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A Noob's First layout

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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
A Noob's First layout (Update)Page 2

Hello all. First off my name is Brandon and thank you in advance for taking the time to read my post. I wanted to post some pics of my second attempt at benchwork for my layout and get some opinions. My first attempt was a 4x8 which looked pretty big untill I tried to lay track with 22" radius curves. Didn't leave me a whole lotta room for much else. So I tore that apart and designed this. It is 16ft long by 6 feet wide. It has cutouts in the middle so I can reach everything. The width on each side of the cutout is 2ft wide and the cutout itself is 2 ft wide making up the six ft width. The end sections are 30" deep and the middle section is 60" since i can get to it from either side. Here are some pics let me know what you guys think good or bad :) I hope the pics are not too big. Like I said, NOOB!

By flatire1256 at 2010-06-02

By flatire1256 at 2010-06-02

By flatire1256 at 2010-06-02

By flatire1256 at 2010-06-02

By flatire1256 at 2010-06-02

By flatire1256 at 2010-06-02

By flatire1256 at 2010-06-02

By flatire1256 at 2010-06-02
 
tjcruiser

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#2 ·
Hi Brandon,

Welcome to the forum, and thanks much for posting the beginnings of your layout setup. The design looks ambitious with lots of exciting space / potential. A couple of misc comments ...

1. Via your 22" radius comment, I assume you're talking about an HO layout ???

2. You're smart to consider arm-reach access in an "oversized" layout depth. Some people accomplish this with full walk-around setups, or necked-down dogbone configurations. You're "pop through" design can work, especially if it's critical space constraints dictate that you're back run abuts the room's wall. That said, the empty voids in the middle of the layout might look a bit -- well -- "empty" with your final decorated scenery, whatever that might be. Might it be possible for you to fill in the voids with a REMOVABLE lightweight cover that could be decorated with scenery, but easily pushed up or hinged down (or similar) for mid-layout access? The scenery on this section could be minimal (some grass, trees, etc.) without having to have the complication of trains/track/etc.

3. The general construction of the "main deck" of the layout looks well engineered and strong.

4. While I see that you added 45-deg corner braces to the top of your legs, I think the support to keep them "in column" is minimal, and suspect that they run a strong risk of accidentally getting kicked back/in at the bottom. I would suggest that you tie each "column grouping" of legs together with horizontal cross supports located a few inches above the floor, and then add some new 45-deg corner braces to the tops of the legs oriented SIDEWAYS as well. Together, these will stiffen up the grouping of legs considerably, yet leave you access "down the middle" under the table for your table-top voids.

5. (And perhaps most important) ... Do you have a track plan already in mind? I'd suggest developing this hand-in-hand with the table design/construction.

6. I can't tell from the pics if the back of your table top actually abuts the wall. I noticed an electrical outlet about 10" above the table surface. You should consider how you would run a primary power cord from this outlet down to the underside of the table, and from there to a power strip, surge protector, etc and to the main power bank of your layout. I.e., don't push that back horizontal joist all the way to the wall and deck over the top, blocking you out from access to the outlet.

7. Your pics are super clear and plenty big ... a bit too big, perhaps. (Forces left-right pan to read your comments on my computer.) Maybe downsize to no more than 100 pixels wide next time?

Again, great to have you onboard. I hope you'll find something helpful in the comments above.

Regards,

TJ
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
TJ thank you for your quick reply.

1. Yes I am talking about a HO layout. That would be a important bit of info.(oops).
2. Due to the fact that I had to leave room for the boss's car(wife) I had to butt table up to wall. Therfore had to make popups. I like your idea for removable pop ups. Perhaps I will make some out of 1" foam with some angle brackets for it to sit on.
3. Thanks
4. Was also considering bracing the bottom of the legs. Glad to see im not the only one that was thinking that.
5. Somewhat. I have designed one on the program that atlas offers. I cant make up my mind though. I change it about everyday. I just know i could not do anywhere near what I wanted with the 4x8.
6. Yes the table does butt up to the wall. I was thinking of notching it out and running chord down wall and under table. Then maybe hide with a piece of removable scenery.
7. I will make the pics a little smaller next time :)

Once again thanks for the reply. Your comments were exactly what I was looking for. Gonna need all the help I can get.
 
tjcruiser

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#4 ·
Re: layout design software ... many user here enjoy using the AnyRail software ... you can download a starter-version for free.

Re: table/wall ... So does your ply abut the wall, but the 2x4 joist is offset from the wall a bit? If so, notch is easy way to go. If ply and joist are flush with each other, maybe put some small spacers between joist and wall to provide gap for electrical cord. Also, in either case, maybe screw the joist to studs in the wall at a few location for extra table rigidity?

Good luck!

TJ
 
Reckers

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#7 ·
*L* Those are the best ones! I'm slowly assembling a table in my basement, but it's a struggle. I had a protracted cold/sinus infection with lots of drainage; I ran down Saturday morning ready to throw it all together and discovered a problem. Exended bending at the waist stimulated the flow and I was afflicted with gagging and nausea. *L* I never thought I'd get held up by green goo! So, I had to content myself with buying some more lumber and bringing it home. I'll try again next weekend. Good luck with yours, and keep us up on how it's going!
 
shaygetz

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#9 ·
You could have a brawl on that and not rattle a wheelset...:thumbsup:

I try to keep my pix at 640 pixels wide...when I'm braggin' I push 950...:thumbsup::D

"When the rivet counters invade...save the stereo..."

I take it you're going to have a helix down to the mine were the dump truck awaits orders? ;)
 
T-Man

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#11 ·
I quickly scanned the picture and noticed the center 2 by 4 joist are only toed in on the top and bottom. If they are not nailed through from the intersecting board then they need to be side nailed.

I guess my question is how much of a newbee are you with carpentry skills?

The ends should of been one piece, instead of three. Or you could of made three boxes and joined them. This would be great if you ever wanted to move it. It would be sectional.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
T-Man

Im a complete noob. This is the first table I have ever tried to build. I am not a carpenter by any means. My original plan was to make the 3 center pieces complete frames and bolt them to sides so they would be removable and i could take apart table at a later date if i need to. But to tell you the truth by the time i got to that point I was tired and just decided to screw it in like i did. the only boards that are toe screwed are the ones on the ends. I was unable to screw through the corner brace the leg and the end board. that is why they are toed. Plus the fact I had allready went over budget on table and didn't want to buy a bunch of bolts. I figure if I ever need to move it I can still move it in a 16ft. trailer. It will only get moved if i move to another house. Thanks for the pointers. That is why i posted because i am not a carpenter and wanted some pointers.
 
T-Man

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#13 · (Edited)
To support, just get some corner metal brackets from home depot. That way it will stay together. How do you get a 16 foot table out of a door? HA! OO a garage door. I was misled by a picture. A six foot span isn't too bad. If you use a lot a of screws with the plywood. Use the brackets if you need them.
Anyway glad to help you did ask


My Dad taught me well.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah if I ever have to move it I hope it will be to a bigger garage or a shop building with AC! I may have to hold off on working on layout till fall. It has been in the 90's here in oklahoma and is only getting hotter. At least that will give me some time to aquire more track and scenery.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Bman

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#18 ·
Wow, this is the first that I have seen of this post. Looking real good. It's kinda crazy since I too had a 4x8 and decided to go bigger. I went with the same 6'x16' dimensions and the frame of my table looks, not exactly like but very similar to yours. To boot, my name is Brandon. Lot of similarities:thumbsup:.

keep up the good work

bman
 
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flatire1256
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