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Discussion Starter #1
Hey All,

Picked up a 308 for 20 bucks. Just needs a good cleaning and lube.

My question is that it does not have a jack panel but is connected by a wire harness. My maintenance manual shows a jack panel, but there is not one and it doesn't look like it ever had one.

Thanks,
 

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I would think you could add a jack panel. I bet the holes are there for one.
WOW!!! A 308, don't see many of them. Congrats.
 

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According to Gilbert Gallery, 308s made in 1956 only. Choo choo in boiler
but no smoke unit. By picture I could not see how wires were connected.
 

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The 308 was only made in 1956 and had choo choo only, no smoke. AFAIK, they were all direct wired. You can probably add a smoke element if you get the missing parts for it. The chamber is there, but the inside is empty. It was offered in the 5610T set in 1956. It should have pul-mor on the front drivers. Most likely an error in the manual.

Mopac types faster than I do!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info guys. I didnt know they existed until I saw it. I'll post some pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here's a picture. It has the choo-choo only in it that works. However, the pul-mor is on the rear drivers, not the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So it looks to have been re-wired at some point. Thinking about adding a jack panel to make things easier, but keep it as choo-choo only.
 

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A jack would make things easier. I am not fond of direct wired locos. I have a few. I am not a purist so I am not above changing things around.
 

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It looks nice.
In the case of these 1 year models, are there stats somewhere on how many were produced?
I'm thinking that yearly production numbers for all AF stuff might have been kept. It's amazing how much stuff is still around being enjoyed.
 

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A nice 308.
To answer the question all the factory production records were destroyed post bankruptcy in 1967. No one knows for sure how may of any product number were sold. Educated guesses have been made in the past.
The best compilation of relative rarity was an undertaking by Bob Bubeck and Dave Garrigues in a book published by TM Books. The 308 is assigned a rarity of (3). That means they are hard to find, but not truly rare. Some other (3) engines are the 295, 315 and the 405.
 

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I too have wondered about production numbers. But have not found any. Like you said there are bunches still around. Production is probably higher than we think.
 

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Here's a picture. It has the choo-choo only in it that works. However, the pul-mor is on the rear drivers, not the front.
I'm a little late to the party on comments but that is a nice looking 308 you have there. Gives me hope that I might find one after all. A 308 is on my list of "wants". I have several in the 300 numbering list but no 308. Since that was a one year production locomotive, they are hard to find. I have gotten to the point that I would buy one running or not! I'll keep lookin'.

Kenny
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got it apart. Looks like someone re-wired it to bypass the reverse unit. I'm going to go ahead and re-wire it and use a jack panel. I don't like the direct wired engines.

Shell says it was manufactured March of 1956. The shell has some damage. Anyone know how to repair the studs that are cracked and broken?
 

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I used JB Weld to repair the holes/studs. Mine were broken worse than yours.
One half inch of some studs were broke off. Built them up and carefully drilled
new holes. They work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I used JB Weld to repair the holes/studs. Mine were broken worse than yours.
One half inch of some studs were broke off. Built them up and carefully drilled
new holes. They work fine.
How did you do it? I thought of using a plastic straw to extend the broken stud and then tap it.
 

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kelpie, I have repaired many broken posts using a large plastic drinking straw as you mention. I break away any loose plastic hanging onto the post, cut a straw to a length slightly longer than the post, slit it lengthwise, placing it around the post, loosely tape the straw to the shell (secure but room for JB Weld to flow onto the surface of the "good" part of the post), fill the straw with JB Weld, and stick a round toothpick into the JB Weld deep enough to extend into the remaining threaded hole in the post. After the JB Weld is thoroughly set, I remove the straw, break the toothpick, file the repaired post to its proper length, center punch the toothpick, drill a pilot hole and then drill with the proper sized bit.

swede
 
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