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Discussion Starter #1
544943
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Purchased a somewhat neglected but complete Cannonball set (no boxes) recently and the loco needs help.

It lights, and jumps a bit when I hit the direction button on the transformer, but that’s about it. All contact areas I could reach have been cleaned but I can see the commutator is dirty but can’t get to it.

I’ve looked hard but have been unable to find any info re disassembly procedures. Are the 2 screws marked with blue arrows the key?

Also, do I need to service the tender and if so how to disassemble? Hard tp tell from the pics, but all contact surfaces marked with blue arrow have been cleaned, both axel and contact.

I’ve taken a fancy to this set and would like to get it up and running. Thanks.
544945


544946
 

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Nice acquisition. Bookmark the site gilbertho.org. On the upper right side of the Index at the top of the page click on "Links." All the pages from the factory repair manual are there. It should provide all you need to get the Hudson running again. Post some pictures when it is up and running.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nice acquisition. Bookmark the site gilbertho.org. On the upper right side of the Index at the top of the page click on "Links." All the pages from the factory repair manual are there. It should provide all you need to get the Hudson running again. Post some pictures when it is up and running.
Thanks...I'll try right now.

Wow... this dosn't look like a quick or easy job! 😕
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I followed the instructions as gilbertho.org. and have been unable to remove the boiler front.

There is a gap completely around between the front and the loco body into which I can insert a good size screw driver blade but no matter how hard I twist, the front just won't release.

And when I remove the scew diver blade, the gap closes slightly as if the front was still attached to the body by a spring, or that a wire from the bulb is pulling the front back.

I've searched and searched but other than he above mentioned site, I can find no other info.

I really like this loco and would like to get it running and would appreciate any help you could offer.

Thanks.
 

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From the diagram it looks like the clip on the bottom of the boiler front that extends into the boiler needs to be lifted up to release it. This would be after removing the smoke tube and the front truck. Unfortunately I do not have one of the HO Hudsons to verify the procedure.
 

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I never knew AF had HO...! Anyway......
This may be way way off but; could the problem be the flanges are striking the simulated spike heads on the rails ?
 

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Your pain is still fresh in my mind... I received a used ten-wheeler this weekend which was shorting the track every time I applied throttle from DCC. I finally gave in and tore it down yesterday. It appears there was some gunk shorting the brushes but I was able to get it to start spinning under DC power and finally got it cleaned enough to run smoothly. It took me the entire afternoon to complete the job, and only about 20 minutes of actually working on the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Very frustrating. Front is loose all around the circle but just won't come out!!!!!

There is no room to insert any tool under the bottom tab. Was able to get a hooked tool that would catch on the boiler bottom front edge but prying did not work.

Thanks for replying. Would have acknowledged replies sooner but on some days I can't type cause of this damned parkinsons
 

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No problem, take all the time you need. From looking at the diagram it is not clear what is holding the smoke box front on the boiler after the pilot truck is unscrewed. If I were working on the engine, at this point I would drop the chassis to get the Smoke/Choo choo unit out. Then come (look) in from behind to see what is holding the boiler front in place. On the S gauge Gilbert steam engines we have the opposite problem. The boiler fronts are just a friction fit or spring clip and they tend to fall out when the engine is running.
 

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It's been several years since I took one apart. As I remember the boiler front can't be removed until it is loose from the frame. Did you remove the screw on the back of the cab? It is #36 on the parts diagram.
 

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I am guessing that removing screw 36 might allow the chassis to move out of position. It is worth a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good info from all. Thanks....will give it a go again this coming week. The dang thing has been sitting on my workbench for 3 weeks.
Nice acquisition. Bookmark the site gilbertho.org. On the upper right side of the Index at the top of the page click on "Links." All the pages from the factory repair manual are there. It should provide all you need to get the Hudson running again. Post some pictures when it is up and running.
No problem, take all the time you need. From looking at the diagram it is not clear what is holding the smoke box front on the boiler after the pilot truck is unscrewed. If I were working on the engine, at this point I would drop the chassis to get the Smoke/Choo choo unit out. Then come (look) in from behind to see what is holding the boiler front in place. On the S gauge Gilbert steam engines we have the opposite problem. The boiler fronts are just a friction fit or spring clip and they tend to fall out when the engine is running.
It's been several years since I took one apart. As I remember the boiler front can't be removed until it is loose from the frame. Did you remove the screw on the back of the cab? It is #36 on the parts diagram.


