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Discussion Starter #101
Pretty nice layout, looking good.
Seems to run good as well.
Good find.

Magic
I am pretty happy with the purchase. I got off lucky as I bought it with out looking at it in person.

As i stated above, there are some track issues where flex track meet in corners and have kinks. I will need to pull some nails, straighten the joint, solder the 2 pieces of track, then soften the area where the two tracks meet. These kinks have prevented my larger loco's from running such as my PA-1.

Does this sound like a proper way to correct the problem?

This layout has nothing soldered except for power feed wires to track. None of the track is glued down, only nails every so often.

Is it possible to glue track down in place with out lifting it? Such as while gluing down the gravel road bed?

The minor problem I have is how to scenic this layout. I am going to have to look at it and see how i can make it interesting where I can add lights and such. Really its almost not possible as there is no place for a town other than at the base where the train yard will be. That leaves the mountain bare. I am going to probably run some high power towers with lights, then have them terminate to a power station which feeds the train repair facility.

Definitely going to add a couple of Jeeps (CJ's or YJ's) trying to climb the mountain from the right side. At least then I can get some headlight and taillights. And try to add interest during the night time runs when I want a darker run.

I really need/want someone to come to my house and look at what i have and consult me on where to go with the priority's to get this layout up to par again.
 

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I think your PA not running has more to do with the curve radius than any kinks. The PA doesn't just have 3 axle trucks, but very long ones at that. Your PA may never run properly on those curves; mine can just barely handle a 22" radius.

Any kinks in the track should be corrected, but you may have to pull up large segments of track to do it. Best practice is to solder the joints with the track straight, THEN curve it. What kind of turnouts are those? If they're Snap Switches, you might want to consider replacing them as well, althoughthat will change the whole geometry and require a lot of rework.

Simply ballasting the track will glue it down, and that may be your best bet. You can also lift it slightly and spread a little caulk under it with a putty knife.

As far as helping in person... there appear to be over a dozen Pierce Counties in the US, none of them close enough to me for it to be an option. Sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #103
I think your PA not running has more to do with the curve radius than any kinks. The PA doesn't just have 3 axle trucks, but very long ones at that. Your PA may never run properly on those curves; mine can just barely handle a 22" radius...

...As far as helping in person... there appear to be over a dozen Pierce Counties in the US, none of them close enough to me for it to be an option. Sorry.
I have updated my profile to specify that I am in Wa... lol

I will say regarding the PA-1, much of the exposed track that I ran the PA on did fine, with exception of the 1 outer track where the kink is due to not being soldered. And why I will be making it a priority to go thru the entire layout to solder and glue. The track in the mountain is the big question I will need to investigate.

John
 

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I have updated my profile to specify that I am in Wa... lol

I will say regarding the PA-1, much of the exposed track that I ran the PA on did fine, with exception of the 1 outer track where the kink is due to not being soldered. And why I will be making it a priority to go thru the entire layout to solder and glue. The track in the mountain is the big question I will need to investigate.

John
The exposed track isn't where the tightest curves are. Hidden track is always a potential trouble spot.

Is there any access to the inside of the mountain?
 
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