I don't know how I missed it, but the rear bushing in the brush bracket assembly spun, it's supposed to be staked in place. Another thing, and this was really the culprit, the front drive wheels were very tight and would barely turn. This was causing a drag, making the engine run very sluggish. I blew out the front wheel set with CRC and it immediately freed up the wheel set. I left it to dry, and once dry, I oiled the axles. She's now back in service.
 

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These model AF steamers are similar to real steam engines. They require lots of
maintenance and lubes. Its always something to keep them in top form. My 336
needs to go in the shop. It runs forward just fine. Reverse is slower than it should be.
I suspect a frayed harness wire. Well, that is 2 rear bushings that are spinning, that
you have found in a week. I need to start looking for that when I work on these locos.
Thanks for telling us what you found. I pay attention when you speak and have learned
alot. Thanks. Always nice to put one back in service.
 

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These model AF steamers are similar to real steam engines. They require lots of
maintenance and lubes. Its always something to keep them in top form. My 336
needs to go in the shop. It runs forward just fine. Reverse is slower than it should be.
I suspect a frayed harness wire. Well, that is 2 rear bushings that are spinning, that
you have found in a week. I need to start looking for that when I work on these locos.
Thanks for telling us what you found. I pay attention when you speak and have learned
alot. Thanks. Always nice to put one back in service.
I have around 8 smoke units ready to go, brush bracket assemblies all ready to go, armatures, about a dozen field coils all tested and ready, and about a dozen of those bronze bushings as spares..One of the most common problems I see is when the armature won't turn the drive wheels, and the problem is a seized smoke unit, that is the gear is seized up with either smoke fluid or old grease. And if I may, if you look at one of those rear bronze bushings, you'll see a pattern of marks at the 12'00 o'clock 3,6, and 9.. Try to get them back into the correct spot, that is where they push right in without any trouble.Thinking that if you mis-align that bushing to make it tight, you'll have to either tap it in, and push it in somehow. When you do that, you'll make the bushing oblong, and the armature rear shaft will no longer fit into bushing.. Don't ask how I know!! JB Weld the bushing in, let cure for 24 hours.
 

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Thanks for the tip about the bushing, can't recall if I ever had one come out. I'll keep that in mind if and when I have to take one apart. I try not to if possible. Thanks again for your extensive repair knowledge and help.:appl::appl:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes it did smoke, but only on higher voltages. I could not run it very fast on my dining room table! I ran it stationary at higher voltages and it smoked well.
 

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If you want a better smoke unit, send me just the engine and I'll change it out for a new rebuilt one...No charge..Loren
 

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Could try adding 12 drops of smoke fluid if that was not already done prior to the demo run on the video.
 
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