Belatedly (because of china virus restrictions) celebrating our 50th anniversary with extended family this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Disappointing end of story. It’s been quite some time since my last post but health issues had intervened.

Finally got the boiler front off and proceeded to clean brush holders. armature, etc. and lube where appropriate.

Put the assembly on my test track and noticed it was sitting at an odd angle. Long story short, the wheel on one side was loose on the axel. I unhooked the rod and was able to push in the wheel as far as it would go until it engaged the axel, but not by much.

Tested the unit with rod unattached and when power applied the motor would “jump” and immediately jam up. Upon further examination it seems that the axel is almost flush with the outside surface of the wheel on one side, but much “indented” on the other.

My guess is something internal is bent or out of line because even with the wheel removed, the motor would seize and not run.

For a moment I thought about using a punch to drive the axel toward the side of the loose wheel so it would have more surface to engage, but decided I probably would make things worse and ruin any parts that may be salvageable. Ditto with further disassembly.

At that point I gave up my efforts and reassembled everything and put the loco in storage hoping that maybe sometime in the future (if we can ever get rid of this china virus thing) I will find one at a train meet that runs good but has a bad/broken shell.

I hope so as I really like the looks of this loco. Thanks to all who commented.
 

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Thanks for posting the update. It sound like something is misaligned between the worm gear on the motor and the two helical gears it drives. It likely needs a complete disassembly and rebuild to get it running correctly again.
 

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I'd isolate that drive wheel (by unbolting it from both drive rods) and see if the motor runs without it. Then at least you've got your problem isolated. I imagine a longer axle can be made from appropriately sized piano wire and a wheel puller. I'm a sucker for old engines but you have to be patient with them.
 

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The Wabash Hudson is a one of the harder to find . Gilbert Hudson's show Up all the time on the bay either parts or complete. A lot of the parts are priced more than complete ones. I have found June thru August the best time to buy trains there
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Disappointing end of story. It’s been quite some time since my last post but health issues had intervened.

Finally got the boiler front off and proceeded to clean brush holders. armature, etc. and lube where appropriate.

Put the assembly on my test track and noticed it was sitting at an odd angle. Long story short, the wheel on one side was loose on the axel. I unhooked the rod and was able to push in the wheel as far as it would go until it engaged the axel, but not by much.

Tested the unit with rod unattached and when power applied the motor would “jump” and immediately jam up. Upon further examination it seems that the axel is almost flush with the outside surface of the wheel on one side, but much “indented” on the other.

My guess is something internal is bent or out of line because even with the wheel removed, the motor would seize and not run.

For a moment I thought about using a punch to drive the axel toward the side of the loose wheel so it would have more surface to engage, but decided I probably would make things worse and ruin any parts that may be salvageable. Ditto with further disassembly.

At that point I gave up my efforts and reassembled everything and put the loco in storage hoping that maybe sometime in the future (if we can ever get rid of this china virus thing) I will find one at a train meet that runs good but has a bad/broken shell.

I hope so as I really like the looks of this loco. Thanks to all who commented.
Thanks for posting the update. It sound like something is misaligned between the worm gear on the motor and the two helical gears it drives. It likely needs a complete disassembly and rebuild to get it running correctly again.
The Wabash Hudson is a one of the harder to find . Gilbert Hudson's show Up all the time on the bay either parts or complete. A lot of the parts are priced more than complete ones. I have found June thru August the best time to buy trains there
Amflyer: I think you nailed it. More than I have the knowledge to repair and best left to others with proper experiencec.

No ebay for me so I just keep haunting flea markets and meets.

Not to worry, at a young age I learned there is no physical object like a train I can't live without. 😀

Besides, it looks good on the shelf.
 
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