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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am well underway in the restoration of my childhood American Flyer 302AC. I really dove a little deeper into the project than I intended, however, the elaborate deconstruction and reconstruction has taught me a lot about the builds of these trains. You can follow my entire build here.
 

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I looked at the material contained in the provided link. That is a great collection of pictures and commentary. One thing you did not mention is the date stamp inside the boiler shell, almost all Gilbert steam engines have one. This will tell us the production date if the stamp is still readable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I looked at the material contained in the provided link. That is a great collection of pictures and commentary.
Thanks for the kind words!

One thing you did not mention is the date stamp inside the boiler shell

Unfortunately, neither of my boiler shells (300 and 302AC) had a date stamp, which I thought was weird. The shells were definitely not repainted.
 

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I am sure you will be delighted when your project is completed. I think these old steamers
will still be running when we are all long gone. I have learned a lot in 3 years of messing with these. Once you do your first one the rest will be easier. The nice thing is all parts are still to be had. And not a great cost. Post pics of your progress.

The date stamps were usually just month number and last 2 digits of the year. Like 7-51. I have a 282 that the motor
ran very very hot till I fixed it. It ran so hot it scorched the under side of the shell. Right where the date stamp probably was.
 

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Looking forward to the pictures of your rebuild. Neat link you referenced, I built 100's of models growing up and still have some kits around here that have never been started. If you're interested in real planes as well as the models, here's a cool site all about "Warbirds" and their restorations.
http://warbirdsnews.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I am making steady progress with all the innards. I soldered for the first time in my life and it went pretty smoothly once I got past soldering on the truck rivets. I am assuming that task would have been a little easier with a bigger iron tip...but the connections are solid and everything works as expected. However, I did have one big set back. While I was trying to detach an old wire soldered to the Field the inner wire broke off. This was a part that I bought off eBay because my other two Fields have the same inner wire issue. I am thinking about learning to rewind my own fields....I am not adding any more Fields to my inner wire graveyard!

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I have rewound the field wire. The wire on bottom of the coil broke. Not long enough to resolder. It was not bad. Best to unwind the whole thing. Try to lay winds as neat as you can. You will not be able to be as neat as Gilbert did. You will end up with some wire not
being able to use. If you put all the wire back on, the armature will hit the coil. Back off some wire till armature can spin without hitting the wire. I ended up with at least 10 feet of wire I could not use. Does not seem to be a problem. This motor runs as good as any of mine. I had an extra coil in case my rewind did not work. But it did work. Try it.


I would say notice which direction the wire is wound. I did use the old wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks guys!
I have rewound the field wire. The wire on bottom of the coil broke. Not long enough to resolder. It was not bad. Best to unwind the whole thing. Try to lay winds as neat as you can. You will not be able to be as neat as Gilbert did. You will end up with some wire not
being able to use. If you put all the wire back on, the armature will hit the coil. Back off some wire till armature can spin without hitting the wire. I ended up with at least 10 feet of wire I could not use. Does not seem to be a problem. This motor runs as good as any of mine. I had an extra coil in case my rewind did not work. But it did work. Try it.


I would say notice which direction the wire is wound. I did use the old wire.
I just went on Amazon and picked up a spool of enameled 24 gauge wire.....we will see how it goes!
 

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Your 302AC should have an XA9569/XA11077 armature with clear insulation (not purple.) These armatures were factory wound using 27ga wire. The windings were counter clockwise and they were layered, not random. There were a total of 75 windings/pole. A few less will not matter. The DC resistance of a winding should be 1.5 Ohms. The purple armatures were random wound at the factory and they varied from 73 to 77 turns.
Only the field used 24ga wire. I recommend against using 24ga wire on the armature.
 

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The original post said "armature field" so for some reason my mind focused on the first word. The field uses 24ga wire, it is carefully layer wound at the factory.There would be between 187 and 206 turns in 9 layers in the factory winding with a DC resistance of 1.2 to 1.4 Ohms. The thickness is 16/32". This is much easier to wind than an armature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
The original post said "armature field" so for some reason my mind focused on the first word. The field uses 24ga wire, it is carefully layer wound at the factory.There would be between 187 and 206 turns in 9 layers in the factory winding with a DC resistance of 1.2 to 1.4 Ohms. The thickness is 16/32". This is much easier to wind than an armature.
I also read that it is 40 feet of wire, which for me, might be a safer bet to figure out ahead of time. I worry I would get lost in the counting. The 9 layers is helpful....I wish I would have paid attention to that when I was unwinding it. However, I could just dive into my broke bottom wire graveyard and unwind another! Thanks again for the info!
 

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I have not seen the 40' length for the field winding before. Using 200 turns on the field, 40' is 2.4"/turn, sounds like it is in the ballpark.
Looks to me like a tender shell someone drilled two holes in.
 
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