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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I found this over the weekend at a train show, With a low price I could not resist. I got a man at the parts table and it does work.

My picture account has a new style and is out to get me. I cannot do anything as fast as before . I will have to continue later.


 

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Yard Master & Research
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10,864 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The T-man Tango Time To Transform the Target Thing

So I have a good deal, with all the parts and it works. Just a point, the barrels more on a spring supported ramp and is vibrated by a cylinder .



Tango, the frame is painted.










TIme to transform, first I stripped the paint.
 

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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Strip

I worked the ramp first. Just light sanding and a coat of grey primer on the top and sides. The bottom was unfinished so I blued the surface.





You can see the spring suppot on the left.



The frame was primed first. Wartmart greyprimer and gloss black.

The frame was stripped with paint remover and scotchbrite. The paint went fast and I finished with a wire wheel and rubbing compound ,again with scotchbrite and at last, cleaned with paint thinner.











 

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Yard Master & Research
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10,864 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Word on wiring.

Very simple. Power is picked up from a third and fourth rail like a 6019 track.
The trucks have the sliding shoe.



Both wires go to the coil. The coil is soldered to the side of the cup which is grounded to the frame.



Now to clean the trucks. As if I have not done that before.:rolleyes:
 

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Paper Shuffler Extraordinaire
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1,611 Posts
Nice find, I have one of them. Mine is a fairly clean 3652-150 (orange body) which requires a rewire. Since I don't have the activator track or controller, I've been putting it off. I found out the hard way the lettering is delicate when cleaning, sucks rubbed a couple letters off with gentle cleaning.

Carl
 

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Yard Master & Research
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10,864 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The mechanism is simple. I would think a USC or a 6019 track would run it The manual had a few variations. One had a clip on specifically for that car to place on the track.

If you run it wth a track piece use only one shoe connection. I am not sure how they are wired. CHeck the wiring before a test run.

When I get an opportunity I will do a video on the operation without a shell. It would be interesting just to see it work. Good Idea.

You always have to be careful with lettering. That is one reason I take before pictures. My brother owns the orange version too.
 

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Paper Shuffler Extraordinaire
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The mechanism is simple. I would think a USC or a 6019 track would run it The manual had a few variations. One had a clip on specifically for that car to place on the track.
I have that clip then, just didn't know what it was for. Looks like the lock-on with 2 rails, with the ground going to the rails. I'll just have to come up with a controller.
 

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Paper Shuffler Extraordinaire
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The barrels are wood. I vaguely remember seeing it work as a kid, was cool. I also have the old log dump car, not sure it works yet. Once I get the trigger components set up, I'll get to fixing things. Do you happen to know the part number on the switch offhand? If not I can search for it. That clip looks exactly like mine.

Carl
 

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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I guess we are all learning something today.

TJ, the barrels are all wood. The vibrating drives the barrels. Why they go up and not down I have no idea why. :confused: A mystery.

Kickster, thank you for mentioning the clip. I did a search and have one. Neat!
:thumbsup:

They button is a number 90 controller and is not made anymore. A train show item. Just about any momentary switch would work.

Expect to see more on the controller I need to fix one case. It's on the plaster list.





It needs some cleaning.
The manual also showed a 96c controller. A metal version of the 90 controller. I did find one in the junk box. Now I need some fresh batteries to show you:eek:hwell:.
 

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Admin
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Here's the way the motion works drives the barrels.

The vibrating coil moves the ramp back and forth. When the ramp of either of these accessories moves toward the up side, the vibration mounts also cam the ramp up slightly, when it moves toward the down side, the ramp cams down. Look at the angle of the spring steel mounts, they slant toward the bottom of the ramp. If you push the ramp toward the high side, it tends to rise. When the ramp is rising, it carries the barrels along, when it falls, they just drop straight down onto the ramp a bit higher than before.

Obviously, this is happening at 60hz, so you don't see the vibration, but you can sure here it.
 

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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Truck cleaning

Why you use a small screwdriver, first to scrape the wheels.:D





The pans have the pickup shoe. I did not replace the wire. I cleaned the inside with a q tip and Goo Gone, No rust was present . So I just needed to paint the bottom exterior. I did epoxy the shoe backing. I do not want them to break, ever. :)



 

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Yard Master & Research
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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Final Phase Roll Out the Barrel

:thumbsup:Hire the worker. Solder up the connections. The speed nuts for the ramp have some slack. It is better to place the shell on first to center the ramp before it's tighten. Then it was ready, for a spin around the track. :)

I have to look at the track sections. They didn't work. Something else to do. The bench test proved it has plenty of power. Half throttle was enough to move the barrels. The ground is good for the wheels.









The letering appears to be dark blue making this variation b in the Tandem Library. Maybe it is Royal Blue?





John thanks for the explanation on the ramp operation :thumbsup:.
 
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