[alaft61ri]

I see what your saying about the fingers I would clean the drum and go from there.

 

[AmFlyer]

That sounds high but will not prevent the engine from running.

 

[Joeguy]

Well, kinda seems like im outa luck till i get a power supply for it then, never knew they costed this much seems like the cheapest one that will work is still like 65 bucks. Could try to fix my old one but it looks like someone cut up the old cord and its kinda sketchy.

 

[AmFlyer]

Tested and working 100W 4B's sell for $25, shipping varies.

 

[flyernut]

After you pull your hair out, send it to me, my offer still applies.

 

[Joeguy]

After you pull your hair out, send it to me, my offer still applies.

Ha, will do. I just really like fixing stuff but it is starting to get past my ability i think. I need a power thing either way so ill get one and when that ineveitably fails to work ill be talking to you.

 

[Joeguy]

You guys think a 35W one would run it? Cant find any big ones that are tested working on ebay.

 

[AmFlyer]

yes, it will work.

 

[Joeguy]

Is it easy to put a new wall plug wire on the transformer? I took my old one apart and it looks like i just need to solder the 2 wires and thats it. It also seems like polarity wont matter i think?

 

[AmFlyer]

Yes it is easy and polarity does not matter. It is good practice to include a strain relief item. Two ways to do it. There are inserts that lock the cord in place, if one was not used originally it may be difficult to add one. The easiest way is to separate the the ends of the cord and tie them in a knot prior to connecting and soldering them.

 

[Joeguy]

Well good news, the train moves now atleast. Got some other issues though it sounds kinda rough and also it shoots sparks out of the conductive wheels under the tender, i tried to clean em up a bit but they are still kinda pitted and don't look great. Should i just go to town on em with some more sandpaper to keep cleaning em up or what do you guys think is goin on.

 

[flyernut]

Well good news, the train moves now atleast. Got some other issues though it sounds kinda rough and also it shoots sparks out of the conductive wheels under the tender, i tried to clean em up a bit but they are still kinda pitted and don't look great. Should i just go to town on em with some more sandpaper to keep cleaning em up or what do you guys think is goin on.

I don't use sand-paper, I use a bright boy, or I use my dremel with a polishing pad and Mothers Mag polish. It really shines them up. You can also use "flitz" and anything similar. Make sure the track is clean. If all else fails, you can purchase new wheels.

 

[Joeguy]

Alright ill do that then, you think that's why its sparking like that is from that bad connection? The track is also sorta dirty so ill give everything a once over.

 

[flyernut]

Alright ill do that then, you think that's why its sparking like that is from that bad connection? The track is also sorta dirty so ill give everything a once over.

Start with the track..You can use a scotch-brite pad or a bright-boy, or even some very fine sand-paper, somewhere around 600 or higher. I alway have 1500 or 2000 grit paper on hand.The 1500 or 2000 will load up faster so clean the track first with some non-flammable CRC squirted on a pad, and then sand the track with the scotch-brite or whatever suits your fancy..On the wheels, carefully remove them from the trucks. I have scotch-brite pads mounted on a 1/8 dremel arbor, and I use that to get rid of all the crud on the wheels and then use the polishing pad. While the wheels are off, polish the copper pick-up strips, it won't hurt. I then use some CRC on a pipe cleaner and clean out the axle holes. When clean put a small dab on dielectric grease in the hole and re-assemble..All this may or may not help with the sparking, but we're eliminating anything that is wrong with the currents path..Also polish the axles where the copper strips ride.If after all this, replace the wheels, not much more you can do..On a 303, the wheels will be sintered metal, you can use the brass pick-up wheels, they seem to work better. Just remember, use the correct length axle for the sintered wheel truck. On tenders with a link coupler and sheet metal trucks,, the axles will be shorter than the sintered wheel trucks..Hope this all helps.

 

[AmFlyer]

One more item to check when you are done with Flyernut's list of actions. I find that some of the wheels are out of gauge after removing and replacing them in the trucks. Use a dime between the backs of the wheels to make sure they are correctly gauged. When correct they make the best contact with the rails.

 

[Jesse_Todd]

Good morning, and welcome to the forum. Your initial diagnoses was correct, the clicking sound is from the e-unit or reverse unit, in the tender, at least that's working.About the wheels, not sure what you're talking about. The easiest way to confirm a problem is to remove the shells from the tender and loco, a very easy process and you can't get into any trouble. Once removed, spray some CRC tuner/cleaner on the motor and e-unit and let it dry. Don't get any cleaner on the knuckle coupler, it will eat it up. There is a CRC plastic safe spray cleaner, but it's flammable, I use the non-flammable version. After squirting the cleaner in both spots, let it dry. Place the loco/tender on the tracks and give it some power. The tuner/cleaner should have awakened the units, and it should run. That being said, it's time for a rebuild, all parts that are needed are available through Jeff Kane at the Train Tender..Bear in mind, ALL the parts dealers are about 2-3 weeks behind in getting your parts to you.The brushes you need are part #PA 9603, and while you're there, get replacement brush springs, part #PA10757-A. The brushes are the shouldered type, and the springs are the coiled type.This will get you started on getting your loco running. If it still doesn't run, we can walk you through a more extensive procedure to get you running. The 303 is a direct-wired engine/tender combo. It has smoke, head-light, and choo choo, and the best part is that it comes with pul-mor tires, giving you great traction. These tires are also available on ebay. I can send you the sellers name. He's been very good to me, and I do recommend him..If all else fails, send it to me and I'll do the work for you, no charge, only parts cost and shipping both ways..I have all the parts on hand needed to get this great little loco going for you. If you want to do it yourself, all of us here on the forum will be glad to help you. After 5 posts, you are allowed to post pictures which are a great help to us. Hope I helped..and welcome to the forum...Loren

I just brought down my late father’s 303 because I’m wanting to set up a Christmas set up for my dad. I have power going to the motor, and we’re going in reverse and not forward. Not sure why that’s the case. My dad didn’t really take care of it this ol girl needs some loving that I don’t have the knowledge to do. Any recommendations?

 

[AmFlyer]

Welcome to the MTF! Pretty much everything we can say is already in this thread. When an engine runs in only one direction, the first thing to check is to make sure the reverse unit is not locked. The lever under the tender has two positions. One allows the RU to cycle through F-N-R-N, the other position locks it in the last used direction.

 

[flyernut]

If, after trying everything that has been mentioned and it still doesn't run, send it out to me. Pay the shipping both ways and the parts, if needed, I'll take care of the labor. If local, come on over and we can play fix them trains. And welcome to the forum, very nice people here!!!!!

 

[T-Man]

The important thing is that you are planning ahead. The sooner you get it fixed the better.

 

[Jesse_Todd]

I got it going, but I do need to replace the 4 copper fingers in the tender, they’re holding on by sheer will. Haha is there a good reliable place to pick some new ones up?