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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchesed an acrylic model by CMR (Custom Model Railroads) and I am unsure what kind of glue is ok to use. With that said I did conduct an experiment with several brands and types. As of now I have not noticed and changes ex. metling, warping, discoloration, ect.

Testors Model Glue (Red Tube) - Seem to work fine

Tamya Thin (Oragne Jar) - Held great bu took longer than plastic to dry

E600 - Hard to apply but held the best. Came out fast and thick

Has anyone used the on acrylic models before and if so whats the long term affect. Are there anyother that will work better. I don't want to ruin a $150 model just because I use the right glue.

They also say to use krylon spray paint. Can I use other acrylic paint? ex. testors, tamya, fine touch, model master?
 

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I've begun using a lot of the Harbor Freight knock off of
super glue gel. You can get a multitube pack for
around 5.00. Applied sparingly with a tooth pick or
some such, it will set quickly and bond completely.

Always test any paint on an obscure part of any plastic
you intend to use it on. Some claim to be plastic
friendly but will mar the surface.

Tamiya spray acrylic is plastic safe and makes a flaw free
matte finish.

I have had the 'glue sniffer' stuff dry and release
on some plastics in the past, tho it's been better
lately.

Don
 

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Acrylic? These tend to be flexible, slippery plastics. Are you sure it isn't styrene or polyester resin? Or maybe acetal plastic?

I'd go with Don's advice and use cyanoacrylate (CA), commonly called super glue. I'm not hard up on the "go cheap" rule -- I buy a 2 oz container of Gorilla Glue (the CA version, not the brown stuff), Sinbad, Jet, or Zap. They all work well. Buy a pack of disposable applicator tips. After spreading the glue, pull the applicator tip off and throw it away, then wipe the bottle with a rag moistened in acetone, and those big containers last for a long, long time. Some companies sell various viscosities; I tend to like the thicker stuff. You can also buy accelerants to spray on after you position the parts to get them to cure faster.

Basically, though, if you've tried other adhesives, and they cured without damaging the plastic (48 hrs, to be sure), then they're fine to use. Acetal plastics can also be quite slippery, and many times adhesion is improved by roughing up the parts to be joined with 400 grit sandpaper before applying glue.

Don is right about testing SOLVENT-based paints before you use them, but I've never heard of an acrylic paint damaging plastic before. Again, test before use, and then use whatever works best for you. I believe that Krylon is a solvent based paint, so you're probably fine. Sometimes manufacturers recommend products to keep their lawyers happy, or because they own the other brand as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for saying CA is super glue. Never would have known that. And yes I just verified on CMR website...

"Kit features laser cut acrylic parts, tanks, piping and signs, everything you see is included in the kit (rolling stock not included). Tab and slot construction, detailed instructions and photos help with assembly."
 

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Thanks for saying CA is super glue. Never would have known that. And yes I just verified on CMR website...

"Kit features laser cut acrylic parts, tanks, piping and signs, everything you see is included in the kit (rolling stock not included). Tab and slot construction, detailed instructions and photos help with assembly."
And yet thousands, probably millions don't know that, so forgive me for not knowing you weren't one of them. I have personally participated in several threads in which people recommed CA, only to have someone either ask if super glue would work, or recommend it separately from CA.

I've never heard of a model referred to as acrylic before. That's a new one on me.
 

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I've begun using a lot of the Harbor Freight knock off of
super glue gel. You can get a multitube pack for
around 5.00. Applied sparingly with a tooth pick or
some such, it will set quickly and bond completely.

Always test any paint on an obscure part of any plastic
you intend to use it on. Some claim to be plastic
friendly but will mar the surface.

Tamiya spray acrylic is plastic safe and makes a flaw free
matte finish.

I have had the 'glue sniffer' stuff dry and release
on some plastics in the past, tho it's been better
lately.

Don

I grabbed a five pack of the HF glue last time I was there. I found every tube had leaked out and the glue containers were hard and dried. I am sure that would not always be the case just look at what you are buying. I will look closer next time.
 

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Spray painting

SBRacing;

Krylon and other brands of spray paint were traditionally lacquer-based paints. However, due to safety and environmental concerns, many spray paint cans now contain enamel(turpentine-based) paint.
Used AS DIRECTED (spraying from a foot or more away) neither type should dissolve or pit the surface of your model. However, spray cans by nature, spray their paint like a sawed off shotgun sprays buck shot. Hard to control where it goes!
If you plan to paint more than one model, especially at $150.00 apiece, I would strongly recommend buying an airbrush. You can get an airbrush and compressor for about what you paid for the model. Properly cared for they should last a lifetime.
I have two airbrushes, both bought from Harbor Freight tool Co. One is a Pashe brand dual action and the other a simple cheap single action type. While the dual action gives very fine control of the paint area, I find I use the little cheap one for most painting.
With an airbrush, you have your choice of model paints and excellent control of where the paint goes.

Traction Fan
 

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I grabbed a five pack of the HF glue last time I was there. I found every tube had leaked out and the glue containers were hard and dried. I am sure that would not always be the case just look at what you are buying. I will look closer next time.
Sorry about that. I've had better luck with HF gel super glue. Might have had
extreme temperature exposure.

Don
 
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