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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just finished repainting a 224 with KRYLON lacquer in a rattle can. I thought I was getting flat black, but I grabbed satin instead. The 1684 was painted with a spray gun with flat black the coated with Dulcoat, that was my plan for 224, but oops.

I like the satin, what do you think?

All comments taken in the spirit offered.
 

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Bud,

I've used Krylon rattle can for most of my restoration work. I assume you're using their standard Indoor/Outdoor enamel, as opposed to a true lacquer ???

I've used gloss, satin, and flat ... depending upon the loco / project. Prewar tinplate mostly gloss; postwar 221 streamliner flat. I did one prewar 1688 in satin, and another in flat ... of those, I think I prefer the flat.

That said, this is all personal preference. The Krlyon satin has a lot of sheen to it ... much closer to gloss than a true flat. Very little difference between the Krlyon satin and the Krylon gloss, actually.

For a postwar shell (like the 224), I think the satin is a good choice. The shell certainly looks nice in your photo, and a nice match to the historical ...

http://www.tandem-associates.com/lionel/lionel_trains_224_loco.htm

Cheers,

TJ
 

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I think they both look nice.:D:thumbsup:

I wish you had a picture of the color before you dull coated the one.

I would have liked to see the difference.

Typing skills, I will go back and proof read.;)


Edit,
Typing skills look good, spelling one word Dulcoat should be Dullcoat?

But spell check says either is wrong.:rolleyes:

So your OK.:D:thumbsup:

Are you going to dullcoat the other?
 

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They both look nice to me wabashbud.Thanks for sharing,Don
 

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I have found that I really like the Krylon Semi-flat Black. It is not too flat, and not as shiny as the satin. I have done some spot painting on a 1668 shell that you can't even tell where the blend line is. I purchased mine from Advanced Auto Parts. I tried several types of satin, flat and in between, and top coated with dulcoat, but this is the best I have found to date.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Plandis:

Stripped with Easy Off Oven Cleaner, neutralized with vinegar and water, washed again with denatured alcohol dried for 24 hours then paint. Gave the shell about four light coats of lacquer and that's it. I am afraid to use a primer since it could cover up too much detail.

I think I'll keep the satin finish, seems to match the new MTH units finishes.

Bud
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
T-Man:

I did forget the steam chest but that's only because I haven't bought it yet. The original steam chest was damaged beyond repair and I haven't ordered any parts yet. I've got a long list of parts needed and probably order them from Jeff at Train Man. The engine only cost me $24.00 so you can imagine the condition it was in initially.

Bud
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
T-Man:

Yes, the cab floor is square in the back and it had chrome hand railings. Looks like its a 1945 except for the railings, what do you think?

According to the web site a 1945 had black railings and the 1946 had a round cab floor and chrome railings, I'm confused. Could be that sometime in the past the railings got changed but the railings on the engine when I got it were real beat up and I assumed they were original. The engine appeared to have been touched up and lots of parts were missing, anything is possible.

Post some pictures of your 224's, I'd love to see them.

Bud
 

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I also like a little sheen to the paint, and the Krylon Semi-Flat that I have found is about as close to original Lionel paint that I have found. I also use a thin coat of self etching primer to give it a good bond but not so much to cover details. I hope I didn't make it seem like I would then overcoat this with dulcote as that is not the case. I will try win a fight with my camera and post some photos of them. I am on a 1688/1668/1666/224/1684 craze lately with several of them into various stages of rebuild. As for a just to see if I can fix it project, I have had really good luck with using a product I found at Hobby Lobby that is a "form a mold" material. It works like a two part epoxy putty but it stays flexible. I have recast missing marker lamps, steps, and I have even recast a missing pilot with it using JB-Weld as the casting material. I figured what do I have to loose if the part is junk anyway, and I have had some good results.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Steve:

I have a 1666 that I cleaned up with new brushes and a good soaking in paint thinner but its going to retain its original paint. Santa brought me that engine in 1946 and it got lots of use. The 224 was on a table at an antique mall and I couldn't pass it up. Now to find a 2466W cheap.

Bud
 

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I think they both look nice.:D:thumbsup:

I wish you had a picture of the color before you dull coated the one.

I would have liked to see the difference.

Typing skills, I will go back and proof read.;)


Edit,
Typing skills look good, spelling one word Dulcoat should be Dullcoat?

But spell check says either is wrong.:rolleyes:

So your OK.:D:thumbsup:

Are you going to dullcoat the other?

OK I will take that as a no?:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well paint and new parts are about complete. The e-unit it out for overhaul and I'm waiting for the bell bracket. The tender is a 2466T with original finish and I'm looking for a 2466W. I think I will be satisfied with the satin finish on the engine.

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Gunrunnerjohn:

It'll run soon, first get the e-unit and install it, then paint the bell bracket and get it installed. Then it runs, fingers are crossed. There's always Murphy.

Bud
 
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